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Turk occupying the site, we employed the Hungarian to treat with him for admission; but he affirmed we could see nothing; and added, that there was his haram, or the apartment of his women, which was an obstacle not to be surmounted. It had six columns in front, and the whole number had been twenty-two.

On the hill, and not far from the basement of the temple, is a column of the Corinthian order, standing, with a flat-roofed cottage, upon a piece of solid wall. It has supported a statue, and on the shaft is an inscriptions. "The people have erected Me

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nander, son of Ouliades, son of Euthydemus, a be"nefactor to his country, and descended from bene"factors." The Turk, who lived in the cottage, readily permitted a ladder to be placed on the terrace for measuring the capital, which was done as expeditiously as possible, but not before we were informed that several of the inhabitants murmured because their houses were overlooked. Besides this, two fluted columns of the Ionic order remained not many years since.

Euthydemus, the ancestor of Menander, was contemporary with Augustus Cæsar. He was of an illustrious family, and possessed an ample patrimony. He was eloquent, and not only great in his own country, but respected as the first person of Asia Minor. His power was so advantageous to the city, that, if it savoured of tyranny, the odium was overcome by its utility. Hybreas concluded an oration with telling him he was a necessary evil. This demagogue, who succeeded Euthydemus, had inherited

Inscript. Ant. p. 27.

only a mule and its driver, employed then, as many now are, in bringing wood from the mountains for saleh!

Beneath the hill, on the east side of the town, is an arch or gateway of marble, of the Corinthian order. On the keystone of the exterior front, which is eastward, we observed a double hatchet, as on the two marbles near Myusi. It was with difficulty we procured ladders to reach the top; and some were broken before we could find three sufficiently long and strong for our purpose. The going up, when these were united, was not without danger. The aga had expressed some wonder at our employment, as described to him; and seeing one of my companions on the arch, from a window of his house, which was opposite, pronounced him, as we were told, a brave fellow, but without brains. We desired him to accept our umbrella, on his sending to purchase it for a present to a lady of his haram, who was going into the country. By the arch was a fountain, to which women came with earthen pitchers for water, and with their faces muffled.

We saw a broad marble pavement, with vestiges of a theatre, near the Corinthian column. Toward the centre of the town we observed a small pool of water, and by it the massive arches of some public edifice. In the court of the aga's house was an altar much ornamented. We found an altar likewise in the streets, and a pedestal or two half buried, with pieces of ancient wall. Round the town are ranges of broken columns, the remnants of porticoes, now, with rubbish, bounding the vineyards. A large portion of the plain is covered with scattered fragments, h Strabo, p. 659. i Heraclea. R.

and with piers of ordinary aqueducts; besides inscriptions, mostly ruined and illegible. Some altars dedicated to Hecatomnus have been discovered.

About a quarter of a mile from the town is a sepulchrek, of the species called by the ancients distega, or double-roofed. It consisted of two square rooms. In the lower, which has a doorway, were deposited the urns with the ashes of the deceased. In the upper, the relations and friends solemnized the anniversary of the funeral, and performed stated rites. A hole made through the floor was designed for pouring libations of honey, milk, or wine, with which it was usual to gratify the manes or spirits. The roof is remarkable for its construction; but two stones are wanting, and some distorted. It is supported by pillars of the Corinthian order, fluted, some of which have suffered from violence, being hewn near the bases, with a view to destroy the fabric for the iron and materials. The shafts are not circular, but elliptical1; and in the angular columns square. The reason is, the sides, which are now open, were closed with marble pannels; and that form was necessary to give them a due projection. The inside has been painted blue. This structure is the first object, as you approach from Iasus, and stands by the road. The entrance was on the farther side, the

k See a similar edifice in Mountfaucon, t. 5. Tab. 27.

1 See a column described as singular by Tournefort, p. 339. See Pococke, p. 56.

This fabric was ornamented with half columns both without and within, and their shafts being formed of one piece, to which is added the thickness of the pannels that enclosed them, give them the appearance of being elliptical, which has produced this mistake. R.

ascent to it probably by a pair of steps, occasionally applied and removed.

Going down from this building, and turning from Mylasa, westward, you have the mountain on the right hand, and come, in about an hour, to another sepulchre. This is cut in the rock, high up in the side, near the top, and very difficult of access. Within the doorway on each side is a seat or bench, on which, it is likely, the urns were placed; and beyond is a smaller camera, or arched room. Over the entrance, without, is carved in basso relievo a façade; two Tuscan pillars between two pilasters, with an entablature and pediment, and a door. The slope of the mountain has been covered with innumerable sepulchres. In this the Swiss, as he told us, had persevered, digging for three nights, hoping to find some hidden treasure.

Jupiter, called by a local name Hosogo or Hogoas, had in the city a temple, in which was a well of seawater. Jupiter, styled Carius, had also a temple, which was common to the Carians, and Lydians, and Mysians, as the same people. This was not in the town, but had once a village near it. On a steep abrupt rock, in sight from Mylasa, to the south, and distant an hour and three quarters, crossing the plain, is a ruined town called Paitshin, and a castle, which was repaired as a strong hold against Soley Bey. Part of the wall of this fortress, in which were a few cannon, stands on a flight of marble steps, probably belonging once to the latter temple. Near it are many deserted mosques and buildings, and a ruined church still used by the Greeks. The site of the former temple might perhaps be discovered, if diligent inquiry were made in the town for its well.

The Mylasians were the proprietors of the famous Jupiter of Labranda. The gateway m, on which his symbol, a double hatchet, is carved, was probably that leading to his temple, which was at a distance from the city. The god often occurs on medals, holding the hatchet. Hercules, it is related, killed the Amazon Hippolyte, and gave this, her weapon, to Omphale, queen of Lydia. From her it descended to the kings her successors, and was used as an ensign of royalty. Candaules delivered it, to be carried by one of his officers. Arselis, with auxiliaries from Mylasa, joining Gyges, when he revolted, slew Candules and the hatchet-bearer, and returned into Caria laden with spoils. He made a statue of Jupiter, and placed the hatchet in his hand".

CHAP. LVII.

TO ESKI-HISSAR-REMAINS OF STRATONICEA-ITS HISTORY -MOUNT TAURUS-TEMPLES OF HECATE AND JUPITERINSCRIPTIONS-INTRODUCTION OF TOBACCO AND COFFEE INTO TURKEY-ANSWER TO A QUERY.

THE merchants preparing to leave Mylasa, and telling us we should find ruins at Eski-hissar, where they should stop next, we agreed to accompany them to that place, distant six hours eastward. We crossed the plain, with a long train of mules carrying their goods and servants, and ascended a mountain of veined marble, when the track became very steep and rough, winding by vast precipices. The slopes were covered with large firs and pines, many scorch

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