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the cut eye to be one foot longer at each end than the eye for a shroud, with good seizings at the proper places. The eyes are purposely made too large to prevent injury to the splice in opening the eye.

To Measure for No. 1, or First Pair of Shrouds. These comprise the swifter and next shroud, or, as called by riggers, "forward leg" and "after leg," and they go over the mast-head next after the pendants and always on the starboard side.

The beam-scale, Figs. 285 or 287, being adjusted to the mark representing the half-beam of the vessel, minus half the diameter of the mast, place it on the draft just at the upper edge of channel at the dead-eye of the first shroud. Place one point of the dividers at the top line of trestle-tree near the forward side of mast-head and the other point on the beam-scale at the mark indicating the half-beam, apply the dividers to the rule and observe the number of feet and inches it gives according to the scale on which the draft is made; this will give the length of the forward shroud, or "forward leg," of No. 1 pair, without the eye. Then proceed to measure for the next shroud or after-leg in the same manner, moving the beam-scale to the second dead-eye. There will be very little difference in the length of the two first legs. Having the length of both legs of No. 1 pair of shrouds, take their sum and add five squares of the masthead, plus the diameter of the lower mast-head pendants. as the shrouds will pile," or rise, that much on the masthead. This will give the extreme length of No. 1 pair.

Having the rope on a stretch, hang it, with tricing lines at short intervals to prevent sagging. Commence measuring from a mark near the strap on the end, the length of the forward leg. Then continue along to measure five squares of the mast-head, being careful to leave at the centre (which will be the centre of eye) a special mark, usually a long strand. Then measure and mark the after-leg, and in the same manner measure and mark all the other shrouds, not forgetting to add for the second pair of shrouds twice the thickness of a finished eye; for the third pair three times the thickness, &c., as each succeeding shroud must "pile that much in rising above the others on the mast-head. As each pair of shrouds is measured, marked and cut, it is painted from end to end with red lead and boiled oil [being particular to fill well in the lay], wormed and parcelled with new cotton sheeting. In putting on this parcelling commence from the end of each leg, working towards the centre of eye. The parcelling should be so put on that the rope will be protected with two thicknesses at every point; paint over the parcelling, and serve from end to end with spun yarn, commencing to serve from the centre and serving towards the ends. Measure off from the centre mark each way the half eye, which gives the place for the upper turn

of the eye-seizing. Start two feet below these eye-seizing marks, on each leg, and parcel with tarred flax canvas to the center of eye, and serve over with roundline. Double serve the end of each shroud from the place of the quarterseizing for its dead-eye. Bring the two ends of the shroud together and break the eye around till the two eye-seizing marks come firmly together. Mark one foot below the eyeseizing on each leg, and with strong flax parcelling put on the heading, which is just the same as parcelling, always commencing below and working up to the centre on both legs so that the edge of the "heading" will overlap and form a "shingling," which it is often termed. Use the selvage edge of parcelling stuff for shingling, leaving the selvage out; this makes smooth work that will not fray out. Secure the heading in place by marline hitches, which should be on top not more than one-half inch apart, leaving a space for the eye-seizing without hitches. Put on the eyeseizing.

Should there be an odd shroud in the fore or main rigging, it is fitted with an eye-splice, and goes over the masthead last, the eye to be spliced one foot longer than the eye of a pair of shrouds, and seized together above the splice so as to have the same size as it would have if of a pair; the eye to be double served and headed in the same manner as all the others.

Mizzen Rigging is fitted in the same manner as the fore and main, excepting in the case of an odd shroud, which is fitted "straight," passing over across the masthead abaft and forming one leg on each side, being spanned at the mast-head with the pendants, of which the mizzen has in this case but one on each side. In large ships the mizzen lower mast-head pendants are often fitted with four legs, in the same manner as is the fore and main.

Sword mats are put over the service on the swifters (forward shrouds) of lower rigging.

Bowsprit Rigging. Bobstays are now made of iron chain shackled into the cutwater and set up with four scored hearts secured to bands on the bowsprit. To find the length of bobstays, measure from the band under the bowsprit at the place prepared for the upper heart, to the bolt or link in cutwater, then find the number of feet and inches the two hearts will occupy and the drift of laniard, add together and subtract the sum from the extreme length; the remainder will be the length of the chains required for the bobstays. Care should be taken that the bobstays have the same drift of laniard, as it adds to the trimness of the head gear.

Bowsprit Shrouds are fitted of wire and lead well down on the bows, shackled to eye-bolts and set up with three scored hearts on the bowsprit. To find the length by draft, measure from the band on bowsprit at the

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place marked to the place in the bow, and from the extreme measure deduct the drift of laniard and one heart. The reason of but one heart being deducted, is that the measure of the other allows for the carry out" of the shroud. Too much care cannot be taken in fitting the gear and securing the bowsprit, as it not only has all the head booms to support, but in a great measure the foremast with its topmast and topgallant mast, together with the main topmast and topgallant mast.

Fore Stays are fitted with lashing eye collars and set up with laniards and four scored hearts. Measure for fore stays from the after-side of foremast head, about one foot above the trestle-trees, to the place where the lower heart is to be, and allow about three feet for lashing eyes.

To form the Collar of the Stay. Suppose the finished collar is to be twelve feet, then at fifteen feet from the upper end of the rope put on a whipping. This marks the crotch of the stay. Unlay from the end to the whipping, forming two legs of three strands each; cut out the heart close to the whipping, and put in another onethird smaller than the original.

Work in two strands eighteen feet long (the additional three feet for tucking at crotch) on each side, thus giving two legs of five strands each and a heart. These strands are tucked at the crotch as in an eye splice. Eye splices are worked in the end of each leg for lashing eyes. The lashing eyes are painted, wormed, parcelled, painted, and served in the eye before tucking. Get the stay on a stretch by lashing the toggles to posts four or five feet apart, get a strong tackle on the end, heave it up straight and trim the splices. Paint, worm, parcel, paint again, and serve with spun-yarn from end to end, being careful to have a good piece of parcelling laid through the crotch to shed the water. Then, from four feet below the crotch, parcel with tarred flax parcelling to eyes of collar, and leather over the parcelling, serving over the ends of the leather and over the splices. Having both stays double served and leathered, place one over the other, being careful to keep the crotches fair and even. Then seize both stays together with one good heavy seizing close up to the crotch, and smaller ones. at every two feet along the collars. Parcel and leather over the seizings. Double serve the ends of fore stays to eight feet above the nip around the thimble.

Main Stays are fitted in the same manner as fore stays, excepting the double service on end, which is only from quarter seizing around thimble to end. Sometimes if the smoke-stack, when up, is near the stays, a piece of chain is shackled into the stay just over the stack. The main stays generally set up with four scored hearts, the lower heart being secured to iron straps made for the purpose, one on each side of the foremast. The iron rods or

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