with uncouth singing. The thin-voiced women, curious to see us, glided as ghosts across the glades, in white, with their faces muffled. The assemblage and the scene was uncommonly wild, and as solemn as savage.

The attention and knowledge of our guests was wholly confined to agriculture, their flocks and herds. They called the ruin of the temple an old castle, and we inferred from their answers to our inquiries about it, that the magnificence of the building had never excited in them one reflection, or indeed attracted their observation, even for a moment. Our discourse, which was carried on by interpreters, not very expert in the Italian language, soon became languid and tiresome; and the fatigues of the day contributed to render repose and silence desirable.

We retired after supper to one of the huts, which was near the fire, and, like the rest, resembled a soldier's tent, being made with poles inclining, as the two sides of a triangle, and thatched with strawk. It was barely a covering for three persons lying on the ground. The furniture was a jar of salted olives, at the farther end. Our men slept round the fire, and watched some hours for an opportunity to shoot the bull, which twice came near the huts, allured by the cattle. He then changed his haunt, removing to a thicket at a distance, where we frequently saw him, or heard him roar. The weather as yet was clear and pleasant, and the sun powerful. We drooped with heat at noon, but at night experienced cold, and in the morning our thatch was dripping with wet.

The disorders which began to prevail among us, k Reeds. R.

required a speedy exchange of the thickets for some lodging less damp and chilly. We renewed our journey, after two entire days, with satisfaction; leaving the temple at eleven, on a Friday, and travelling nearly south-eastward over low stony land covered with tufts or bushes. Before us was the mountain anciently called Grius, a high craggy range, parallel to mount Latmus; then stretching from the Milesian territory eastward through Caria as far as Euromus, which was on the seacoast, and once a place of some consequence'.

We came in two hours and a half to a deep bay, formerly called Sinus Basilicus, on the south side of Posidium. The road for twenty minutes was on the beach. We tarried under a tree near a small peninsula, on which was a hut or two, while our Turks performed the devotions customary on their sabbath. We then entered between the mountains, the boundary now, as we were told, of the jurisdiction of Elez-Oglu, and anciently of Ionia.

We now return to Scala Nova, or Neapolis.

CHAP. XLV.

OF THE IONIANS THEIR GENERAL ASSEMBLY-PANIONIUM -STORY OF THE CITY HELICE.

On the arrival of the Ionian adventurers from the European continent, the people which before possessed the country retired or were expelled. The

1 Before us-consequence.] Revett has substituted the following words: "On the left hand was the mountain anciently called "Grius; and before us a craggy range which terminated the south "side of a deep bay."

Carians had settled about Miletus, Mycale, and Ephesus; and the Leleges on the side toward Phocæa. Their sepulchres and castles, with vestiges of their towns, remained for many ages, and some are perhaps even now extant.

The Ionian cities on the continent were, as has been mentioned, ten in number, not reckoning Smyrna. These, with Chios and Samos, gloried in their name; and to preserve the memory of their common origin, to promote amity and concord, and to facilitate their union for mutual defence, when occasion should require, instituted a general assembly, in which their deputies or representatives had power to propose and enact decrees, to debate and to determine on the interests of the community.

The place, where this famous council, called the Panionian, met, was on the coast named Trogilia, three stadia, or a quarter of a mile and a half, from the shore. It was a portion of mount Mycale, named Panionium, fronting the north, in the territory of Priene, selected by the Ionic body, and consecrated to Neptune Heliconius. The cities jointly sacrificed to that deity at the season of the congress. The ceremony is represented on the reverse of a medallion of the emperor Gallus, struck by the Colophonians. The thirteen deputies are there seen, each with his right hand uplifted, or in the act of supplication, standing round an altar, with fire, and a bull before the image and templem. If the victim lowed while dragging to the altar, it was deemed a good omen.

The Prieneans were descended from the Ionians

m See Museum C. Albani, vol. ii. pl. 80. and p. 42. The deity is there supposed to be Apollo Clarius.

of Helice in Achaia, and introduced the worship of this god. They had petitioned their mother-city to transmit to them an image of him, and a plan of his temple, intending to erect one on the same model, but were refused. They then obtained from the Achæan community a decree in their favour; and Helice not complying with it, Neptune, it is related, grew angry, and in the following winter that city was swallowed up by an inundation of the sea and an earthquake. This event happened in the night, two years before the battle of Leuctra. The Achæans then delivered to the Ionians the plan they had requested. A young man was appointed by the Prieneans to preside at the rites, as sacrificing king, during the festival.

CHAP. XLVI.

WE SET OUT FROM SCALA NOVA-SEPARATE AND LOSE OUR WAY-BENIGHTED ON MOUNT MYCALE-GOATHERDS-TO CHANGLEE TO PANIONIUM-TO KELIBESH,

IN going from Scala Nova toward Miletus, as related in a preceding chapter, we had in view on the right hand the coast called Trogilia, and the promontory. We then passed Priene, that journey having for its principal object the temple of Apollo Didymæus. On our second arrival at Scala Nova from Ephesus, we resolved to proceed to Priene by Changlee, or as was supposed, Panionium. That village is distant about three hours from Scala Nova. We stopped at the khan, while our men purchased provisions; and set forward, at four in the afternoon, with a guide from the town, who put us into the road,

which we have mentioned as leading toward the sea, and then returned.

We passed, after descending to the water-side, along the edge of the bay, and near a ruined castle on a hill in the plain. Our janizary was mounted on a free horse, and we, to keep pace with him, separated from our servants, who followed with our baggage behind ". It was dusk, and Changlee lying up from the sea, escaped our observation. We expected to arrive there every minute, and rode on, until we came to the foot of mount Mycale, and the beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we discovered a track with a gate before it, and went on, not doubting but the village was near. Steep succeeded steep; the way slippery, uneven, often winding about vast chasms, or close by the brink of tremendous precipices, with the sea rolling beneath.

We were benighted and perplexed, the track not being distinguishable, though the moon began to shine. We dismounted to lead our horses, when the janizary, who was a fat bulky man, and distressed by the bushes which entangled in his long garments, bemoaned his situation in broken Italian, with the most plaintive accents. We still persevered, suffering now from thirst even more than from fatigue, and at length heard the sound of water in a nook below us, when the moments seemed hours as we descended to it. After. this refreshment we pushed on as well as we could, expecting to meet soon with some house or village, and commiserating

n Mr. Chandler rode off full speed, we knew not why; our janizary seeing that, followed him, and we the janizary, being unwilling to break company, and left our servants and baggage behind. R.