every hue; buttons and lace; apples, eggs, and scarlet peppers,-in short, it would be endless to mention all they do sell in those Wallachian repositories, and scarcely possible to mention what they do not. Dress seems the prevailing passion here amongst high and low; many of the women we saw in those rude shops possess real Cashmere shawls and rich sable furs, and even their merino petticoats of different bright colours, and their open pelisses of the same stuff, lined with fur, must be very expensive. An Albanian servant here, in the service of the English consul, purchased a new dress lately; it took two months to have it embroidered; he went to see it every day, and paid for it

the sum of twenty pounds. This man is now far from well, and if not soon better, must leave his situation; and his master had to advance him money the other day to pay a physician. He has not laid by a single farthing."

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CHAPTER XV.

"Monday, November 7.

"WE went this morning at ten o'clock to the church of St. Demetrius, where we saw high mass performed, and the Wallachians kiss the hand of the saint. This Demetrius was a holy man of old, who fell into the river here, the Dimbovitzo. At the moment of his fall a blue light was seen to ascend towards heaven, but no one was able to raise the body from the water, till it was revealed to a child in a vision, that she was appointed by heaven for this purpose, which she effected with ease; and the body is now laid out in a coffin of rich silver workmanship, and covered with cloth of gold, the black withered hand alone exposed to view. We accompanied

the younger Princess G, and went up to the gallery, where, from behind a screen, we saw the whole Greek service performed. The church was lighted up, the dresses of the priests were most splendid, and the music was pretty, though the voices were not remarkably good. A chair of state, with a canopy of richly carved work, was occupied by the Prince of Wallachia, who sat with his nobles around him. After mass, he was the first that advanced to kiss the hand of the saint. A carpet was spread in front of the platform on which the coffin was placed; the priests in their splendid robes advanced first, and ranged themselves on each side of the coffin; the bishop, a most dignified looking old man, with a flowing beard, white as snow, and robes of purple and gold, held a richly embossed silver salver in his hand, on which was the wafer. The prince then came forward, kissed the carpet three times, then the hand of the saint, then the cross, and lastly partook of the sacrament. It made us shudder to look upon it. All his attendants advanced in their turn, and lastly, the peasantry. We observed that some of them did

not receive the sacrament, but most of them did. We then went down below with the princess, and accompanied her when she advanced to kiss Demetrius's hand. One of the priests observing our stedfast gaze, lifted the embroidered cloth, and showed us the form of the body, which was richly dressed in white satin. As we returned, we observed the shops were shut, and the people all dressed out;-endless were the bright robes, of scarlet, green, yellow, blue, and every shade of colour, and brighter still were the toques and flowers upon their heads; the older and uglier the woman, the brighter were the colours, and the more abundant the flowers. This day is lovely again—the snow is quite melted, and the streets in seas of mud-but the air is mild and delightful."

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Monday, December 12. "We have just returned from witnessing the marriage of a little girl of thirteen, the daughter of a rich Armenian merchant here. The church was brilliantly lighted up, and spread with carpets, for the reception of the guests. Several priests, in their flowing embroidered

robes, were in attendance; the head of the Armenian church, who performed the ceremony, was an old man of striking appearance his robes were of pale pink satin, richly embroidered with gold; a scarf of embroidered white satin hung in front in graceful folds; his beard was white as snow, and on his head he wore a crown of crimson velvet, also embroidered with gold. On each side of him stood a young boy in a satin robe, holding a lighted torch of such gigantic size that it required both hands to grasp it; and the other priests in attendance ranged themselves on each side of the altar, which was beautifully lighted up and ornamented with a profusion of gold and silver ornaments.

"Doudouka Ghachimoglow arrived in an open carriage, the horses decked out with draperies of white embroidered muslin. She was accompanied by her mother, godmother, and sister; all were in the Armenian dress except the bride; the carriage came forward at a very slow pace, for the godmother who officiated as bridemaid, held in her hand a lighted torch, ornamented with wreaths of flowers. The little bride was rustling in the