greater sufferer. The former things have passed away : the faithful Smyrnæans have long since fought their battle and won their crown. But now the evils are of a different order-apostacy, idolatry, superstition, infidelity, and their tremendous consequences. On whatever side we look, we meet only with what is calculated to excite painful feelings. The religion now predominant was unknown in the days when Polycarp was martyred; and, unlike the Paganism of Rome, which disappeared and fell before Christianity, it still maintains its seat, and lords it over those countries where the Redeemer suffered and where His Gospel was first proclaimed. Rome is the only place of importance mentioned in the Scriptures which has not been for centuries under the Mahomedan yoke.

The population of Smyrna has been estimated at 100,000, and even more. But the practice of exaggerating the population, which is so general in this country, has extended, I conceive, to this enumeration. I do not think that Smyrna contains many more than 75,000 inhabitants. Perhaps there may be 45,000 Turks, 15,000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, 8000 Jews, and less than 1000 Europeans. The Mosques are more than 20. The Greeks have three Churches; the Armenians, one; the Latins, two; the Protestants, two. The Jews have several Synagogues.

Mr. Jowett has given us an interesting account of the Greeks in these parts, in his "Christian Researches in the Mediterranean." I regret to say, that, at present,

a cloud has darkened that pleasing picture. The Universities of Scio and Haivali, which promised to be the cradle of Grecian Learning and Religion, have been destroyed; and a check has been given to Education, which there are but slender hopes to see repaired. Smyrna has participated in the general miseries of Greece. No longer do we find Economus giving instruction to his young countrymen; and in vain do we look for any institution which is calculated to assist the studies of the rising population. I am happy, however, to remark that the "Evangelical School" still exists; an institution, which owes its perpetuity to English Protection, and which, if it be not calculated to lead the pupil into the field of extensive knowledge, prevents him at least from being sunk in utter ignorance. I had the pleasure of frequent intercourse with the Master of this School, and found him one of the most liberal Ecclesiastics whom I have met with in the Eastern Communion. The number of his pupils is about 150; but they are all very young, and their education is little more than elementary. In addition to this establishment, the Greek Youths of Smyrna have no other means of acquiring knowledge, than what is furnished by very inferior Day Schools and by private instruction.*

Smyrna will ever be to the Christian a most interesting spot. The conflict which was here maintained was

*The Schools of the Rev. Mr. Brewer have been established since the above was written, and have been remarkably successful.

one of no common description. It was not only Polycarp himself, who was the gainer by his sufferings: on the firmness of the Christian Martyrs depended, under Divine Providence, the transmission of the Truth to the latest generations. Had they yielded to the fury of their foes, and denied the Lord who bought them, we should have been still immersed in the ignorance of our forefathers-without God and without hope in the world. We do well, then, to cherish the memory of these faithful Servants of God. It is just for us to bless the Most High, for His grace bestowed upon them. I must confess that I tread the ground, which has been signalized by the death of a Christian Martyr, with unspeakably more delight than I should visit the Plain of Marathon. Here was a conflict, not for the liberty which is merely co-existent with the span of human life, but for a freedom which is eternal! Here-without arms, without allies the world and its god were vanquished! Here was honour won-not that empty shadow which fallen man admires, but that exceeding and eternal weight of glory, which God has prepared for His faithful servants.

FROM SMYRNA TO EPHESUS.

March 28, 1826-We entered on our journey this afternoon. I am favoured with a companion in the Rev. Mr. Arundell, British Chaplain at Smyrna, and Rector of Landolph in Cornwall. The rest of our party consists of Mehmet, a Janissary of the English Consulate; Milcon, an Armenian, the Surigee, or, in other

words, the man who provides and takes charge of the horses; Mustapha, a Turk, who gives help to Milcon; and Nicolas, a native of Thessaly, my own servant.

The immediate environs of Smyrna are interesting, from the thick groves of cypress which adorn, with pensive beauty, the Turkish Burial-grounds. Christians might learn an advantageous lesson from the attention of the Turks to their places of interment. I know of no churchyards, in England, which will bear a comparison with the cemeteries of Smyrna.

Close to Smyrna, we were gratified with the improvements of Suleyman Aga; but, afterwards, observed nothing which merits attention. After a ride of little more than two hours, we arrived at Sebdikioi, and spent the night at the country-house of Mr. Arundell. In this village there are three summer retirements, possessed by opulent European Families resident in Smyrna. A Missionary would find it an excellent retreat during the heat of summer; and would here, not only be able to obtain that retirement for devotional exercises which is so important to a Christian, but would find abundant opportunity of usefulness by his intercourse with the Greeks of the village. The number of Greek houses is estimated at 300: the Turks have 40, with one Mosque.

March 29, 1826-We have had a most perilous journey to-day. On leaving Sebdikioi, the clouds threatened rain; but transient gleams of sunshine emboldened us to proceed. We had not advanced far

before the rain overtook us; nor could we for several hours find any other shelter except what was afforded amidst the ruins of Olanizzi. This was, a few years ago, a flourishing Greek Village; but, since the Revolution, a party of Turks passing that way utterly destroyed it; the very trees have not escaped the fire. After leaving it, the rain descended upon us with more fury than ever. During the former part of the day we passed some moderate elevations; but afterwards we entered on one of those immense plains, for which Asia Minor is celebrated. Our first essay on this extensive level was of an appalling description. For full a quarter of a mile, we had to contend with a terrible morass: perceiving, however, the Janissary pushing on manfully, I followed him; and, at length, after continual sinking and plunging, we emerged upon firmer ground.

About two o'clock, we arrived at a miserable hovel, in which we were glad to obtain shelter and spend the remainder of the day and the whole of the night. The owner is a poor negro. He informs us that his hut is called "The Arab's Coffee-house." Here we are surrounded by smoking Turks; the rain penetrates through the roof, while we have to spread our mattresses on a dirty floor; and, what is most shocking to European delicacy, we are excessively annoyed by the vermin, always met with in such situations: yet we find cause of gratitude in the protection we enjoy.

March 30, 1826-This morning, we had a ride over the plain, rendered more agreeable by the contrast of