justment is secured the fan support may be firmly clamped in position. At D the fan is carried by a simple lever which swings about a boss attached to the cylinder. In order to alter the fan belt tension the clamp nuts may be loosened and the lever swung over until the belt is properly tightened. This adjustment is retained by tightening the clamp nut. Another application of the eccentric principle is shown at E, while another form of swinging supporting lever is outlined at F. The method at G is distinctive and very accurate adjustment of the belt tension may be secured. The fan hub rotates on one end of a lever which swings on a hinge formed integrally with the water manifold. Adjustment screws are provided at each side of the hinge to regulate the height of the fan. To tighten the fan belt the adjustment screw nearest the fan must be screwed down to raise the fan supporting lever, while that at the other end must be screwed out the same amount as the other is screwed in. When the proper degree of tension is obtained the adjustment screws may be locked with suitable check nuts.

Lacing Flat Fan Belts.-Lacing a fan belt is not a difficult operation, but unless care is taken in performing the work it is not easy to obtain a joint that will be neat and enduring. Certain preliminary precautions are necessary, an important point to observe being to make sure that the approximate edges of the belt be cut straight and at right angles to the longitudinal edges. The holes should be punched through with a belt punch, should be no larger than absolutely necessary, and should be distributed so as to weaken the belt the least. Belts used for driving cooling fans are seldom wide enough for more than three holes. It is not always possible to obtain rawhide belt lacing narrow enough to be used with these narrow belts, but it is possible to cut strips from the wider lacings such as can be obtained from any machine shop. The cutting may be done as indicated at A, Fig. 176, it being important that the knife have a very keen edge. The knife should be held between the fingers and the palm of the hand so the thumb ean be employed as a guide to maintain the strip to be cut off of regular width. The lacing to be split should be given a preliminary ent of about two inches, then the knife should be placed with the

point resting on a bench, the blade being inclined slightly to secu a good cutting angle. Take hold of the strip to be cut off with th free hand, and by pressing the thumb firmly against the edge the lacing and the bench draw the strip carefully upward. Whe the laces are cut, trim the ends to a long, narrow point, so the may be inserted in the holes punched in the belt.

In lacing a belt, first stick one lacing end through one of th center holes in the belt from the under side, which is the portio

that will run next to the pulleys. Repeat with the other end of the belt lace and draw the ends of the belt together, as show at B. Next place one end down through the side hole at the opposite end of the belt and bring it up through the hole on the same side of the end of the belt, as shown at C. Repeat thi operation with the other end on the other side, as shown at D The last step is to tie the ends of the lacing together at the top of the belt and cut off the surplus material. The three strips or

the under side of the belt will run parallel to each other and there will be no bunching to interfere with smooth running over the pulley. Metal belt lacings are sometimes used for this purpose, but these are not so satisfactory as the more pliable material, owing to the small diameter of the fan pulley. While the flat belt is the type most generally used, as it is the most serviceable, the round section belts are sometimes employed, these running

Fig. 177.-Hose Clamps of Good Design.

over grooved pulleys, or V belts running in 28 degrees straight side grooved driving members.

Hose Clamps.-The problem of compressing the rubber hose connections tightly enough around the manifold and piping of the radiator so they will not permit water to escape at the joint is difficult to solve unless hose clamps of good design are used to compress the hose in firm contact with the pipe. The simplest form of hose clamp to have received general application is shown. at Fig. 177, A. This is made of a band of sheet metal, stamped

and bent to the form shown. A clamp screw is used to tighte the clamp around the hose. While this form is generally used it is sometimes possible to screw these up so tightly that the ope ends will abut without forming a tight joint. Difficulty is some times experienced with this form when replacing worn hose wit new in closing the ends enough to catch the nut on the end of th clamp screw. This calls for the use of a longer clamp screw tha that ordinarily furnished with the clamp. Another disadvantag of the form shown at A is that it will fit but one size of hose.

The Morgan hose clamp, which is shown at B, has the advan tage of being quickly attached and of being used with several dif ferent sizes without alteration. As will be noted by the illustration it includes a flat band and buttress, and a slot in the latter permit of quick adjustment. The band is secured by a T head bolt carry ing a wing nut, as indicated. The band is provided with severa holes for the purpose of fitting different sized hose. The clamp come in a variety of sizes and one of the good qualities of the design is that no tools are necessary to adjust it. Another form of clamp that has the advantage of being adaptable to a number of sizes of hose and which also insures a tight joint is shown at C The main portion of the device is a stamped buttress which has a wire clamp fastened at one end, designed to encircle the hose forming a guide in the channel section for the threaded end of the clamping wire which is guided by it and which is tightened by means of a winged nut. These clamps are much superior to the cheap form of wire hose clamp used in connection with garden hose which calls for the use of a special tool to apply it. Adjustable clamps are necessary because it is imperative to have water joints of such a nature that they may be readily broken when

necessary.

Restoring Broken Water Pipe. In attempting to remove a water manifold made of brass tubing from a motor cylinder a workman used a large wrench in endeavoring to unscrew a nut rusted in place. The wrench slipped and bent the tubing in the manner indicated at Fig. 178, A. The tube was thin and was coupled to the cylinder by a flange and nut coupling, the pipe being flared at the end to seat against a corresponding male member screwed into