I have not seen, before nor since, a landscape which united, in an equal degree, the grand, the beautiful, and fertile. It is not necessary, on seeing it, to be very young or very romantic, in order to have dreams steal over the mind, of spending an American life in these remote plains, which just begin to be vexed with the plough, far removed from the haunts of wealth and fashion, in the midst of rustic plenty, and of this beautiful nature.

I will only add, that it is intersected with two or three canals-apparently the former beds of the river; that the soil is mellow, friable, and of an inky blackness; that it immediately absorbs the rain, and affords a road always dry, and beautiful to Portage des Sioux. It yields generally forty bushels of wheat, and seventy of corn, to the acre. The vegetable soil has a depth of forty feet, and earth thrown from the bottom of the wells is as fertile as that on the surface. At a depth of forty feet are found logs, leaves, pieces of pit-coal, and a stratum of sand and pebbles, bearing evident marks of the former attrition of running waters. Here are 100,000 acres of land of this description fit for the plough.

At the lower and northern edge of this prairie is the French village of Portage des Sioux; and on the opposite side of the river the beautiful bluffs of which I have spoken. While I stood on the Mamelles, and was looking in that direction, slight clouds and banks of mist obscured them from view. In a few moments the wind arose and dispersed the mists, and they burst upon me in all the splendour of their height and hoary

whiteness. My companion, accustomed as he was to the view, and not at all addicted to raptures, exclaimed that he had never seen them look so beautiful. For myself, although I had seen on passing them, that they were on the skirt of an unpeopled solitude, I could hardly persuade myself, so complete was the illusion, that I did not behold a noble and ancient town, built of stone, whose immense buildings were surmounted with towers and spires.

On the following day, the 28th April, Mr Lebarge conducted me to the United States barracks, upon the Mississippi, about ten miles to the southward of St Louis. The barracks consist of a plain and handsome oblong building, in which, at present, there are about 500 troops; but there is sufficient accommodation for double that number. There is an eminently beautiful terrace on the east side of the building overhanging the river, -indeed the finest terrace, so far as I have observed, upon the Mississippi. The ground in the neighbourhood is sprinkled with large and spreading single oak trees, so that the place altogether has very much the appearance of a heavily wooded English park. The ground is beautifully undulated. We passed through the village of Carondelet in going to the barracks, and in returning we crossed a small river, more swollen than we had expected, which took Mr Lebarge's horses off their feet for a moment; but I found that trifling difficulties did not startle Mr Lebarge, and I was encouraged by what I saw on our expedition on these two days, to engage him to take me through Illinois.

CHAPTER XII.

Journey in Illinois-Cross the Ferry at St Louis-Road through the Prairie to Edwardsville, and from thence to Lower Alton-Mr Miller's Hotel-Ride on horseback to the Confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi-Charlevoix's description of the Confluence-The River Illinois-Description-French Emigration to this Country— Boatable communication of this Country-Great Military Bounty Tract in Illinois-Description—Soil-Parts of it unhealthy-Sangamon district of Country the finest - General description of the StateExtent-Population-Description of Sangamon district-Stop at Mr Picket, the Priest's-Details of himself and his Family and FarmStriking resemblance to the Vicar of Wakefield—Absurdity of giving Females romantic names-Breakfast at Carrolton, the Capital of Green County in the Sangamon district-Appearance of the SoilDr Eaton's Account of its Healthiness-Great Extent of a beautiful and rich Prairie-Laid out by the Hand of Nature, as if it were an English Park-Arrival at Jacksonville, the Capital of Morgan County in the Sangamon District-Tom Bentley's Hotel-Laughable Conduct of the Inmates--Situation of Jacksonville-Its Rapid progress-Handsome Academy-Church-Distance from the River Illinois-Population of Green, Morgan, and Sangamon Counties, of which the Sangamon District is Composed-Mr Wilson's Plantation— Details-Two Crops of Wheat without sowing Seed for the second— Mr Wilson's Character of Tom Bentley-Rate of Boarding in the Academy, and in the Town of Jacksonville—Mr Hayne's Plantation— Only difficulty in the first breaking up of the Prairie - Sermon by Mr Sturtevant in the School-House-Expence of Education in the Academy-English Settlements on the West side of JacksonvilleMr Killam's Plantation-Full Details-Messrs Alisons of Yorkshire Plantations-Their Success after a Seven Years' Residence-Advantages of their Situation-Mr Brick, a Presbyterian Clergyman from

Cheshire, settled near Jacksonville-His interesting Account of this Country-Absurdities of the Hotel People continued-Visit to Mr James Kerr-Satisfactory Details received from Him-His Voyage from Leith, success at New York, and acquisition of 500 Acres of beautiful land here-Markets-Run for Cattle in the PrairieGreat emigration to Illinois-Difficulty of having Servants in this Country-View from Mr Kerr's House-Mr Kerr wishes, after a ten years' residence here, that some of his Friends from Scotland should join him-Emigrants should have Credentials-Continuation of the Prairie Ground to Springfield, the Capital of Sangamon County, in Sangamon District-Fine Country-Particulars to be attended to by Emigrants to this District of Country-Situation of Springfield-Bad Hotel-Saucy People-Meet Mr Strawbridge from Donegal in Ireland, who was ten years in Ohio, and has possessed 640 Acres for ten years in this District-Ample Details from him -Newspapers at Jacksonville and Springfield-Details from Mr Wallace, a Nova Scotia Man, and Mr Lucas a Kentuckian, who have plantations here—Meet Emigrants on the Road, coming here with their Property for Settlements-Pass through the Grand Prairie of Illinois A small Prairie to be preferred to a large one-Mr Henderson's Hotel and Plantation-Civility in the Manners of the People-Stop at Colonel Soard's Plantation-Meet Mr Maclintoc-His Account of Mr Birkbeck-His Account of the fertility of the land Near Vincennes-Arrive at Vandalia, the Seat of Legislature of Illi,nois-Mr Duncan's Hotel-Politeness of Mrs Hall-Attention of Mr Blackwell, the Publisher of the Illinois Intelligencer-Fertility of Soil-Rate of Interest-Antiquarian and Historical Society of Vandalia-Their Proceedings published-Extract from Judge Hall's Address to the Society-Canal from Lake Michigan to Illinois River-Proposals for Publications in Illinois Newspapers-Publication of Illinois Monthly Magazine—Description of Mississippi Valley extracted from it, as well as of the Prairie Land of Illinois-Mr Durham's Plantation twenty-five Miles from Vandalia Road through the Occa Flats very bad-Quantity of Honey at Mr Durham's—— Plantation for the New Orleans Market-Mr Durham's activity and desire for Information respecting Farming-Proceed to Elliot's Hotel, and, from want of Bread there, to Cycle's Hotel-His Statement of General Jackson's attention to him-Ramsay's Hotel-Proceed to

a neighbouring Plantation for the night-Miserable place and People-Details-Wanborough, and the Settlement of Messrs Birkbeck and Flower The English Prairie-The Town of Albion-Mr Birkbeck's Property not in good order-Mr Pritchard's Plantation and Cottage quite a Bijou-Plenty of Work here for the suffering Population of England-All have prospered here who came with small Funds Mr Birkbeck's labourers now all Landed Proprietors-Details as to Albion-Substantial Improvements-Mrs Oveat's Hotel Meet Mr Stephens, an old Acquaintance-Visit to Mr FlowerPolite attentions of him and Mrs Flower-Beauty of his situation on the Prairie-His and Mrs Flower Senior's House-Ride through the Prairie with Mr Flower-Wolf-trap-Rate of Interest-Important Details communicated by Mr Flower respecting the ad. vantages of the Situation-Good sweet Wine made here-Improved Land may be had here-Dr Spring, an English Physician's neat Cottage-Other Cottages Dr Spring and Mr Stephens show me the rest of the English Prairie-General correctness of Mr Birkbeck's Statements-Soil here not equal to the Sangamon District-Great Advantage of the State of Illinois for Emigrants-Hints to them Ride to Bompas-Mr Coles' Farm-Beautiful Plantation belonging to Mr Thomson from East Lothian-Information received from him -Mr Lebarge's Observation on Mr Thomson's Farm-Letter from Mr Duncan, with important Information as to Settlements in Illinois-Road to the Ferry over the Fox River, where Mr Birkbeck was drowned-Mr Birkbeck's Name always mentioned with respect here -Ferry across the Wabash, and arrival at Harmony, in the State of Indiana.

April and May 1830.

On the 29th April, we left St Louis, and after crossing in the ferry-boat to the opposite side of the Mississippi, we proceeded to the northward. My first object being to have a view from the heights on the east side of the Mississippi of the confluence of the Mississippi and the Missouri.

A considerable part of our drive was through the