PARISH OF ESKDALEMUIR.

PRESBYTERY OF LANGHOLM, SYNOD OF DUMFRIES AND

GALLOWAY.

THE REV. WILLIAM BROWN, D. D. MINISTER.

I. TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.

Boundaries, Topographical Appearance, &c.—THE parish of Eskdalemuir, as its name imports, consists of the lands lying at the head of Eskdale. It is the largest parish in the county of Dumfries, and contains, according to Mr Crawford's map, 33,595 Scots acres, 42,250 English acres, and 66 square miles. The range of mountains that crosses the head of the parish is part of that chain which extends from the source of the Clyde and Annan on the west, to the source of the Tyne in Northumberland on the east, and divides the course of the rivers in this part of Scotland; those to the north running towards Berwick, and those to the south emptying themselves in the Solway Frith. The highest hills in the parish are Lochfell and Etterick, or rather, as it ought to be called, Eskdalemuir Pen; for it is scarcely seen in Etterick, but makes a prominent feature in the scenery of Eskdalemuir. Its height, according to Stobie in his Map of Selkirkshire, is 2200 feet above the level of the sea. The White and Black Esks, so named from the sandy and mossy soils over which they run, take their rise in the parish, and, uniting at the foot of it, form that beautiful river which, after receiving many tributary streams, loses itself in the Solway at Longtown in Cumberland. Although styled a muir, heather is scarcely to be seen in the parish. The hills in sight of the river are green, and the more retired parts are moss, covered with bent (Carices) and other water plants. The soil, owing to the flatness of the grounds, is in many places wet; but it has been much improved during the last forty years by draining.

Hydrography.-There are two cascades worthy of notice ;—the one at the back of Fingland-hill, called Wellsburnspout, of about fifty-six feet, and which, during a heavy rain, covers the rock near

the bottom to the width of forty-nine feet. The Garvald Linns is the other. These are seen by every person going to Garvald. On first leaving the public road that conducts to the head of the parish, the channel of the Garvald water is rocky, and its banks steep; but as these become less so, the attention is gradually withdrawn to other objects. It is when the mind is in this state that the Garvald Linns first present themselves. The effect is what might be expected. One is struck with the grandeur of the scene; vast rocks, rugged precipices, steep banks, covered here and there with mountain-ashes and wild honeysuckle,-and the river now disappearing among the huge masses, and again, as if glad to be disentangled, hurrying on in its course. These form a group which please and astonish the beholder. But to see the Garvald Linns in perfection, you must leave the road to Garvald, and go to the head of the bank, where the scenery is bolder. New rocks are seen, and a beautiful cascade of about eight feet appears.

Meteorology. Since writing my account of the parish to Sir John Sinclair in 1793, I have had time to make many observations on the weather and state of the atmosphere. The following table is formed from a series of observations made for eleven years, at Eskdalemuir manse, every morning at nine o'clock, with a well regulated Fahrenheit's thermometer at a northern exposure. I consider them valuable from their proximity to the chain of mountains abovementioned; and because none have been made (that I know of) nearer than Branxholm on the one hand, and Broomholm on the other.

The south-west and south winds prevail in summer, and the east and north winds in winter.

Geology. The direction of the regular strata, which are of

greywacke and other transition rocks, is from north-east to south

west.

In my report to Sir John Sinclair, I mentioned the letter stones on the farm of Twiglees. They are part of a stratum of amygdaloid, which can be traced from the Shawrigg in the parish of Westerkirk, to Castlehill Craigs. These same letter stones occur at Twiglees Burnhead and Black Esk head Pikes in this parish, a distance of six miles. They lie in a direction different from that of the regular strata, being from south-east to north-west.

II. CIVIL HISTORY.

Historical Events.-I have never been able to learn to whom the lands in Eskdalemuir belonged, prior to the reign of James V. There might be, and were probably, parts granted to one or more proprietors before that time; but tradition says, that in general they were possessed by the clan of Beattieson, from whom the present name of Beattie is derived by no other title than that of occupancy. It is farther stated, that Cardinal Beaton and Robert Lord Maxwell were sent by James as ambassadors to France in the year 1537, to conclude a marriage between the King and Mary of Guise; that Lord Maxwell, by commission, as proxy for the King, married the Queen in France; and that he and the cardinal conducted her to Scotland; for which good service, the King gifted the lands comprehended under the name of the Five Kirks of Eskdale to Lord Maxwell. It may be proper, however, to add, that the Five Kirks, then, were not the same as those comprehended under that name, now; but were Upper and Nether Ewis, Wauchope, Staplegordon, and Westerkirk, which last included Eskdalemuir, before it was erected into a separate parish. Tradition farther says, that, when Lord Maxwell came to take possession of the Eskdalemuir part of the estate (having previously summoned them to meet him at Dumfedling, which, and Staplegordon, were the two baronies of Eskdale, where justice was administered and business transacted,) he offered them rights to their several possessions on certain specified conditions. These, however, they were unwilling to accept of, thinking themselves injured by the King's grant. Words rose high between Lord Maxwell and them,-consultations were held in his absence, and the result might have been fatal,—had not Rolland Beattie of Watcarrick, a prudent man, warned him of his danger, and given him his white mare, which none of them could overtake, to carry him to Branxholm. It is further stated, that,

when at Branxholm, being disgusted with the spirit of the Beatties, he proposed selling the Eskdalemuir part of the estate to Scott of Branxholm, (the ancestor of the family of Buccleuch,) without, however, promising to put him in possession. This Scott of Branxholm readily assented to; and being warden of the middle marches between Scotland and England, he raised his friends, went to Eskdalemuir, and expelled all the clan Beattieson, except Roland Beattie of Watcarrick, to whom Lord Maxwell, out of gratitude for his preservation, had reserved a perpetual tenant-right to his possession, on condition of his paying a certain sum annually. Scott of Branxholm having thus cleared the parish of the Beatties, gave, as was the custom of the times, feu-rights to his relations and dependents, to the greater part of it. I have been favoured with a copy of the division which is said to have been made at the time alluded to, and shall subjoin it, without, however, vouching for its accuracy. Scott of Harden got Over Cassock; Scott of Davington, Upper and Nether Davington, Fingland, and Pentland, Upper and Nether Dumfedling, Nether Cassock, Wester Polclive, Wetwood Rigg, and Burncleugh; Scott of Johnston got Johnston, and Johnston Dinnings, Raeburnfoot, Craighaugh, and Saughhill; Scott of Raeburn, Moodlaw, Raeburnhead, Harewoodhead, Yetbyre and Yards; Scott of Rennelburn, Rennelburn, Aberlosh, Midraeburn, Clerkhill, Greystonelee, Coatt, and Coatthope; Scott of Bailielee, Moodlawknow, Grassyards, Kimmingsyke, Langshawburn, and Crurie; and Scott of Branxholm reserved to himself the upper part of Thickside, Easter Polclive, Garwald Holm, Castlehill, and all Black Esk. It would be a curious inquiry, how far the title-deeds of these several estates give confirmation of, or tend to overthrow, the above tradition.

Land-owners.-These at present are ten in number, the Duke of Buccleuch by far the largest,-his farms making two-thirds of the parish.

Parochial Registers.-The parochial registers reach back to 1703, when Eskdalemuir, formerly a part of the parish of Westerkirk, was erected into a separate parish. They are not voluminous; and have been regularly kept since that time.

Antiquities. In my former Account, I mentioned Castle O'er or Overbie, as a supposed Roman camp, communicating with Middlebie and Netherbie. I am now convinced it is of Saxon origin, and that the true Roman camp of Overbie is on the farm

of Raeburnfoot, about a mile above the church. It is situated on the tongue of land between the houses of Raeburnfoot and the Esk, inclining gently towards the east, and about forty feet above the level of the river. I stumbled upon it accidentally in summer 1810, and am inclined to believe, that I have been fortunate enough to discover the true Roman station in the head of Eskdale. The plan and description, as taken from actual measurement at the time, are as follows.

The most natural approach to the camp is on the south after crossing the Esk at Raeburnfoot, where the length of the outer line, consisting of a ditch and rampart, is as follows:- From the south-west corner, to the entrance into the camp the extent is 120 feet; the entrance is 20 feet; and from the entrance to the south-east corner, 230 feet,-making in all 370 feet. On one side, the ditch is 5 feet deep at an average, and about 20 feet wide; and the rampart on the inside of the ditch is formed of the earth that was taken from the ditch. The ditch on the east side has now filled up; but the rampart is perfectly distinct, and measures thus:-From the south-east corner to the entrance into the camp on that side is 240 feet; the entrance itself is 20 feet; and from the entrance to the north-east corner is 330 feet; making 590 feet in all. On the north side, the ditch is both deeper and wider than we found it to be on the south side; for, in place of being 5 feet deep, and 20 feet wide, it is 12 feet deep, and 30 feet wide, to defend the camp the more effectually from any attack from the hill, which on this side begins to rise above the camp. It is for the same reason that the line on this side is longer than the line on that side; for, in place of being 370 feet, it is 440, and divided thus :—From the north-east corner to the entrance, is a space of 270 feet; the entrance itself is 20 feet; and from the entrance to the north-west corner is 150 feet. The ditch and rampart on the west side are evidently worn away by the river; for there is a steep bank on that side, and the form of the camp is evidently incomplete. Happily, however, for the antiquary, the spirit of the stream seems to have repented of his intrusion, and has now retired to a considerable distance. The length, therefore, and subdivisions on that side are as follows:From the north-west corner to the outer ditch of the prætorium is a space of 110 feet. The outer ditch is 10 feet wide, and about 3 feet deep. There is a rampart between the outer and inner ditch of 10 feet wide at the base, and about 3 feet high. The