another large house commonly called Cromwell House, which was popularly connected with the Protector and with his secretary John Thurloe. It was probably the "fair large house" built by Sir Thomas Chaloner, distinguished alike as statesman, soldier, and writer in the great Elizabethan days. He died here in 1565, and was buried in St. Paul's with great solemnity. Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, lived in what was afterwards known as Coppice Row, the site of his house being marked by Cobham Road and the sign of the Cobham's Head. Bishop Burnet lived on the west side of St. John's Square in a house which remained till 1876, when it was pulled down to make way for the new street from Oxford Street to Old Street. The Red Bull Theatre stood in Woodbridge Street. By Clerkenwell Green was a more notorious place of entertainment, Hockley-in-the-Hole. Sadlers' Wells Theatre, at the Islington end of Clerkenwell, was built on the site of one of the wells or conduits for which Clerkenwell was noted. By another, the Ducking Pond, visited by Pepys, and afterwards known as the London Spa, was erected in 1770 a circular building, with a conical roof, surmounted with a statue of Apollo, called the Pantheon, which as a tea and music room attained considerable notoriety, and later a better reputation as the Spa Fields Chapel of the Countess of Huntingdon. All these places are noticed more fully under their respective headings. Eminent Inhabitants. Besides those mentioned above, John Weever, antiquary, died here in 1632, and was buried in the church of St. James. His epistle before his Funeral Monuments is dated "from my house in Clerkenwell Close, this 28th of May, 1631." Duke and Duchess of Newcastle. William Cavendish and his second wife, Margaret Lucas, of the time of Charles I. [See Newcastle House.]

May 10, 1667.-Drove hard towards Clerkenwell, thinking to have overtaken my Lady Newcastle, whom I saw before us in her coach, with 100 boys and girls looking upon her.-Pepys.

Isaak Walton came to live here about 1650. He wrote in his family Prayer-book, "My last son Isaac, born September 7, 1651, was baptized in the evening in my house in Clerkenwell." This agrees with the register of St. James's Church. Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury; he died at his house in St. John's Square, March 17, 1715. Emmanuel Swedenborg died in his lodgings, No. 26 Bath Street, Cold Bath Fields, March 17, 1792. Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, died at her house next Spa Fields Chapel, June 17, 1791. John Britton, the antiquary, was apprenticed "to Mr. Mendham of the Jerusalem Tavern, Clerkenwell Green," for six years, to learn the art and mystery of a wine merchant; those years of what he designates his "legal slavery" being spent chiefly in the wine-cellar. Of Clerkenwell he writes :

The parish of Clerkenwell was very different when I first visited it in 1787 to what it is at the time of writing this paragraph in 1850. The church, which now stands at the junction of the Close and the Green, was not then erected; but in its place was the church of the old Monastic Priory, with parts of the Cloisters, etc. Spa Fields, from the south end of Rosoman Street to Pentonville, and from St. John Street Road to the Bagnigge Wells Road, were really fields, devoted to the pasturage of cows,

and to a forest of elm trees; not standing and adorned with foliage in the summer, but lying on the ground to the southward of the New River Head, being destined to convey water in their hollow trunks to the northern and western parts of London, in combination with similar pipes laid under the roadways of the streets. Old Clerkenwell Prison, now replaced by "the New Prison," was comparatively a small building; and the large edifice called the Middlesex House of Correction, in Cold Bath Fields, was not commenced. Within Clerkenwell Close were three or four old and spacious mansions with gardens, formerly occupied by wealthy personages. That called Newcastle House, once belonging to the Dukes of Newcastle, was a large brick building, used as the dwelling and workshops of a cabinet-maker and upholsterer. Opposite was another spacious mansion popularly called Cromwell House. . . . Sadlers' Wells; the Islington Spa; Merlin's Cave, and Bagnigge Wells Tea Gardens and Ballroom were all places of crowded resort in my apprentice days. On Clerkenwell Green I witnessed a man pilloried and pelted; and in Red Lion Street another flogged at a cart's tail.-Britton's Autobiography, vol. i. p. 62.

In earlier times Clerkenwell Green seems to have been a common place of punishment.

1538.—The Sonday after Bartelmew Day, was one Cratwell, hangman of London, and two persons more, hanged at the wrestlyng place on the backesyde of Clerkenwel besyde London, for robbyng of a boothe in Bartholomew fayre, at which execution was about twentie thousand people as I myself judged.-Edward Hall's Chronicle, p. 826 (reprint).

Britton speaks of the changes made in Clerkenwell during the sixtythree years that had passed since he first knew it. Still greater changes have been made in the forty years that have since elapsed, especially by what are called the Clerkenwell Improvements, the construction of the Metropolitan Railway, and the formation of Farringdon Road and Clerkenwell Road, which have swept away Mutton Hill, Saffron Hill and the connected streets, Coppice Row and Ray Street, and divided St. John's Square in two.

Clerkenwell was for long the great centre of the working watchmakers, clockmakers, and jewellers of London. Every street was in a greater or less degree occupied by workers in some of the many subdivisions of these or connected trades (as lapidaries, hairworkers, etc.) The British Horological Institute has erected, 1879, a handsome building in Northampton Square, with lecture theatre and classrooms for the higher technical instruction of artisans in the watch and clock trades. The two parish churches, St. James by Clerkenwell Green and St John in St. John's Square, are noticed under those headings. More recent district churches are St. Mark's, Myddelton Square; St. Philip's, Granville Square; and St. Peter's, St. John Street Road, a fantastic French-Gothic pile, erected in 1871 as "the Smithfield Martyrs' Memorial Church;" and the Church of the Holy Redeemer (consecrated 1888) built on the site of Spa Fields Chapel. Clerkenwell Sessions House, Clerkenwell Green; the Clerkenwell House of Detention, Corporation Row; and the House of Correction, Cold Bath Fields, have separate notices.

Clerkenwell House of Detention, at the north-east end of Clerkenwell Close, occupies the site of the New Prison, which, dating

L

The

from the 17th century, was rebuilt in 1775 and again in 1818. present prison was erected in 1845-1846 from the designs of Messrs Moseley, architects, at a cost of nearly £30,000, but it has since under gone alterations and enlargement. It was appropriated to the detention of prisoners awaiting trial at the assizes. On the afternoon of December 13, 1867, a barrel of gunpowder was exploded against the east wall of the prison, in the hope of making a breach in the wall through which two Fenian prisoners confined under remand on that side of the prison might make their escape. The breach was made, but, in consequence of a warning conveyed anonymously, the prisoners had been removed to another part of the prison. The consequences of this dastardly outrage outside the prison were most disastrous. A row of small houses opposite was shattered, and many others greatly injured. Six persons were killed and fifty wounded, all belonging to the poorer class, and several being women and children. It was in Clerkenwell Prison that Smollett represents Humphrey Clinker as haranguing the prisoners. The prison was closed in accordance with the provisions of the Prisons Act of 1877, by which the old obligations of the county and other local authorities in regard to prisons were abolished.

Clerkenwell Road. That portion of the new road formed by the Metropolitan Board of Works to connect New Oxford Street, by way of Hart Street, with the Old Street Road and Shoreditch. The portion from the Farringdon Road to Goswell Road has been named Clerkenwell Road. It passes south of the Sessions House, crosses St. John's Square, and converts the narrow passage formerly known as Wilderness Row into a wide street by taking a slice off the north side of the Charter House Gardens. The Holborn Union Offices, in red brick, were built in 1886.

Clerkenwell Sessions House, CLERKENWELL GREEN, was built under powers of an Act obtained by the Magistrates of Middlesex in 1779, to enable them to remove their Sessions from Hicks's Hall, St. John Street, to a more suitable building to be erected by them on Clerkenwell Green. The first stone of the new building was laid August 20, 1779; and it was opened July 1, 1782. The architect was Mr. Thos. Rogers. The chief features of the exterior are the east front with its pediment borne on Ionic columns and the dome over the hall; of the interior the court. The building, which was cramped and inconvenient, was "reconstructed" in 1860, under Mr. F. H. Pownall, architect, and has been "improved" since. The county arms in the tympanum of the pediment, the medallions under the entablature, and the panels inside are by Nollekens, the sculptor, but they are mere contract work.

Cleveland Court, ST. JAMES'S, a short passage running out of Cleveland Row, opposite St. James's Palace, was so called after Cleveland House, the London residence of the Duchess of Cleveland, mistress of Charles II. Charles Jervas, the painter, died here November 2,

1739. In the supplementary volume to Roscoe's Pope (p. 114) there is a letter addressed "To Mr. Pope; to be left with Mr. Jervasse, at Bridgewater House, in Cleveland Court."

Here Pope took lessons of Jervas in portrait painting.

April 30, 1717.-I have been almost every day employed in following your advice in learning to paint, in which I am most particularly obliged to Mr. Jervas, who gives me daily instructions and examples.-Pope to Caryll, Elwin's Pope, vol. vi. p. 183.

June 12, 1713.-I shall stay in town yet this fortnight, or thereabouts, in which time if you come you will find me in the close pursuit of the advice you gave me three months since, painting at Mr. Jervas's in Cleveland Court, by St. James's. I generally employ the mornings this way.-Pope to Caryll, Elwin's Pope, vol. vi. p. 186.

1

"My masterpieces," he writes two or three months later, "have been one of Dr. Swift and one of Mr. Betterton," but before succeeding so far he had "thrown away three Dr. Swifts, two Duchesses of Montague, one Virgin Mary, the Queen of England, half a score Earls and a Knight of the Garter." He stayed at Jervas's house, and several of his letters are dated from Cleveland Court. In Cleveland Court at Mrs. Selwyn's (mother of George) took place the personal scuffle between Walpole and Townshend, the original of the celebrated quarrel scene between Peacham and Lockit, in the Beggars' Opera. George Selwyn died here, January 25, 1791, in his seventy-second year. Gilly Williams died at his house in Cleveland Court, November 28, 1805, aged eighty-six.

August 24, 1768.—At our return we [Mrs. Delany and Duchess of Portland] went to my Lord Carlisle's in Cleveland Court (nobody in town) to see the King of Denmark, who is in Lord Bath's old house at St. James's, and opposite to Lord Carlisle's (I should have said Sir W. Musgrave's).-Delany Correspondence, vol. iv. p. 150.

Cleveland House, ST. JAMES's.

Formerly one large House, and called Berkshire House; which, being purchased by the Duchess of Cleveland [Charles II.'s mistress], took her name; now severed into several houses, the chief of which is now inhabited by the Earl of Nottingham. -Strype, B. vi. p. 78.

The Earl of Nottingham was living here in 1691; and here Bentley addresses a letter to his chaplain, the learned W. Wotton.

December 4, 1679.-I dined, together with Lord Ossorie and the Earl of Chesterfield, at the Portugal Ambassadors, now newly come to Cleaveland House, a noble palace too good for that infamous. . .-Evelyn.

The name survives in Cleveland Court and Cleveland Row.3 The house was first bought by the Duke of Bridgewater, on the death of Charles Fitzroy, Duke of Cleveland and Southampton, in 1730, altered and refaced, and called Bridgewater House.

Cleveland Row, ST. JAMES's, the passage in front of St. James's Palace, forming the continuation westward of Pall Mall. Mason, the poet, in 1767 brought his bride to Cleveland Row. He writes 1 Elwin's Pope, vol. vi. p. 193.

2 Bentley's Correspondence, vol. ii. p. 739.

3 There is a view of the house, by J. T. Smith, dated 1795.

to Gray (February 2), "We have changed our lodgings, and are to be found at Mr. Mennis's, a tailor, at the Golden Ball in Cleveland Row, the last door but one nearest the Green Park Wall." When Henry Flood, the Irish orator, held a seat in the British House of Commons (1784) he resided in Cleveland Row. Admiral Sir Sidney Smith was living here in 1809. In 1827 Theodore Hook, encouraged by the success of the John Bull, hired a large house in Cleveland Row from Lord Lowther, at £200 a year, and borrowed two or three thousand pounds to lay out in furniture. This was just outside what he describes as 66 The real London—the space between Pall Mall on the south and Piccadilly on the north, St. James's Street on the west and the Opera House on the east."

Cleveland Square, at the west end of Cleveland Row. Here is Bridgewater House. At No. 3 (Viscount Sydney's), one of the two other houses in this square, Lord Castlereagh was living in 1803.

Cleveland Street, a long street extending from Euston Road to Mortimer Street, Middlesex Hospital. On the east side is a building, formerly the Strand Union Workhouse, which was taken in 1874 for the Central London Sick Asylum Infirmary. A considerable portion of the west side of the street, going up from Mortimer Street, is occupied by the new buildings of the Middlesex Hospital. On the opposite side several houses have been rebuilt as flats. The studio of the P.R.B. (Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood), which consisted of Millais, Holman Hunt, and Rossetti, was situated in this street. (Paper on the P.R.B. by Holman Hunt in Contemporary Review, vol. xlix. p. 737, 1886.) In a previous number Mr. Hunt had inadvertently stated that the studio was in Gower Street.

Clifford's Inn, by the side of St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet Street, and leading on the left to Old Serjeant's Inn and Chancery Lane, and on the right to Fetter Lane, an Inn of Chancery appertaining to the Inner Temple, so called after Robert de Clifford, to whom the messuage was granted by Edward II. in the third year of his reign. (1310); and by whose widow, in the 18th (1344) of Edward III., the messuage was let to students of the law, for £10 annually. In the reigns of Henry IV. and Henry V. it was an independent school for the study of the law, not connected with, or subject to the Temple. In the reign of Elizabeth there were one hundred students in term and twenty students out of term.

This house hath since fallen into the King's hands, as I have heard, but returned again to the Cliffords, and is now [1598] let to the said students for four pounds by the year. Stow, p. 146.

I embrace their opinion, which hold it to have been the house of the ancient Lord Cliffords, ancestors of the Earls of Cumberland, for the antique building of it, and the auncient and honorable coates of arms set up in the hall and other places in the house, shew it to have bin the mansion of a noble personage. The armes of this

house bee the armes of the auncient founders thereof, the Lord Cliffords, by the customary licence, viz., Checky, Or and Azure, a fesse and bordure gules, Besante sable.-Sir George Buc, in Howes, ed. 1631, p. 1075.