the camp with a very strong force, and proceeded to throw shot and shell into the insurgent position. The firing was distinctly heard for an hour and a half, after which the enemy is supposed to have discovered that the bird had flown.

CHAPTER X.

LEMBERG.

ON April 18th I set out from Cracow, and on May 11th reached Lemberg, distant as the crow flies some 210 miles, as the rail runs, some 240, twenty-three days out. I, who neither followed the line of the crow nor of the rail, but took a circuitous route along the Russian frontier, visiting whatever was to be seen on the road, may have increased the distance to 350 miles. Having been upwards of three weeks on the road, subsisting on the most meagre allowance of clean linen-only as much as could be crammed into saddle-bags-I was not sorry once more to reach civilization and clean shirts, for my baggage had preceded me to Lemberg. I know not what may be the experience of other travellers, but I always find myself at home wherever my portmanteau has gone on ahead to prepare the way before me. one revels in one's washing, and change of clothes, after arriving weary and dust-begrimed, having worn the same garments for a month. As one sallies forth after one's bath, one feels as if one had never been clean before, and as if every one else in the world was dirty.

How

The traveller, as he descends the steep slopes which conduct him to the town, has Lemberg stretched out like a sheet before him. The impression conveyed by the first view of the place is very striking, and you can see at a glance that it must have had a history. It is not

one of those featureless masses of houses, such as are to be met with by the hundred in the northern parts of Germany, where the faces of the inhabitants seem to reflect the dulness of their towns. Lying in a deep basin, out of the centre of which conical hills crop up here and there, Lemberg is at any moment at the mercy of the Austrian cannon, which bristle on every height. For bombarding purposes the Austrians could not have made a happier selection when they fixed the seat of government at Lemberg, and the inhabitants are not likely soon to forget the bloody days of November, 1848. On the other hand, it is but fair to the Austrian Government to state that, when Cracow was made a free city by the treaty of Vienna, there was barely any other course open to them than to fix on Lemberg as the seat of the government of Galicia. The one feature, however, which is necessary to the prosperity of every city is not to be found at Lemberg, and the absence of any sort of river is a want which nothing can remedy. Cracow, on the silent-flowing Vistula, the river of Poland, which winds beneficently through the heart of the present Kingdom of Poland, will ever remain, to the Polish inhabitants of Galicia, the true capital of the province. In vain may the Austrians wantonly insult the national feeling by converting into a fortress the mound which the Poles raised to the memory of Kosciuszko, and by immuring within the citadel the cathedral which contains the tombs of Sobieski, Poniatowski, and other Polish heroes; in spite of all the German can do, Cracow will faithfully guard the memories committed to her, and remain Polish to the last.

Above all the other heights which look down on

Lemberg, the Wysoki Zamek towers high into the air. On this giddy elevation, a thousand years ago, old "Lew," or Leo, built him a castle, and gave his name to the town "Leopol," or "Lemberg," which grew up at the feet of his stronghold. The struggle which was carried on on the Rhine, and in Western Europe generally, between the robber barons and the burghers of the towns, was repeated at Lemberg, and the descendants of old Leo saw one by one their cherished monopolies torn from them, till their castle tumbled about their ears, and the family of Lew soon became extinct. Now a few crumbling walls mark the spot whence the proud barons looked down on the dwellings of the burghers, whom they regarded with mingled hatred and contempt, while the shady alleys which wind up the hill-side have become the haunts of nursemaids, children, and soldiers.

In spite of the disadvantage which Lemberg must ever labour under, compared with other capitals which can boast of a river, its peculiar position, that of one of the stepping-stones over which the commerce of the East had to pass on its way to Western Europe, caused a flourishing trade to spring up, and in the 15th and 16th centuries Lemberg could already boast of great wealth. The prosperity of the place could not fail to attract invaders, and the Tartars, Turks, and Swedes successively ravaged the town. Now little else than the names of the streets remain to mark the palmy days when the Venetians, Pisans, and Genoese had their consulates at Lemberg. At the present day the trade of the town is insignificant to the last degree, and a single iron manufactory is the only extensive industrial establishment.

The Austrian Government looks with jealous eyes on any scheme which has for its object the regeneration of Galicia; and when lately an enterprising Pole wished to employ native industry by establishing a large cloth manufactory, he was informed by the Government that he was at perfect liberty to do so, but that every piece of cloth must be sent in the first instance to Vienna to be stamped.

Where the heights round Lemberg are free of forts they are crowned by churches or convents, and the dome of the cathedral of St. George-the patron saint of the Ruthenians-rising out of the rich foliage of the garden of the Jesuits, is the first object which meets the eye of the traveller as he drives from the railway to his hotel. With its Latin, United Greek, and Armenian archbishops, its numerous religious seminaries, and hills, on which monasteries, convents, and churches seem to grow to seed, there is much at Lemberg to remind the traveller of the Eternal City, and if he could but transplant the vines, he might imagine himself wandering on the Aventine, Celian, or Esquiline.

Such is Lemberg, and a place well worthy of a visit ; yet I much question if there are a hundred persons in England who have any distinct notion where Lemberg is, and I think most travellers would have shared my surprise to find there a society in all respects as polished as at Paris or London, with its dinner parties, clubs, races, salons, photographic albums, and other necessities of modern civilization.

Here again I must draw the attention of the reader to the subject of the Jews, who should always be taken for granted, if not specially mentioned, in speaking or