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cassock. His turban was also white. Neither
cushion nor carpet decorated the naked boards .
of his divån. In his girdle he wore a poignard
set with diamonds; but this he apologized for
exhibiting, saying it was his badge of office, as
Governor of Acre, and therefore could not be
laid aside. Having ended his orders to the
engineer, we were directed to sit upon the end
of the diván ; and Signor Bertocino, his drago-
man, kneeling by his side, he prepared to hear
the cause of our visit.

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The conversation began by a request from the Pasha, that English Captains, in future, entering the bay of Acre, would fire only one gun, rather as a signal, than as a salute, upon their arrival.“ There can be no good reason," said he, “ for such a waste of gunpowder, in ceremony between friends.

Besides," he added, “ I am too old to be pleased with ceremony: among forty-three Pashas of three tails, now living in Turkey, I am the senior. My occupations are consequently, as you see, very important,” taking out a pair of scissars, and beginning to cut figures in paper, which was his constant employment when strangers were present; these he afterwards stuck


the wainscot. “I shall send each of you away, said he, “with good proof of old Djezzar's

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ingenuity. There,” addressing himself to Cap-
tain Culverhouse, and offering a paper cannon,
“there is a symbol of your profession :” and
while the author was explaining to the Captain
the meaning of this singular address, he offered
to him a paper flower, denoting, as he said,
"a florid interpretation of blunt speech.As often
as we endeavoured to introduce the business of
our visit, he affected to be absorbed in these
trifling conceits, or turned the conversation by
allegorical sayings, to whose moral we could
find no possible clue. His whole discourse was
in parables, proverbs, truisms, and Oriental
apologues. One of his tales lasted nearly an
hour, about a man who wished to enjoy the
peaceful cultivation of a small garden, without
consulting the lord of the manor whenever he
removed a tulip; alluding, perhaps, to his
situation with reference to the Grand Signior.
There was evidently much cunning and deep
policy in his pretended frivolity. Apparently
occupied in regulating the shape of a watch-
paper with his scissars, he was all the while
deeply attentive to our words, and even to our
looks, anxious to discover whether there were
any urgency in the nature of our visit ; and
certainly betraying as much ostentation in the
seeming privations to which he exposed himself,

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as he might have done by the most stately
magnificence. He was desirous of directing the
attention of his visitors to the homeliness of
his mode of living : “If I find,” said he, “ only
bread and water in another world, I shall have
no cause of complaint, because I have been
accustomed to such fare all my days; but
those who have fared sumptuously in this life,
will, I suspect, be much disappointed in the
next.” We spoke of the camp of his cavalry,
then stationed near the town, and of the great
preparations he seemed to be making against
the Druses, and other rebel Arabs, with whom
he was at war. “ It is not,” said he, “ the part
of a wise man to despise his enemy, whatsoever
shape he may assume, If he be but a pismire,
there is no reason why he should be permitted
to creep upon your cheek while you are sleep-
ing.” We found we had touched a delicate
string : he believed these dissensions had been
excited in his dominions by Sir Sidney Smith, to
divert him from the possibility of assisting the
French, by attacking the Vizier's army in its
march through Syria ; and was much incensed
while he complained to us of this breach of
confidence. “I ate,” said he, “ bread and salt
with that man;

we were together as sworn
friends. He did what he pleased here. I lent


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him my staf'; he released all my prisoners, CHAP.
many of whom were in my debt, and never paid
me a pará. What engagement with him have I
violated? What promises have I not fulfilled ?
What requests have I denied? I wished to
combat the French by his side ; but he has taken
care that I shall be confined at home, to fight
against my own people. Have I merited such
treatment ?” When he was a little pacified, we
ventured to assure him that he had listened to
his own and to Sir Sidney's enemies; that there
did not exist a man more sincerely his friend;
and that the last commission we received, pre-
viously to our leaving the fleet, were Sir Sidney's
memorials of his regard for Djezzar Pasha. In
proof of this, we presumed to lay before him the
present Sir Sidney had entrusted to our care,
It was a small but very elegant telescope, with
silver slides. He regarded it, however, with
disdain, saying, it had too splendid an exterior
for him; and taking down an old ship glass,

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(1) A short crutch, frequently inlaid with mother of pearl, of which the author cannot recollect the Oriental name, serves men of rank in the East to support their bodies while sitting erect. Djezzar always had one of these; and the possession of it enabled the bearer to exercise the authority of the Pasha himself.

(2) Djezzar's prisoners were confined in a dungeon beneath the apartment in which he lived; so that all persons ascending or descending the staircase leading to his chambers passed the grated window of their jail.

SWOT I lent


CHAP. that hung above his head, covered with greasy

leather, added, “ Humbler instruments serve my purposes : besides, you may tell Sir Sidney, that Djezzar, old as he is, seldom requires the aid of a glass to view what passes around him." Finding it impossible to pacify him upon this subject', we turned the conversation, by stating the cause of our visit to Acre, and requested a supply of cattle for the use of the British fleet. He agreed to furnish an hundred bullocks, but upon the sole condition of not being offered payment for them in money”. He said it would require some time to collect cattle for this purpose : we therefore persuaded Captain Culverhouse to employ the interval in making, with us, a complete tour of the Holy Land. Djezzar, having heard of our intention, promised to supply us with horses from his own stables, and an escort, formed of his body guard, for the undertaking; ordering also his dragoman, Bertocino,

(1) The Rev. J. PALMER, Arabic Professor in the University of Cambridge, has visited Acre since the death of Djezzar. Being at the palace of his successor, Djezzar's secretary confessed to him, that his master had “ long made up his mind to put Sir Sidney to death, whenever the means were in his power.” Considering the open unsuspecting frankness of Sir Sidney, in all his dealings with the Arabs, it is wonderful this was not effected.

(2) The only remuneration required by Djezzar, for the supplies he twice sent to our ficet, was a few pieces of artillery taken by our army from the French in Egypt, or a little ammunition. It is said, however, that no payment of any kind was ever made to him.

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