lower the booms, and if required stop up the gear. The buntlines and leechlines are stopped to the slings close down, and hauled taut on deck. The bowline-bridles of all sails in furling are laid with the toggle towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard.

When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor below the yard-earrings well slewed up-sail smooth under the gaskets, bunt square, and a taut skin. The heels of the booms should be square, and everything necessary completed, previous to squaring the yards.

Furling Topsails. When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse it well up, lower away roundly the buntlines, and shore the sail well into the skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square; pass and secure the gaskets, lower and square the studding-sail booms, clews singled and hauled well up, buntlines stopped down.

HEAD SAILS.

These sails require some fittings not strictly within the sailmaker's department, such as the bails for tack-lashings, the hanks, &c.

Hanks are stout thimbles, of the shape shown in Figs. 361 and 362, which traverse up and down the stay. The common plan is to attach them to the luff by foxes of spun-yarn rove through the eyes of the hank and the evelet on the sail. A neater plan is suggested by Fig. 362, where a toggle is strapped into one eye of the hank, with a double strap of 6-thread stuff, and hooks into a single strap worked on the opposite eye, of 9-thread.

Fore-and-aft sails running upon hemp stays are bent with manilla bridles, the bridles being toggled to the sails. Those running on iron stays are fitted with hanks, Figs. 376 and 377. Bridles must be passed against the lay of the stay.

To stow a Head Sail. Haul it close down and pass the gaskets, have a clew-stop on the clew of the jib to hold the clew forward of the cap, and a similar one from the flying-jib clew to the wythe. The cover is then placed over and the stops tied. Jib-sheets stopped down and the sheets and halliards hauled taut. The fore-topmast stay-sail stows in a netting or canvas bottom made for the purpose and placed on the bowsprit between the stays.

Furling lines or sea gaskets are used in stowing the jibs at sea; for port there is fitted on the boom a centipede, a piece of sennit running the length of the boom, with short pieces of the same material running athwartship at certain intervals. The sail stows on the centipede, and the short ends are brought over and tied on top, as gaskets. Jibs carefully stowed in their own cloths may be made to look as neat as with a regular cover on, but require more care in stowing than any other fore-and-aft sail.

The flying-jib should be sent out for bending on the starboard side, on account of the boom being on that side of the bowsprit.

Make up a head sail, for stowing away, on the after leech, doubling the tack and head clew in toward the sheet before commencing to roll up.

Royals and Top-gallant Sails. They should be always bent on deck, on account of the difficulty of hauling out by hand; the earings and rope-bands are passed like those for the courses and topsails; the buntlines, clewlines, and sheets, being bent after the yard is crossed. If, however, it should be necessary to bend the top-gallant sail aloft, it may be sent up by the royal yard-rope, and the head-cringles hauled out by means of the top-gallant studding-sail halliards.

NOTE. In furling either a royal or top-gallant sail, it should be rolled up with a long, taut bunt, and the clews "tucked in," to avoid tearing the sail in its upward or downward passage.

Furling Fore and Aft Sails.

They are

furled best with a cover, but can be furled in the two aftercloths, though not usually looking so well. In furling with a cover, brail the sail close up and stop the cover around, commencing at the jaws and working down.

STUDDING-SAILS.

In bending these sails, place the roping of the sail on the after and under side of the yard, secured in such manner as to preclude the possibility of its bagging down.

The outer earings, which are spliced into the cringles with a short eye, are passed through holes bored in the extremities of the yard, from the after side-thence back through the cringle and over the yard, inside of the hole, until three or four turns are taken, when the end is hitched through the cringle and around the single part. The sail is then brought taut along the yard, the inner earing passed in the same manner, and the head-rope secured to the yard by neat sennit stops, which are fixtures in the eyelets. Lastly, the sheets and down-haul are bent as described in RUNNING RIGGING.

To Make up Topmast Studding-Sails when not Bent. Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the down-haul through the thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the leech. Then roll up toward the inner leech, lay the sheets along the whole length of the sail, roll up over all, and stop the sail well up with rope-yarn. The earings are expended round the head of the sail. The topgallant studding-sail is made up in the same manner.

When Bent. In making up a topmast studdingsail, when bent, overhaul the down-haul the length of the luff or outer leech; then take the foot up to the yard, and place the tack-cringle out. Bight the down-haul along the yard, also the sheets; roll the sail snugly up and stop it with sennit-tails. These are clove-hitched around the studdingsail-yard, and remain there. When the sail is being prepared for going aloft the sennit stops are cast adrift from around the sail, and the latter held together by a rope strap and toggle, as will be described hereafter under MAKING SAIL.

Lower Studding-Sails are bent and made up in the same manner as topmast studding-sails, with the sheet in.

When ready for sea, topgallant studding-sails are kept in the tops with covers on.

The other studding sails are rolled up in their covers and stowed on the booms.

It is the practice to keep, while at sea, the topmast studding-sail up and down the fore rigging, the topgallant studding-sail in the topmast rigging, and the lower studding-sails triced up and down the fore-mast. This is a very good plan when circumstances render a frequent use of these sails liable.

All spare sails should be tallied before being stowed in the sail-room, as it will prevent mistakes; and if a sail is properly stowed, and the sail-maker takes a list when they are stowing, there can never be any difficulty in finding what may be wanted.

Sail-Covers. for fore-and-aft sails, and for squaresails of steamers, very frequently have imitation gaskets, stitched or painted on the outside, which adds much to their appearance.

In addition to the cover for the main-sail and maintopsail, steamers have a "jacket" which laces around the main-mast to protect it from the smoke of the funnel.

Back-Cloths. These are for stowing the bunt of the topsails in. They are made of stout canvas, roped around, and are attached to the after part of the yard close up to the topmast. When arranged for furling, one corner is stopped out to the forward swifter of the topmast rigging, to the topsail lift, or wherever convenient. They add very much to the neat appearance of the sail when furled.

They should be sent down when the sails are unbent. The general rule for making up sails for storing away is to make them up in the longest side.

All sails for the Navy are made of flax canvas; cotton canvas is used for the following purposes:

No. 1 is principally for the construction of water-tanks for boats.

No. 2 for mess-cloths.

No. 3 for making tarpaulins and head-cloths.

No. 4 for deck awnings, boom-covers, hammock-cloths, &c.

Nos. 5 and 6 for wind-sails, sail-covers and boat-covers. Nos. 7 and 8 for boat awnings, awning curtains, wheelcovers, &c.

Nos. 9 and 10 for binnacle-covers, side-screens, &c.
Hammock stuff for making hammocks.

Bag-stuff for clothes-bags, hatch-hoods, &c.

Cot stuff for cots.

NOTE. All fore and aft sails, as well as courses, topsails and topgallant sails, are finished with iron clews.

CHAPTER XI.

PURCHASING WEIGHTS.

In addition to the gear described in previous chapters for handling sails and spars, there are certain purchases specially rigged on ship-board, when required, to hoist weights in or out of the vessel, or to transport such weights from one part of the ship to another.

The support for these purchases may be

First. The lower yard alone, supported by its lift.

Second. The lower yards, supported themselves by purchases from the mast-heads.

Third. The mast alone, as in the case of mast-head pendant tackles.

Fourth. The lower yard supported from the mast-head and by a derrick.

Fifth. The derrick alone.

Sixth. The sheers, already described under MASTING.

Hoisting in Light Articles. To hoist in an object of no great weight, such as a barrel of flour, use two single whips, one from the yard-arm, the other from the collar of the lower stay. The ends of the whips secure to a strap around the barrel, and by walking away with the yard-whip, the barrel is raised from the lighter alongside above the level of the rail; clap on to the stay whip, easing away the yard until the barrel is in line with the hatch, and strike it below by the stay-whip.

For a heavier weight use, instead of the single whips, the yard and stay water-whips, Fig. 267, Plate 38, described under TACKLES. See that the lower lift is taut, and hook the upper block of the yard so as to plumb the lighter.

It is desirable in port to keep the quarter-deck clear, therefore lead the yard-tackle forward on the same side as the weight is being raised, and the stay forward on the opposite side.

When using the "yard and stay," to provision or water ship, it will be found very advantageous to use a small single whip, or tricing-line, to light over the lower block of the tackle, to the great saving of paint work; the coamings of hatches should be carefully protected from injury by mats or boards.

In provisioning ship with the main "yard and stay" (water-whips) the fore-topmen break out, make up and stow the stay-tackle, and the main-topmen the yard tackle.