the year 1828, I happened to inquire of my attendants, whether the plague was of frequent occurrence in that place. The answer implied, that the plague had never visited the town since the martyrdom of a certain individual of the class just described.

CHAPTER IV.

RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS.

Picture-Worship-Description of the Pictures in Churches-Modes of worshipping them-Pictures in Houses -- Emolument and imposition of Painters in the Sale of Pictures, illustrated by an anecdote—Arguments against the Worship of Saints and Pictures from the Septuagint-from Epiphanius-from Chrysostom― Greek ideas of Fasting—Fasts observed by Pirates-The Four Lents-Articles of Food prohibited.

THE unhappy triumph, which was gained in the eighth century by the advocates of picture-worship, still exhibits its baneful effects amongst the Greeks. On entering a Greek church, the first object which attracts notice is the immense multitude of pictures, attached to all parts of the building. No statues, indeed, are ever seen. The absurd notion is entertained, that, whilst orthodoxy and devotion sanction picture-worship, idolatry stands connected with the worship of statues. The pictures which are most peculiarly the object of adoration are those which are affixed

to the eastern screen.

The whole of this screen,

up to the very roof, is crowded with them. I have most frequently observed the virgin in the middle compartment of the lowest tier; and this appears to be the post of highest honour. On each side are seen, Christ, St. Chrysostom, St. Basil, John the Baptist, and others. The Apostles usually occupy twelve stations in the row above. Sometimes the central tablet contains what the Greeks call "The sacred handkerchief," being a representation of our Saviour's face left imprinted upon the handkerchief which, according to the legend, our Lord sent to King Abgarus. Revolting pictures in representation of the Holy Trinity are by no

means uncommon.

These objects of religious regard are, invariably, most wretched performances, destitute of ali taste and beauty. They are usually on wood; and not unfrequently, by way of superior honour, are adorned with crowns of silver and gold and similar decorations.

When a Greek enters a church, he instantly advances to the principal pictures, crosses himself, bows very frequently before them, and kisses them. That kissing may not soil and deface the large pictures, there are often small ones attached to the larger, which are taken in the

hand and pressed to the lips. During service, many bring wax-tapers, and burn them in front of a particular picture, in order to do it honour. These are only a few of the melancholy absurdities of picture-worship, which are prevalent.

It is not only in churches that practices of this superstitious character are exhibited. In every Greek house the family-pictures are to be seen, having replaced, apparently, the Household-gods of the Ancients. Nor are the devotions of the family, or individuals, ever conducted, except in front of these emblems. Day and night, lamps are kept burning before them; and it would argue a neglect of religion, to suffer them lightly to be extinguished. Even in Greek ships, whether large or small, an image of the patron-saint is never wanting. In some places, individuals are in possession of pictures which are reputed to have signal efficacy in the cure of distempers: hence they are as infallibly called in on occasion of sickness, as is the physician in other countries; and they furnish their owner with no small means of emolument. From time to time, pictures are also discovered, according to report, in subterranean recesses; and when brought to light, they are exhibited in some place adjacent, with lamps before them, and never fail to attract crowds of worshippers.

It may easily be imagined, that, under these circumstances, the profession of painter is often lucrative, and that artists do not fail to employ the most unjustifiable means to advance their interests. A friend of mine once spent a night at Magnesia, in his way from Smyrna to Constantinople. His host was a picture-seller. In the course of the evening, a countryman came to purchase a picture of St. Nicholas. What kind of a picture do you want?" inquired the painter. “Is it a miracle-working St. Nicholas, or a plain St. Nicholas?" The countryman begged to see both. They were accordingly produced; and, in answer to inquiries, the painter informed his customer, that the miracle-working picture had leaped the night preceding from the station which it occupied, had marched along the floor to a considerable distance, and had then resumed its original position. The price of this picture was, in consequence, nearly double that of the plain St. Nicholas. The purchaser seemed anxious to obtain what appeared so valuable a treasure; but his poverty only permitted him to buy the plain St. Nicholas.

I have never found any difficulty in convincing Greeks of the impropriety of worshipping saints and pictures, when I had previously adopted a