or on its margin P; and was the boundary of Caria toward Phrygia.

Riding along the bank of the river, we discovered the ruin of an ancient bridge. The remnant was on the farther side, and consists of half of the central arch, with one smaller arch entire. This bridge was probably broken before the year 1244; when an interview being agreed on between the emperor of Nice and the Turkish sultan, the latter passed the river, in his way to Tripolis, on a temporary bridge made of rafts for the occasion.

The existence of Carura, it is likely, was determined by the loss of the passage. We saw no traces of that place; but, going near the ruin, one of our horses turned short, which led us to observe a vein of hot water boiling up out of the ground, like a jetté, some inches perpendicular, and forming a small quagmire. We now enter Phrygia.

CHAP. LXVI.

OUR JOURNEY CONTINUED-TEMPLE OF MEN CARUS-DENISLI-THE TURKS UNCIVILIZED-ARRIVE AT LAODICEA OUR TENT BESET-OUR JANIZARY SEIZED-BEHAVIOUR OF AN AGA-THIEVES-THE WEATHER.

CONTINUING our journey, we lost sight of the river; the plain widened again, and was cultivated, but not enclosed, as before. Messogis was now of a chalky aspect; and the mountain on our right green with trees. We saw a few scattered booths of TurAt four our course inclined to east-south

comans.

P Strabo, p. 578. See Pausanias, p. 241.

east. We observed many jays, and upupas, and a beautiful bird, like a hawk, with blue glossy plumage. We had travelled eight hours and three quarters, when we pitched our tent by a village under a summit 9 covered with snow.

The following day our course was as before, the river not in view. The sun shone very comfortably, and the melted snow ran in dirty rills down the slopes. On the way some stones and vestiges of a building occurred; perhaps of a temple once between Carura and Laodicea, called that of Men Carus 1, and held in high veneration. In Strabo's time a great school of physicians flourished there. The same author has mentioned a temple of Men Ascæus or Arcæus, also in Phrygia. The priesthood, which was dissolved, had possessed a multitude of consecrated servants and holy places. In Armenia was a temple of Men Pharnaces, of vast sanctity; the village resembling a city. The priest received the revenue arising from the sacred servants and territory. These, with another or two noted by Strabo, were likewise temples of Selene. The deity worshipped called by the Romans

in them was, it seems, that Lunus and Luna, or the moon. We arrived at Denisli in four hours.

Denisli is fortified with an ordinary wall, which encloses a few cottages, and resembles Segigeck. The gateway, on our approach, was crowded with men and boys. Our janizary and Swiss tarried there to purchase provisions and other necessaries, while we dismounted in a meadow at a small distance, expecting their return. Our baggage-horses were

4 Cadmus. R.

* Strabo, p. 580. See

P. 557.577.503.

scarcely unloaded, when both rejoined us; the Swiss complaining that the Greeks understood only the Turkish language, in which he was not expert; the other, to inform us we were required by the owner of the ground to change our conác or resting-place. We removed to a tree, under which we dined, by a muddy stream, and were wetted by a smart shower.

We had lately perceived an alteration in the carriage of the Turks; who, in the interior regions, seldom see strangers, and are full of ferocity. A general want of cordiality toward us had been apparent, and some trifling insults we had received on the road were forerunners of more inconvenient incivilities. Some Turks here told us, we had no danger to apprehend on this side of the plain; but if we proceeded to Pambouk, on the farther side, we must be cautious, for the Turcomans in that quarter were robbers and murderers.

We set out again for Eski-hissar, or Laodicea, then distant an hour northward, the way between hills. A Turk, whose dress and mien bespoke him above the common rank, overtook us; and our men inquiring, courteously directed them to a commodious situation for our tent, which we pitched in the evening on a small rising, on the edge of the plain, by the junction of two streams.

We were in general very much fatigued, and about sunset lay down to rest; an Armenian or two watching our horses, which were staked and grazing by the tent. Some time after it was dark, we were suddenly surrounded by armed men, conducted by the Turk who had recommended this spot. Their business was to demand bac-shish for their aga.

They pried into our baggage, prancing their longtailed horses, and threatening if they were not immediately gratified. We were too soundly asleep within the tent to be easily awakened. The Swiss, shaking the relater by the hand, informed him of the quality and importunity of these unwelcome visitants. He was bid to tell their chief, that the aga should be satisfied in the morning; and the janizary urging that the hour was unseasonable, and that we purposed staying, they were prevailed on to depart, taking him with them to pacify their

master.

At the dawn of day a Turk was sent to observe if we were stirring, and the janizary set out with our firhman, and a present of coffee, sugar, and money; but the aga declared he would have at least an hundred and thirty piasters; and Mustapha, pleading our firhman, and presuming to remonstrate, was seized, disarmed, and thrown into prison. In the mean time we were very uneasy at the tent, presaging no good from his long stay. After some hours we saw him coming without his gun, pistol, or sabre; terrified and dejected. He exclaimed, we were among rebels and robbers; that the roads were beset to prevent our escape, and the aga, if we hesitated to comply with his demand, was determined to cut us in pieces, and take possession of our baggage.

The janizary described this aga as uncommonly fierce and haughty, and bade us apprehend the very worst consequences from his intemperance and savage disposition. The impression made on him was communicated to our Armenians, and we all disliked our situation. After a short consultation, I gave

him twenty zechins, affirming truly that we had no money to spare, but might want even that sum before we reached Smyrna. He ventured back, with some reluctance, into the presence of the aga, who was prevailed on to receive it, but with difficulty; and then inquired about our firhman, which he before had refused to hear named. The janizary returned to him again with it, and, after it had been read, he refunded nine of the zechins; believing, as he was told, that we belonged to the English ambassador, and were going from Smyrna to Constantinople, and fearing we might complain there of his behaviour. He now said he would be responsible for our safety.

As soon as this business was adjusted, we began to examine the site of Laodicea, which was close by us. On the first day we were attended by one of the aga's men, a mean, ill-looking fellow, who required a piaster, his pay, and in the evening left us. The janizary, who by that time had slept away his fatigue and chagrin, went back with him to the village, about an hour distant, for his bridle, which had been exchanged for one of no value. We were visited at our tent, during our stay here, by several of the natives and Turcomans, who manifested so savage and bad a disposition, that our men established a regular watch. They stole our pipes, and took even earthen bowls; a species of petty larceny, which exceedingly distressed some of our company.

The Mæander, running between the hill of Laodicea and mount Messogis, divides the plain, which there becomes narrow. Our view eastward was terminated by mountains not very remote. The summits on the south and south-east were covered with