a whole community: but, when an entire body of Christians, when a Christian Church, becomes guilty of this sin, the indignation of God is exhibited in the face of the world itself. At Ephesus we find, at present, only one individual who bears the name of Christ!-and where, in the whole region, do we discover any semblance of Primitive Christianity? The country once favoured with the presence of St. Paul, of Timothy, and St. John, is now in the situation of those lands, of which it is said, Darkness covers the earth, and gross darkness the people -He, then, that hath an ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the Churches.

FROM EPHESUS TO LAODICEA.

After leaving Ephesus, we passed through a very beautiful country. We first ascended a romantic glen, down which was flowing a pellucid rivulet: we were surrounded on all sides by the oleander and the finest shrubs and trees. In the course of the ascent, we passed under the arches of an ancient Aqueduct. The whole of the ride, till we approached Enek-bazar, was through a hilly country, adorned by woods, romantic streams, and every thing calculated to amuse and delight the traveller. After resting a short time at a coffee-house, called Balatchick, where we observed many fragments of columns, we descended toward the plain on which Magnesia-onthe-Maander (so called to distinguish it from Magnesia-by-Sipylus) was situated. The ground around the town had rather a marshy and threatening aspect, but

we passed it without difficulty, and I proceeded to examine with attention the ruins of this ancient city. The distance from Ephesus is seven hours.

It is only recently that Mr. Hamilton has discovered, that these remains, called, by the Turks, Enek-bazar, are the relics of the Ancient Magnesia. They strike every visitor with surprise. The remains, in particular, of the Temple of Diana Leucophryne are sufficient to confirm the remark of Strabo, that, in some respects, this building was superior to the Temple of the Ephesian Diana itself. Magnesia is, at present, without inhabitants. A Turkish Mosque is standing; but we did not observe any village within the distance of two or three miles.

This is one of the cities which was presented by Artaxerxes to Themistocles, on that celebrated Athenian's taking refuge in his dominions. It was here that Themistocles had his residence; and here, in all probability, he closed his life. It would be scarcely supposed probable, that Themistocles affords an example for the imitation of Missionaries: Erasmus has, however, discovered a circumstance in his life, which he has proposed as an incentive to Missionary Undertakings. In contending against the difficulty which results from the labour of learning foreign tongues, he reminds us that Themistocles undertook to learn the language of Persia when he was already advanced in years, in order that he might render himself useful to the King, his patron: and should those, who are aiming to impart to their fellow

creatures the greatest benefit which can be conferred on man, shrink from their undertaking, on account of a difficulty which Themistocles, and, we may add, such a multitude of other individuals, actuated by very inferior motives, have overcome? This, to the best of my recollection, is the purport of the remark. I will add, for the sake of those who may have felt themselves deterred by the obstacle in question, that the impediment is much less than it actually appears. A man, who is present in a land where every one around him speaks a new language, finds himself very soon capable of conversing, even on religious subjects. It is a mistake to suppose that years must pass away, before he can render himself useful. I am persuaded that a Missionary may enter on some, at least, of his duties almost immediately on his arrival; and that he may hope also, with good reason, for the Divine Blessing on his endeavours. Is not the distribution of the Scriptures a most useful part of his office? and what prevents him, if his lot is cast in a land where the Scriptures can be understood, from engaging in this service the very day that he sets foot in that land? There is something, besides, extremely interesting in the acquisition of a living tongue. Let no one compare the tedious study of a dead language, with the life, the excitement, and the interest of accents, which are sounding in his ears on every side.

We have good evidence that Magnesia became a partaker of the blessings of Christianity in the earliest times. An Epistle of Ignatius to the Church esta

blished there is still extant; and it gives us reason to believe, that the genuine spirit of Christianity was at that time exerting its influence among its members.

In proceeding to the Village of Uzunkum, we forded the Lytheus, a broad but shallow stream, and entered on the beautiful and extensive plain of the Mæander. We found a considerable number of Greeks in the village; and the Aga allotted us a lodging in one of their best houses. They were principally natives of Cyprus, whom the changes occasioned by the Greek Revolution had transferred to their present abode. I was exceedingly delighted by my intercourse with these poor people; and had an excellent opportunity of addressing them on the most important of subjects. They paid great attention to my remarks; and, after I had concluded, Nicolas read to them, for a considerable time, from the New Testament. They could not themselves read; but we left a Testament and a variety of Tracts for the Priest, who was at a distance; and they promised to engage him to read them in their hearing.

We were much affected to observe the great distress of the Greeks in this place: they were full of inquiries concerning the war, and had great apprehensions for their lives. The Greeks in the Turkish Empire are really in circumstances not unlike those which have befallen the Jews-The Lord shall give thee a trembling heart, and failing of eyes, and sorrow of mind; and thy life shall hang in doubt before thee; and thou shalt fear day and night, and shalt have none assurance of

thy life: Deut. xxviii. 65, 66. Notwithstanding the ignorance and superstition of these poor Greeks, I have found it quite a relief to meet with them, after so much intercourse with Mahomedans. In a Christian we recognise a brother, even though he may have lost much that is important and valuable in his religion. I never yet found a Greek who was not acquainted with our Lord's declaration, Him that cometh to me, I will in no wise cast out.

April 1,1826-We commenced our journey up the vale of the Mæander. The river itself was at some distance

on our right: on

our left we had Mount Messogis;

and one

away our

and, all along its base, a succession of small hills, thrown into a thousand fantastic forms. We crossed several streams descending from the mountains; of them so swollen, that it had almost carried baggage-horse. Two or three large villages lay in our route, and the largest and most regular encampment of Turcomans which I have yet seen. The tents of these wanderers were, as usual, all black; a circumstance which, viewed in connexion with their great neatness and regularity, may perhaps be deemed an illustration of Canticles, i. 5: I am black but comely, O ye daughters of Jerusalem! as the tents of Kedar, as the curtains of Solomon. It ought to be added, that, in Asia Minor, the tents of the Turcomans only are of this colour *.

* This passage of Canticles has given rise to a diversity of opinions see Harmer's Observations, Chap. ii. Observ. 36. It must be acknowledged, that, to the tents of the Turcomans,

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