CHAP. II. About half an hour after our arrival, the worthy old Armenian came home; and throwing himself at full length upon the diván, began to fan his face with a bunch of coloured feathers, while his secretary opened and read to him our letters. Refreshments were instantly served, and pipes brought by his attendants: soon after this he proposed that we should accompany him to the Governor's. As we descended he shewed to us his beautiful garden, filled with standard apricot-trees laden with ripe fruit, and our wine, as he said, for dinner, already cooling in marble fountains, beneath the shade of orange, citron, lemon, fig, vine, and pomegranate trees. He had one variety of the apricot which bore fruit with a smooth shining skin like our common nectarine. All these trees, in the gardens of Nicotia, equal in size the apple-trees of our English orchards, and their branches are supported by props to prevent their breaking by the load of fruit which covers them. Perhaps it was from Cyprus (where this plant appears to be indigenous) that the apricot-tree was first carried to Italy. Its Oriental appellation, Prunus or Malus Armeniaca, would assign to it an Eastern origin; but its native land has not yet been determined. Pallas found it in a wild state among the Caucasian mountains. It was known in Italy in the time II. Turkish of Dioscorides; whence it was brought to England CHAP. by a French priest of the name of Wolfe, who was gardener to King Henry the Eighth'. Thunberg describes it as a large spreading tree in Japan; but it seems to flourish in greater perfection in Cyprus than in any other country. We entered the court-yard of the Governor's Visit to the palace, and observed several beautiful horses, Governor. richly caparisoned, standing without any attendants, each fastened by a chain to its fore leg, and to a spike in the ground. This custom exists, as a kind of parade, in almost all the palace yards of Pashas who are governors, and are called Mussuleem2. We were conducted first into the chamber of the Dragoman, or interpreter, where we found a crowd of persons assembled upon business. Here again pipes were brought, while our firmáns were examined, and some questions put, concerning the state of affairs in Egypt, the death of the Emperor PAUL, and the victory gained by Nelson over the Danes. We were then led through several (1) See Hakluyt's Voyages, vol. II. p. 161. Lond. 1599. (2) The Dutch ambassadors from the East-India Company to China, in the middle of the seventeenth century, observed the same custom of exhibiting state-horses in the court of the Emperor's palace at PEKIN See Nieuhoff's Account of the Embassy, as published by Ogilby, p. 126. Lond. 1669. CHAP. II. passages, until we came to the Governor's apartment, who having heard our names and business, desired us to be seated upon the diván opposite to him. As this man affected all that haughtiness with which Franks were formerly received, in times when the English name was not quite so much respected as it is now in Turkey, we were particular in noting the ceremony attending our visit. The custom shewn in the reception of strangers, is the same over all the Ottoman empire; and in all countries the punctilios of hospitality are best exercised by proud men. It is only our equals who lay aside ceremony1'. The Governor of Cyprus was no Pasha; nor had he any other rank than what his wealth had procured in his temporary station at Nicotia ; (1) Persons of enlightened understanding, whatsoever be their rank, know very well that real greatness is best displayed by affability and condescension. An Italian physician at Naples, a man of the world, who had studied human nature well, and travelled much, gave this advice to a young practitioner, who was beginning his career: "If thou be called," said he," to attend a man of real high birth, with an accomplished mind, throw thyself into the best chair in his room, and make thyself at home with him: but if the summons be to a new made dignitary, to one of newly-acquired wealth, or to a tradesman who has retired from business, stand, till he bids thee sit, and then take the humblest scat that offers." see II. nor's Reception of the Au thor. an honour annually purchased of the Capudan CHAP. Pasha, as before stated, by the highest bidder. One short year of dominion, wholly dedicated to the exercise of a vain ostentation, and to unbounded rapacity, was therefore all that awaited him. in return for the money by which the post had been obtained. It was truly amusing, therefore, to his ostentatious The Govermanner of displaying his rank. Our credentials were of a very superior nature; because, in addition to our firmân, we carried with us letters from the Capudan Pasha, and the Commander-in-chief both of the fleet and of the army. At sight of these, however, his newmade Excellency affected to turn up his nose, muttering between his teeth the expressive word Djowr with considerable emphasis, and taking up the skirts of his pelisse (as our venerable friend the Armenian kneeled before him, to act as our interpreter) that they might not be defiled even by the touch of an infidel. This insolence was the more remarkable, as the Turks, unless they be in a state of open rebellion, generally respect the Grand Signior's firmán even the haughty Pasha of Acre always made sign of obeisance when it was produced. (2) A term used by the Turks to express either a Dog or an Infidel. VOL. IV. F CHAP. 11. Oriental mode of entertaining guests. After thus endeavouring to make us feel our inferiority, he next strove to dazzle our senses with his splendour and greatness. and greatness. Having clapped his hands', a swarm of attendants, most magnificently dressed, came into the room, bearing gilded goblets filled with lemonade and sorbet, which they presented to us. A high priest of the Dervishes then entered, and prostrated himself before the Governor, touching his lips with his fingers, crossing his hands upon his breast, and raising his thumbs afterwards to his ears. All these marks of reverence ended, he rose and took his station upon the divân, on the left side of the Governor. Next came a fresh party of slaves, bringing long pipes of jasmine wood with amber heads, to all the party; these were suddenly followed by another host of myrmidons in long white vests, having white turbans on their heads, who covered us with magnificent mantles of sky-blue silk, bespangled and embroidered with gold. They also presented to us preserved fruits and other sweetmeats; snatching away the embroidered mantles, (1) This method of summoning slaves to the presence of their master is common all over the Turkish empire. (2) Among the Romans, the master of the house often piqued himself upon furnishing his guests with magnificent habits. They consisted of a kind of loose mantles, like those of CYPRUS. Martial reproaches Luscus with having more than once carried off two from the |