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BURNING CHASM OF PONAHOHOA.

returned to our guide, whom we found waiting at the spot where we first entered the hollow.

As he was a resident in Kapapala, and owned a small garden near, we endeavoured to learn from him something of the history of the phenomenon before us. He told us, that the two large chasms were formed about eleven moons ago, that nothing else had been visible, till nearly two moons back, when a slight earthquake was experienced at Kapapala, and the next time he came by, the ground had fallen in, forming the hollow that we saw, which also appeared full of fissures. About three weeks ago, as he was going to his plantations, he saw a small flame issuing from the apertures, and a quantity of smoking lava all round; the branches of the trees that stood near were also broken and burnt, and several of them still smoking.

Having gratified our curiosity, we prepared to leave this infant volcano; for such to us it appeared. Although the surface, at least, of the whole country around, had a volcanic origin, it seems to have remained undisturbed a number of years, perhaps ages. The lava is decomposed to a considerable depth, and is mingled with prolific soil, fertile in vegetation, and profitable to its proprietors; and we felt a sort of melancholy interest in witnessing the first exhibitions of returning action, after so long a repose in this mighty agent, whose irresistible energies will probably, at no very remote period, spread desolation over a district now smiling in verdure, repaying the toils, and gladdening the heart of the industrious cultivator.

Ponahohoa, the place we had visited, is situated in the district of Kapapala, in the north-east part of the division of Kau, and is, as near as we could judge, from ten to twelve miles from the sea-shore, and about twenty miles from the great volcano at the foot of Mouna Roa.

The road, by which we returned, lay through a number of fields of mountain taro, which appears to

LEAVE KAPAPALA FOR THE VOLCANO. 121

be cultivated here more extensively than the sweetpotatoe. We also passed several hills, whose broad base and irregular tops showed them originally to have been craters. They must be very ancient, as they were covered with shrubs and trees. From them must have come the then molten, but now indurated flood, over which we were travelling. Several small columns of smoke were seen rising near them, from recently made fissures. About 2 P. M. we

reached our lodgings, and dismissed the man, who had showed us the way, with a remuneration for his trouble.

Mr. Harwood, who had arrived during our absence, informed us, that on reaching Kaaraara, last night, he took up his lodgings with Maruae, the chief of the place, by whom he had been hospitably entertained. Mauae, and his two companions, who had also slept at Kaaraara, arrived with him; but nothing had been heard of Makoa, or our baggage, and we began to suspect he would not follow us, even so far as he had promised.

CHAPTER VI.

Leave Kapapala for the volcano-Lodge in a cavern.-Reflection from the volcano by night.— Volcanic sand.-Superstition of the natives with respect to the ohelo.-Description of the great crater of Kirauea, and traditions and superstitions connected with it.-The "little Kirauea."-Ancient heiau on the summit of a precipice.-Mouna Roa.-Probable structure of the island.

BETWEEN three and four o'clock in the afternoon, a party of travellers, consisting of four men and one woman, entered the house where we were, and sat down to rest. We soon learned, that they belong

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LEAVE KAPAPALA FOR THE VOACANO.

ed to Kearakomo, in Puna, whither they were going by a road, that also led to the great volcano; and having before experienced the inconvenience of travelling without a guide over a country, of which we were entirely ignorant, it appeared desirable, that some of us, at least, should go with them. We expressed our intention to accompany them. They were pleased, and told us they would wait till we were ready. No tidings had yet been received of Makoa, or our baggage; and our biscuit being nearly expended, and we being without even a change of linen, we did not think it expedient, that all of us should leave this place before our baggage arrived; especially as we knew it would be some days, before we should reach any of the villages on the shores of Puna. Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich, therefore, thought it best to wait at least another day, while the rest of us should proceed with the travellers.

Having made this arrangement, those, who were to proceed, immediately packed up their provisions, which were but a scanty supply, and filled their canteens with water. The natives, also, filled their calabashes; and about 5 P. M. the rest of the company left Kapapala. They proceeded to a place, at a little distance, called Kapuahi, where they stopped at the entrance of a large cave, arched over by a thick crust of ancient lava. Here two or three families, consisting of men, women and children, were residing. Its interiour was rather dark, as the entrance was the only aperture that afforded any light; yet the inhabitants of this dreary abode seemed cheerful and contented, and perhaps felt themselves favoured by Pele, in having a permanent abode furnished free of labour or expense. The women were employed in making mats, and beating tapa; the children were playing among the fragments of lava on the outside; and the men were preparing an oven to bake some taro. We tried to purchase a few fowls of them, but they had none to dispose of. They gave us, however, two or three roots of taro,

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123

and a draught of excellent spring water. Bidding them farewell, we pursued our way over a country most beautiful, and gradually sloping towards the right, meeting the ocean at a distance of from ten to fifteen miles, and rising more abruptly on the left, where it was crowned with the woods, which extend, like a vast belt, round the base of the greater part of Mouna Roa. After travelling between three and four miles, we reached Keapuana, a large cave frequently used as a lodging place by weary or benighted travellers. The sun was nearly down, and the guides proposed to halt for the night in the cavern, rather than proceed any farther, and sleep in the open air. The proposal was agreed to, and when we had gathered a quantity of fern leaves and grass for our bed, and collected some fuel for the evening fire, we descended about fourteen feet to the mouth of the cavern, which was probably formed in the same manner, as those we formerly visited in the vicinity of Kairua. The entrance, which was eight feet wide and five high, was formerly an arch of ancient lava. The interior of the cavern was about fifty feet square, and the arch, that covered it, was ten feet high. There was an aperture at the northern end, about three feet in diameter, occasioned by the falling in of the lava, which admitted a current of keen mountain air, through the whole of the night. While they were cleaning out the small stones between some of the blocks of lava, that lay scattered around, a large fire was kindled near the entrance, which, throwing its glimmering light on the dark volcanic sides of the cavern, and illumin ating one side of the huge masses of lava, exhibited to our view the strange features of our apartment, which resembled, in no small degree, scenes described in tales of romance. While the natives were sitting round the fire, Messrs. Thurston and Ellis ascended to the upper region, and walked to a rising ground, at a small distance from the mouth of the cavern, to see if they could discern the light of the

124 REFLECTED LIGHT FROM THE VOLCANO.

volcano. The wind blew fresh from the mountains, the noise of the rolling surf, to which they had been accustomed on the shore, was not heard, and the stillness of the night was only disturbed by the chirping of the insects in the grass. The sky was clear, and though the stars were not more numerous than ordinary, those which spangled the heavens were exceedingly bright. The galaxy, in particular, appeared unusually luminous. On looking towards the north-east, they saw a broad column of light rising to a considerable distance. Immediately above it were some bright clouds, or thin vapours, beautifully tinged with red on the underside. They had no doubt that the column of light arose from the large crater, and that its fires illuminated the surrounding atmosphere. The fleecy clouds generally passed over it in a south-east direction. As they approached the column of light, the side towards the place where the observers stood became generally bright, afterwards the under edge only reflected the volcanic fire, and in a little time each cloud passed entirely away, and was succeeded by another. After viewing with admiration the beautiful sight, for about half an hour, they joined their companions below; and, having spread their bed of fern and grass on the rough floor of the cavern, mingled with the cheerful circle sitting round the fire. They then sung a hymn in the native language, and laid down to rest, having committed themselves and their fellow travellers to the kind keeping of Him, from whose wakeful eyes and watchful care, no dark cavern can exclude.

August 1. Refreshed by a comfortable night's sleep, we arose before daylight, and, after stirring up the embers of our fire, rendered our morning tribute of praise to our Almighty Preserver. As the day began to dawn, the whole company tied on their sandals, ascended from their subterraneous dormitory, and pursued their journey, directing their course