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CHAP. VIII.
Flight of cranes-View of Alexandria Troas-Return to our
boat-Mount Athos-Manner of passing the night-Way back
to the ruins
27
CHAP. IX.
Policy of Alexander the Great-Alexandria Troas-Its situation
-Ports-Appearance-Remains-The principal ruin-In-
scriptions-The aqueduct-Account of it-Of Atticus He-
rodes-No churches visible-The marbles removed
CHAP. X.
31
An accident-At the vineyard-In want of provisions-Are joined
by the owner of the vineyard-In fear of banditti
CHAP. XI.
38
Invited to Chemali-We set out on foot-The hot baths-Ar-
rive at Chemali-Remains of antiquity-Once Colonæ 40
CHAP. XII.
Coast by Troas-Enekioi-Giaurkioi, or Sigeum-Antiquities at
the church-Account of Sigeum-The famous Sigean stone
part of a pilaster-The disposition of the lines on it-Of the
Greek alphabet-Age of the first inscription-Age of the se-
cond-It lies neglected
CHAP. XIII.
44
At Giaurkioi-Prospect of the plain-Farther account of it→
News of the consul-Our plan disconcerted-The evening—
Barrows, of Achilles, &c.-At Chomkali
CHAP. XIV.
49
Land in the Cherronese-A panegyris, or general assembly of
Greeks-Their musicians―Their church-Arrive at the inner
castle-Character of our Turks
53
CHAP. XV.
Our embarrassment-Arrival of an English ship-Its destination
-We embark for Scio-Quick passage
56
CHAP. XVI.
Of Scio-Its modern history-Reduced by the Turks-The town
-Greek women Number of dogs-Manner of bathing—
The consul, &c.-Parties-The wines-The lentiscus, or
mastic-tree-The antiquities-Temple of Cybele
CHAP. XVII.
59
Set sail from Seio-Moor in a creek-Weather cape Kara-
bornu-The inbat-View of Smyrna from the sea- -The Frank
street-The consul's house-Live chameleons
CHAP. XVIII.
68
Origin of Smyrna-The site-Its prosperity-Ruined-The ci-
tadel repaired-The Mahometan and Christian towns-Suc-
cess of Tamerlane-Smyrna reduced by the sultans-The pre-
sent town-The citadel-The stadium and theatre-The port
-The walls-The sepulchres-Consumption of the old ma-
terials-Tomb of St. Polycarp
CHAP. XIX.
72
Smyrna a great mart-The people-Dress of the women-
Buildings-Heat, earthquakes, and plague-Burying-grounds
-Provisions-Musquittoes, or gnats-
CHAP. XX.
80
Of the adjacent country-The river Meles-The inner bay-Old
Smyrna-Ancient sepulchres-Origin of old Smyrna-Story of
Homer-of another poet of Smyrna-The aqueducts-The
cave of Homer-The river-god
CHAP. XXI.
86
The gulf of Smyrna-Menimen―The river Hermus-The strait
-The shoals-The plain of the Hermus-The mouth—Of
Leuce-The extremity of the plain-Of Phocea― Future
changes to be expected
CHAP. XXII.
92
Our firhman-First journey from Smyrna-A tendour-Mildness
of the winter at Smyrna-Return of the cranes-We prepare
for another journey-Rumour of the plague-Confirmed-Our
embarrassment-Our second journey-Method
-
97
CHAP. XXIII.
Seacoast of Ionia-Vourla reputed Clazomene―The olive-groves
-Vestiges of an ancient bridge-The Agamemnonian hot
baths-Their present state-Isthmus of the peninsula―The
dike cut by Alexander-Villages-The town of Vourla
CHAP. XXIV.
102
We search for Clazomene-Discover the mole-Pass over-The
site-Islets-We repass-Origin of Vourla
CHAP. XXV.
107
Of the Kara-borniotes-Mount Mimas-Night-Arrive at Ery-
thræ-The site-Islets-Remains
CHAP. XXVI.
110
Of the peninsula-Chisme-Mount Corycus-Mount Mimas-
End of the peninsula-At Segigeck-Antiquities-Cranes 115
CHAP. XXVII.
Situation of Teos-Remains-The port, &c.-The temple of
Bacchus-Teos deserted-A Venetian vessel
119
CHAP. XXVIII.
To Sevri-hissar-Quarries of marble-The town-The Diony-
siasts, &c.
- 121
CHAP. XXIX.
We arrive at Hypsile-The Myonnesus-Hypsile a strong-hold
CHAP. XXX.
123
Hot waters-In the territory of Lebedus-Some ruins-Lebedus
-The island Aspis-The Dionysiasts
CHAP. XXXI.
125
We cross a torrent-Ascend mount Gallesus-Arrive at Zille, or
Claros-Remains-Of the oracle and temple of Apollo-Of
the oracular fountain and cave-Of Colophon, Notium, and
Claros-No remains of the two former-We arrive at Ephe-
CHAP. XXXII.
Distance of Ephesus from Smyrna-To Sedicui-To the sources
of a river-To Tourbali-Of the Turcomans-Their booths-
To the Cayster-Arrive at Aiasaluck-Relation of a journey
in 1705
134
CHAP. XXXIII.
Aiasaluck-The evening-Remains-The castle-The mosque-
The aqueduct An ancient bridge
CHAP. XXXIV.
140
Aiasaluck not Ephesus-Tamerlane at Aiasaluck-History of the
two places confounded-Origin of Aiasaluck-Thunder-storm
-A flood
144
CHAP. XXXV.
Ephesus-The stadium-The theatre-The odeum, &c.-The
gymnasium-A street-Another-A temple-Square tower-
Extent of the city-Avenues-Prion, a mountain of marble-
A place of burial-The quarries, &c. -
CHAP. XXXVI.
147
Of old Ephesus-The city of the Ionians-An oracle-Of An-
droclus-The city of Lysimachus-The port-Modern history
of Ephesus-Its decline-The present Ephesians-Its deplor-
able condition
157
CHAP. XXXVII.
The Selenusian lakes-A fishery-The Cayster-Road on Gal-
lesus-New land-Port Panormus-The island Syrie
CHAP. XXXVIII.
162
Of the temple of Diana-The idol-Account of it-The priests,
&c.-Self-manifestations of the goddess-An Ephesian decree
The spot chosen for the temple of Diana-Skill of the architects
-The new temple-Its magnificence-The asylum-The tem-
ple not in the city-Plundered-Its destruction unnoticed-
The supposed site-A Sibylline prophecy
169
CHAP. XL.
We leave Aiasaluck-Road to Scala Nova-Of Phygela-Of
Ortygia-The lower way to Scala Nova-Changes-Of Scala
We continue our journey-Mount Mycale and Trogilium—At
Suki-We pass Priene-Perplexed in the plain
CHAP. XLII.
178
The theatre at Miletus-Inscription on the wall-Other remains
-The mosque, &c.-Modern history of Miletus-Its ancient
greatness
- 181
CHAP. XLIII.
The
aga
of Suki-To Ura-To Branchida-Port Panormus-A
water there-Ruin of the temple of Apollo Didymæus-Other
remains
185
CHAP. XLIV.
At the temple-At Ura-Ignorance of the Turks-Their huts-
We continue our journey-The confines of Ionia with Caria
CHAP. XLV.
189
Of the Ionians-Their general assembly-Panionium-Story of
the city Helice
CHAP. XLVI.
191
We set out from Scala Nova-Separate and lose our way-Be-
nighted on mount Mycale-Goatherds-To Changlee-To Pa-
nionium-To Kelibesh
- 193
CHAP. XLVII.
At Kelibesh-Zingari, or gypsies-Women lamenting-Easter-
A phenomenon-Remark
The citadel of Priene-Descent from it-Remains of the city—
The wall and gateways-Taken by Bajazet