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the whole, as any that I have passed in a stage in the United States. On the first part of it near Vincennes we saw some nice villas, and a good deal of old cleared land; but, from the time it became dark, the road was bad, and the drivers proceeded not without fear. I do not know how we could have got on, but from the light afforded by the fire-flies, which was peculiarly brilliant. We e were frequently obliged to stop and walk some miles, especially in the woods. We had two forks of the White River to cross in boats. The night being so gloomy, two drivers were required for the four horses, the passengers carrying lights within the carriage. The drivers, whose names were Lynch and Macneille, were very civil, and asked us to carry lights, saying to us," in such a case as this, gentlemen, we must be friendly." The stopping-places were but indifferent. We supped at Mount Pleasant, breakfasted at Paoli, and dined at Grenville, twelve miles from Albany in Indiana, three miles below Louisville, on the opposite side of the Ohio. After dinner we got a skiff to Louisville. The view from the top of the hills above Albany, of the finely wooded and precipitous fore-ground of the river, the towns on both sides, and the State of Kentucky beyond it, is one of the most splendid and extensive I have seen in America, and compensated in a great degree for the fatigue of the journey from Vin

cennes.

CHAPTER XIV.

Second Visit to Louisville-Journey from thence through Kentucky to Frankfort, Lexington, Paris, and Georgetown; and from thence to Cincinnati in the state of Ohio-Beauty of Cincinnati and of its Vicinity-Visit to Mr Bullock, formerly of the Egyptian Hall, London-His delightful Villa and Grounds-Meeting with Mr Timothy Flint His Politeness-Miss Flint-Mrs Trollope's Information respecting the Religious Meetings in the United States-Her gross exaggerations as to the Social Prayer-Meetings which she describes -Captain Hall's advice to Travellers not to look out exclusively for the remarkable features of a scene-Bishop Hobart-His excellent Letter to the Mayor of New York-Episcopalian Churches in NewYork-Methodist Meetings at New York-Other evidence in opposition to Mrs Trollope's Statements.-Extracts from Mr Flint's Work decisive against Mrs Trollope's Statements, which are founded apparently on the intensity of her prejudices in favour of the Forms` and Doctrines of the Church of England-Her Colloquies on this and other subjects with her Servants and other Persons-The Animus with which she writes on this subject-Captain Hall's Statements of what he observed at Religious Meetings in America-Mr Ferrall's Views on this subject-Religious Meetings in New England-Boston, the Chief Seat of Unitarianism-Details-Mr Cooke's Sermon-Captain Hall's Observation, that Unitarianism is the Democracy of Religion— Religious Sects in Pennsylvania-Roman Catholics in Maryland and Louisiana-Mr Cooper's opinion on the subject of Religious Meetings in America—Mrs Trollope's Disappointments at Cincinnati—Examination of her own evidence on the subject of Religious Meetings;

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First, what she saw and heard; Secondly, the gossip she heard from her Maid-Servant and Mantua-Maker-Real state of the Case.

May 1830.

I SOON got to Mr Allen's hotel in a hack, and was welcomed back again by Mr Allen and his bar-keeper. Next day I saw my acquaintances, Mr Ainslie and Mr Bamborough, and passed the evening at Mr Cosbie's with Mr Palmer. Mr Cosbie was, I found, aware of the striking view above Albany, but he had only for the first time seen it since I had gone to St Louis. He recommended to me so strongly to see a part of Kentucky, especially Lexington and Paris, that I determined on spending two or three days in that state before going to Cincinnati. Accordingly, next morning, the 15th May, I took my place in the stage at an early hour for Lexington. We breakfasted at Middleton, twelve miles, dined at Shelbyville, and reached Frankfort in the evening.

Frankfort is the seat of legislation for Kentucky. The town is handsome, chiefly built of stone,-and the situation on the Kentucky river, the banks of which are deep and precipitous, and covered with wood, is very romantic. The State-house is a fine building of marble. The circuit court of the supreme court of the United States was in session. I heard a lawyer of the name of Munroe speaking before Judge Maclean. The alluvial plain about Frankfort is extensive, and of rich soil. There is steam navigation in the river Kentucky 'as high up as Frankfort, which is about sixty-two miles from Louisville. In the stage, we had various passen

gers during the day, and for some part of the way, Mrs Kinloch and Miss Stannart, two English actresses, very agreeable women. I have again got into the region of green peas and strawberries.

The drivers both breakfasted and dined with us. Next morning the stage started early, conveying us to Rice's hotel, about half way to Lexington, twenty-five miles, to breakfast.

A merchant from Philadelphia, a very agreeable person, was in the stage with me,-he had travelled extensively in Europe, and was now on his way to Tennessee. The country through which the stage passed was well cultivated, and of good soil,-and the hotel where we stopped, at the confluence of two great roads, more English-looking than any house I have seen in this country. The breakfast was in every respect equal to what the appearance of the house led us to expect. There were large fields of beautiful clover in the neighbourhood, and the country undulating, well cultivated all the way to Lexington, which is a very gay-looking town. Its situation is in the heart of a fine district, with a great many comfortable-looking villas and farmhouses in the neighbourhood. The crops of clover are the most beautiful that I have ever seen. The town itself consists of handsome and substantial buildings, and is not unlike Doncaster. The chief street is a mile and a quarter in length, and eighty feet wide. I went to the Episcopalian church in the forenoon, and to the Presbyterian church, where Mr Young preached, in the afternoon. Neither of the churches was particu

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larly well filled, but there was a greater number of handsome coaches, some of them with servants in livery, than I have met with, excepting at Charleston. There is a great air of wealth about the place. The hotel, kept by Mr Postlethwaite, is as good as possible. Mr Clay's house and property are in the neighbourhood. There is nothing remarkable about his house, which is of brick, situated upon flat ground near the road, nowise better in appearance than a very ordinary English parsonage. The land about it is, however, excellent. I have nowhere seen larger nor finer fields of clover. There is a beautiful property on the side of the road opposite to Mr Clay's, belonging to Mr Wickliffe.

There being at present no stage from Lexington to Paris, though it is the richest district in the state, I hired an open carriage, and was gratified by seeing a wellpeopled and well-cultivated district of considerable extent. The road, however, is bad, and almost every person we saw was riding on horseback. We met whole families travelling in this way; the children sitting before the female servants, all slaves. Paris is a considerable manufacturing town. From thence I proceeded to Mr Ferguson's plantation and hotel at Johnson's Stand, about five miles from Paris. The landlord here is very wealthy, and has a large improved farm, and good cattle and horses. He was anxious to get information from me respecting some of the English stud horses (for this, he says, is a great breeding country,) which had been lately sent from England to Kentucky. I was unluckily unable to give him an an

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