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ly south the harbor opens, its waters of a brilliant yet soft blue, transparent and reflecting objects floating upon it with startling vividness. To the east the shore sweeps around in graceful curve to another headland-fortress-topped and with light-tower on its brink. forming a little peninsula, covered with tree and bush, green from the water's edge. The air is soft and balmy, the sky without a cloud, and the sea, out from the harbor's entrance, stretches, glassy and shining bright, save where the long swell casts purple shadows in the hollows, as it rolls directly into the bay, and the Yorktown rocks slowly from port to starboard and from starboard back to port again, gently and softly as a cradle. But a cable's-length or two away from us the Atlanta's sides shine silvery white in the sunlight; while between us and the head of the harbor, where the high masts of the flagship and the Boston point upward, the black iron hulls of the Frenchmen are mirrored in the limpid depths. One or two fishing boats-dark specks on the glittering waves in the offing-are moving out; and here and there among the olivetrees on the steep hillsides, where pretty villas and farm-houses peep out, blue smoke from early fires, thin and hazy, rises straight upward and melts into

the clear air.

Eight strokes on the bell of the

pets sound, and, like so many firecrackers on the "glorious Fourth," rifles pop on the Frenchmen, as the flags are raised on both fleets.

The "first lieutenant " has his sword on as he stands by the hatch leading below, giving some directions to the ship's writer, and one or two of the other officers are coming up the ladder, buckling their belts or drawing on their white gloves. In duck working clothes and watchcaps the men are gathering forward; the bo's'n's-mate on the forecastle is superintending the rigging up of a whip, while some of the men are taking apart the carriages of the fieldpieces which stand on either side of the deck. The marines-belts on, rifles in hand-stand together near the port gangway; from the armory apprentices are bringing up firearms and equipments; some of the sailors are putting on their brown leggings or strapping their cartridge or cutlass belts around their waists; while in such of the boats as are still hanging from the davits one or two of the men of their crews are busied getting them ready for the day's work, and all hands are bustling about not to be behindhand when the signal to embark comes from the flagship-a brigade from our squadron being ordered to land for shore drill.

Soon the bugles sound, the whistles pipe, away go the boats' crews. The

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steam launch lies smoking at the starboard ladder; the guns-Hotchkiss and Gatling-hoisted up by the whip, are lowered into the boats in the water alongside, and in a jiffy the men, armed as infantry and artillery, have taken their places, and we are soon gliding along, one boat after the other, towed toward the shore by the little steamer. We pass the Atlanta, her crew swarming over the sides; and, coming from the Chicago and Boston, we see the long lines of cutter, launch, and whaleboat, flags flying, well-armed crews filling them, swiftly crossing the harbor to the landing-place on the eastern side, a lovely little cove, where an old stone pier juts out into the water, and where, by the courtesy of the French Government, our forces are permitted to land. As we come up to the pier, one after the other the boats discharge their loads. The cannon are lifted out, the long drag-ropes manned, and the batteries formed; the infantry companies "fall in" quickly and move off along the shore toward a winding path leading up the precipitous hillsides. Quite a respectable force it is, too, with the bluecoated marines and white-clad sailormen, making up a body of infantry several hundred strong, four batteries of artillery with the best and newest types of ordnance, and a detachment of pioneers and hospital corps.

Drums rattling, trumpets sounding, the infantry advances in long, solid columns, winding up the hillside between dark green hedges and stone walls, wheeling to the right on the hard macadam of the highway, until, out from under the overhanging branches of the trees by the high walls that surround the lovely gardens of a pretty villa, the troops debouch on to a breezy, brushcovered plateau that forms the top of the peninsula. The artillery follows close behind; Jackie is used to hauling, and the heavy little fieldpieces are jumped along up the steep hillsides like nothing at all.

What a glorious picture, as stretching in front of us, where the land beyond there stops abruptly, the sea sparkles and ripples in the sunshine, royally purple in hue, in glowing contrast with the sapphire sky, which, cloudless, rises

VOL. VIII.-64

like a dome above. To the left and rear, sweeping in a bold curve eastward, the coast trends away; Beaulieu clusters in garden and olive groves, orange and rose trees, palms gracefully drooping feathery branches over green hedges; huge cliffs tower, naked and grand, from the white curving road on the strand, and high mountain-tops raise mighty crests heavenward. Down below, every stitch of canvas spread, a bark is speeding over the sea," and far on the distant horizon to the southward a hazy streak of smoke marks the passage of some steamer bound for Corsican harbors.

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Off to the right and left of the road the batteries wheel. Away go lines of skirmishers, dotting the dark plain with spots of snowy white; bugle-calls ring out, commands are shouted, the artillery carriages rattle on the stony road. Jackie is "soldiering" with a vengeance, not in his signification of the term, by which he would imply that "soldiering means shirking hard work, but in true military style scrambling over rock and bush in the advance or retreat, or prone upon the ground on the skirmish line, pegging away at an imaginary enemy, on the whole, it seems, rather enjoying the novelty of his work than otherwise. To be sure Jackie's methods-his careless air, his loose movements, his flowing garments-contrast with the trim appearance and the precision and regularity with which the soldier does his work; but there is a devil-may-care recklessness about the man-of-war's-man-an activity and vim in "getting there"that is purely his own, and will probably serve its purpose, as far as the sailorman is concerned, fully as well as if he were compelled to observe every nicety of detail of the drill. Be that as it may, it is a fine lot of fighting material that composes this brigade, and the admiral may well be proud of his command- -as no doubt he is-as he stands there by the roadside, taking no active part in the proceedings, but with his keen eyes closely observing the progress of the manoeuvres and noting every movement for future blame or praise.

Drums rattling, trumpets sounding again, the brigade returns to the shore and the men are speedily embarked

with his neighbors as happy and hilarious as any Frenchman in the crowd. Several honest fellows among our men, mounted on tricycles they have hired somewhere, and puffing at black cigars in long holders, ride calmly along with the carriages, totally unconscious of anything unusual or odd in their appearance, and oblivious of the attention they are attracting.

once more, one detachment after the other entering the boats, quietly and in excellent order, and pulling back to the ships. Although there is no "let up" to the drills and duties on the squadron, carnival time has come, and every afternoon sees boatloads of liberty men leaving the war-vessels for the shore. The railway at the head of the bay, where the tunnel enters into the mountain's side, is alive all day long with On the last days of King Carnival's trains, every carriage filled with passen- reign fun and merrymaking run riot in gers; on the road leading around the the streets of Nice. The battle of the point to Nice equipages and wayfarers confetti rages, and from end to end of are moving. The streets of the city are the Quai Massena and the Promenade crowded with people from all classes of des Anglais, on all the squares and the society, rich and poor, with representa- adjacent streets, the mob of maskers tives of every civilized nation in Europe hold supreme sway. Woe to the luckand beyond. The beautiful Promenade less wight who, in his innocence mindes Anglais, with its border of palms gles with the crowd in his ordinary running between the roadway and the everyday dress, and his head unprobeach, is covered from end to end with tected by the wire masks to be bought a dense, slowly moving crowd. The at every street corner. The confetti windows of the hotels and clubs, gayly flies in showers, and, hard as stones and festooned and decorated stands by the of the size of peas, sting mercilessly walls of the gardens, are filled with when they strike uncovered face and fashionably dressed men and women in ears. It is all very well when the atbeautiful toilets, while in the throng on tacking party is some bright-eyed girl, the sidewalks below, railed in from the muffled from head to foot in her domdrive, "all sorts and conditions" of ino; but when, as is too often the case, men, women, and children vie with one some ruffianly fellow in the crowd takes another in enjoyment of the day. Long evil delight in sending a handful of lines of carriages, flower - bedecked, miniature grape-shot straight into your move slowly up one side and down the face with all the force he is capable of, it other, the occupants exchanging volleys must be confessed that to control one's of flowers with the surrounding crowd, temper is not always an easy matter, and the air is heavy with the perfume and I am not surprised to see one too of roses, geraniums, and violets. To obtrusive masker clutched by the powand fro the people surge; laughter and erful hand of an American from the music from the military bands, stationed squadron-a tall, big, quiet man-and at intervals on the street, shouts and shaken, as a Newfoundland dog would cries, song and applause, the clapping shake a rat, until his teeth rattled in of hands at some dexterous hit or his head. However, "do in Rome as as some beautifully decorated carriage Romans do," and if you will be temptpasses, rise in a confused roar from the ed to mingle with the crowd on 8 multitude, while everywhere the utmost "confetti" day at Nice, wear your oldgood-humor and hilarity prevail, as est clothes, put a wire cage over your high and low, mistress and maid, master head, and keep your hands in your and man, prince and plebeian meet to- pockets; or else throw cold Anglo-Saxgether for the nonce on a common foot- on reserve "to the winds," dress youring of equality. Here and there in the self in a ridiculous costume of some crowd the broad blue collar and flat- sort or other and join in the mad folly topped caps of our sailors form con- of the time. spicuous targets for fair flower-throwers, and Jackie, ever ready for fun, enters thoroughly into the spirit of the day, and throws his flowers and jokes

And now one evening I stand on the shore looking over the water to the shapely cruisers floating there, and feel

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