out gratefully blessing the name and memory of the founder.

The method of obtaining the necessary supplies of water used by the ancients still prevails. It is by conveying the fluid from the springs or sources, which are sometimes very remote, in earthen pipes or paved channels, carried over the gaps and breaks in the way on arches. When arrived at the destined spot, it is received by a cistern with a vent; and the waste current passes below from another cistern, often an ancient sarcophagus or coffin. It is common to find a cup of tin or iron hanging near by a chain; or a wooden scoop with a handle, placed in a niche in the wall. The front is of stone or marble; and in some, painted and decorated with gilding, and with an inscription in Turkish characters in relievo.

The women resort to the fountains by their houses, each with a large two-handled earthen jar on their back, or thrown over the shoulder, for water. They assemble at one without the village or town, if no river be near, to wash their linen, which is afterwards spread on the ground or bushes to dry. To these also the Turks and Greeks frequently repair for refreshment; especially the latter on their festivals, when whole families are seen sitting on the grass, and enjoying their early or evening repast, beneath the trees, by the side of a rill. And at those near the roads, the traveller, sunburnt and thirsty, after a scorching ride, finds cool water, the shelter of a plane or of some spreading tree, and a green plat to repose or dine on; affording him a degree of pleasure not adequately conceived, unless by those who have experienced it.

We agreed to let the heat of noon be passed before we proceeded on our voyage. A carpet was spread for us under a shady holme, and a fire kindled at some distance. We now received each a lighted pipe and a dish of coffee. A kettle was then filled with water, and some fowls, which we had provided, made ready to be boiled. The French consul, who had joined us, undertook to furnish grapes. His vineyard was a considerable way off toward the town, but two of us, attended by a couple of armed Turks, chose to accompany him. We crossed a kind of heath spread with wild thyme, sage, and low bushes of mastic, to a spot shaded with cypresses, where was a church, as miserable as that we had left, consisting only of loose stones piled for walls, without a roof. It had a well close by. We saw a few trees, some common stubble, and some fields of Turkey wheat, and of sesamus. The soil was parched; but in the centre of the island we found a large tract sheltered by naked barren hills, and green with olive trees and with vines. The grapes hung in numerous clusters, rich and tempting; and we ate freely, being assured the fruit was innocent and even wholesome, especially if plucked before the air within it was rarified by the sun. In about a fortnight the vintage was to commence, when a guard of ten Turks is placed to secure the property from pilferers or pirates. Among the hills, one towers far above the rest, and has on its summit a church or chapel dedicated to St. Elias. The form is conical, and it is seen over the main land of Asia coming down the Hellespont.

On our return to the tree we found the company there had been uneasy at our absence, fearing we

had strayed or were detained by some untoward accident. We dined and slept in the shade; and soon after, the French consul took leave of us. About two in the afternoon we sailed with a brisk gale, steering for Eski-Stamboul, anciently called Troas and Alexandria Troas. The. distance of this city from Tenedos was reckoned forty stadia or five miles. Some of its ruins are in view, standing on an eminence; the uneven summits of mount Ida covered with trees rising beautifully behind.

CHAP. VIII.

FLIGHT OF CRANES-VIEW

OF ALEXANDRIA

TROAS-RE

TURN TO OUR BOAT-MOUNT ATHOS-MANNER OF PASSING THE NIGHT-WAY BACK TO THE RUINS.

On the way from Tenedos we were amused by vast caravans or companies of cranes, passing high in the air from Thrace, to winter, as we supposed, in Egypt. We admired the number and variety of the squadrons, their extent, orderly array, and apparently good discipline. About a quarter after three we landed near the ancient port of Troas.

The

We immediately began a cursory survey of this deserted place; ascending to the principal ruin, which is at some distance from the shore. whole site was overspread with stones and rubbish intermingled with stubble, plantations of cotton and of Turkey wheat, plats of long dry grass, thickets and trees, chiefly the species of low oak, which produces valanea, or the large acorns used in tanning.

i

The husks of which are exported for tanning hides. R.

A solemn silence prevailed, and we saw nothing alive but a fox and some partridges. In the mean time, the Turks, who were left in the wherry, removed about three miles lower down, towards the promontory Lectos, where the beach afforded a station less exposed to the wind, and more secure.

The evening coming on, we were advised to retire to our boat. By the way we saw a drove of camels feeding. We came to a shed, formed with boughs round a tree, to shelter the flocks and herds from the sun at noon; and under it was a peasant, who had an ass laden, besides other articles, with a goatskin containing sour curds, on which, and some brown bread, our Turks made their evening meal. A goatskin, with the hair on, served likewise for a bucket. It was distended by a piece of wood, to which a rope was fastened. He drew for us water from a well not far off, and promised to bring us milk and a kid the next day. We found our cook, a Jew, busy by the seaside preparing supper; his tin kettle boiling over a fire in the open air.

The beauty of the evening in this country surpasses all description. The sky now glowed with the rich tints of the setting sun, which, skirting the western horizon, raised, as it were, up to our view the distant summits of the European mountains. We saw the cone of Athos distinctly, bearing from us 55m. west of north. This top is so lofty, that the sun rising is beheld on it three hours sooner than by the inhabitants of the seacoastk. The shadow of the mountain at the solstice reached into the agora or market-place of Myrina, a town in Lem

k Strabo, p. 331.

nos, which island is distant eighty-seven miles eastward'. The shore is strewed with pumice-stones, once perhaps floating from Ætna or Vesuvius, unless ejected by some nearer volcano". Indeed, the pikes both of Athos and of Tenedos suggest the idea, that their mountains have burned; and it is possible, that these, with many of the islands in this sea, may have been the produce of eruptions, which happened at a period too early to be recorded in history.

We had here no choice, but were forced to pass the night on the beach, which was sandy. The Turks constructed a half-tent for us near our boat with the oars and sail. We now discovered that we had neglected to procure wine and candles at Tenedos. We did not, however, remain in the dark. An extemporary lamp supplied one omission. It was a cotton-wick swimming in oil, on a bit of cork in a drinking-glass, suspended by a string. By this light, the Turks, sitting before us on the ground, cross-legged, endeavoured to amuse us, by teaching us the numbers in their language, or by learning them in English. Some desired us to distinguish each by his name, Mahmet, Selim, Mustapha, and the like. They were liberal of their tobacco, filling their pipes from their bags, lighting and presenting them to us, as often as they saw us unprovided. Our janizary, who was called Baructer Aga, played on a Turkish instrument like a guitar. Some accompanied him with their voices, singing loud. Their favourite ballad contained the praises of Stamboul

Pliny, Nat. Hist. lib. iv. 23.

m A mistake. R.