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furnish a proverbial saying, "The Milesians were once great:" but if we compare its ancient glory, and that its subsequent humiliation, with its present state, we may justly exclaim, Miletus, how much lower art thou now fallen!

CHAP. XLIII.

THE AGA OF SUKI-TO URA-TO BRANCHIDE-PORT PANORMUS A WATER THERE-RUIN OF THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO DIDYMÆUS-OTHER REMAINS.

WHILE we were employed on the theatre of Miletus, the aga of Suki, son-in-law by marriage to Elez-Oglu, crossed the plain towards us, attended by a considerable train of domestics and officers, their vests and turbans of various and lively colours, mounted on long-tailed horses, with shewy trappings and glittering furniture. He returned, after hawking, to Miletus, and we went to visit him, with a present of coffee and sugar; but were told that two favourite birds had flown away, and that he was vexed and tired. A couch was prepared for him beneath a shed made against a cottage, and covered with green boughs to keep off the sun. He entered as we were standing by, and fell down on it to sleep, without taking any notice of us. rambled over the ruins until he awoke, when we were again admitted. He was sitting on a carpet, cross-legged, with a hooded falcon on his knee, and another, which he stroked often and caressed, before him on a stand. Round about him were dogs and horses. The Armenian, who interpreted for us, offered him our firhman; but he said, it was sufficient

We

that he knew our country; that the English and Turks were brethren. He examined our weapons with attention; discoursed on them and our apparel, expressed regret that he was unable to entertain us so well as he wished, and promised us a letter of recommendation to the aga of Melasso. We were treated each with a pipe and dish of coffee; after which, making our obeisance, we retired, well pleased with his manly politeness and civility. In the morning he sent the letter, and a little old man, a Turk, who had been a camel-leader, and was well acquainted with the roads, to be our guide.

We set out at twenty minutes before eight for Ura, or Urada, where we expected to find the ruins of Branchidæ, a place famous for a most magnificent temple dedicated to Apollo Didymæus. Near the city-gate, going thither, on the left hand of the road, was once the monument of Neleus, a leader of the Ionians, and founder of Miletus. This was probably a barrow. We saw no traces of the city-wall. In half an hour the plain ended, and we came to a range of hills, called anciently mount Latmus; and soon after to a poor village of Greeks named Auctui, where we stayed an hour to procure fowls, eggs, and other provisions, to be carried with us. At ten we had passed a heathy vale by the sea, and then crossing a high ridge, had in view some columns of the temple, which are yet standing. The road was over the mountain among low shrubs, chiefly the arbutus, then laden with fruit, like strawberries,

d After eight. R.

These hills join to Grias on the south side of the lake, and are nothing more than the roots or excrescences of that mountain. R.

large and tempting; the colour a lively red, the taste luscious and woody 8. Before us was a small inlet or gulf on the north side of the promontory Posidium, on which the temple is situated. We came to the head of it, and turning up in a valley, arrived about twelve at Ura, where are a few straggling huts.

A peasant of Ura undertook to conduct us to the ruins, which are half an hour distant. We proceeded without dismounting, and on a sudden a wild bull h, roaring, rushed out of a thicket, close by the road, and made furiously at our guide. The man, who was before us on foot, turning nimbly round some bushes, eluded the attack. This terrible animal had for some time infested that district.

In descending from the mountain toward the gulf, I had remarked in the sea something white on the farther side; and going afterwards to examine it, found the remain of a circular pier belonging to the port, which was called Panormus. The stones, which are marble, and about six feet in diameter, extend from near the shore; where are traces of buildings, probably houses, overrun with thickets of myrtle, mastic, and evergreens.

Some water occurring fifteen minutes from Ura, and presently becoming more considerable, I traced it to the gulf, which it enters at the head, after a very short course, full and slow. This was anciently supposed to have its source on mount Mycale, and to pass the sea in its way to port Panormus, by which it emerged opposite to Branchida.

f Pale red. R.

g Pliny calls it pomum inhonorum. Nat. Hist. xv. 24.

h Mad bull. R.

The temple of Apollo was eighteen or twenty stadia, or about two miles and a half, from the shore; and one hundred and eighty stadia, or twenty-two miles and a half, from Miletus. It is approached by a gentle ascent, and seen afar off; the land toward the sea lying flat and level. The memory of the pleasure which this spot afforded me will not be soon or easily erased. The columns yet entire are so exquisitely fine, the marble mass so vast and noble, that it is impossible perhaps to conceive greater beauty and majesty of ruin. At evening, a large flock of goats, returning to the fold, their bells tinkling, spread over the heap, climbing to browse on the shrubs and trees growing between the huge stones. The whole mass was illuminated by the declining sun with a variety of rich tints, and cast a very strong shade. The sea, at a distance, was smooth and shining, bordered by a mountainous coast, with rocky islands. The picture was as delicious as striking. A view of part of the heap, with plates of the architecture of this glorious edifice, has been engraved and published, with its history, at the expense of the society of Dilettanti.

We found among the ruins, which are extensive, a plain stone cistern, covered, except an end, with soil; many marble coffins, unopened, or with the lids broken; and one, in which was a thigh bone; all sunk deep in earth: with five statues, near each other, in a row, almost buried. In the stubble of some Turkey wheat were a number of bee-hives, each a long hollow trunk of wood headed like a barrel, piled in a heap. An Armenian, who was with

i Following the windings of the seacoast. R.

me, on our putting up a hare, to my surprise slunk away. This animal, as I was afterwards informed, is held in abomination by that people, and the seeing it accounted an ill omen.

CHAP. XLIV.

AT THE TEMPLE-AT URA-IGNORANCE OF THE TURKSTHEIR HUTS-WE CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY-THE CONFINES OF IONIA WITH CARIA.

THE temple of Apollo Didyméus seeming likely to detain us some time, we regretted the entire solitude of the spot, which obliged us to fix our quarters at Ura. Our Armenian cook, who tarried there with our baggage, sent us provisions ready dressed, and we dined under a shady tree by the ruins. Our horses were tied, and feeding by us. Our camelleader testified his benevolence and regard, by frequent tenders of his short pipe, and of coffee, which he made unceasingly, sitting cross-legged by a small fire. The crows settled in large companies round about, and the partridge called in the stubble.

At our return in the evening to Ura, we found two fires, with our kettles boiling, in the open air, amid the huts and thickets. A mat was spread for us on the ground by one of them. The Turks of Ura, about fourteen in number, some with long beards, sitting cross-legged, helped to complete the grotesque circle. We were lighted by the moon, then full, and shining in a blue cloudless sky. The Turks smoked, talked, and drank coffee with great gravity, composure, and deliberation. One entertained us with playing on the Turkish guitar, and