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He had before given instructions to our guide. He now directed the man who was going in the canoe to take care of our things, and told us he would send some men to carry our baggage by land as far as Kearake'kua. We then took leave of him, and proceeded on our journey. Messrs. Bishop and Harwood went in the canoe; the rest of our number travelled on foot.

Our guide Makoa, who had been the king's messenger many years, and was well acquainted with the island, led the way. He was rather a singular looking little man, between forty and fifty years of age. A thick bunch of long, black, curling hair shaded his wrinkled forehead, and another bunch of the same kind hung down behind each of his ears. The rest of his head was cropped as short as shears could make it. His small black eyes were ornamented with tatou'd vandyke semi-circles.

Two

goats, impressed in the same indelible manner, stood rampant over each brow; one, like the supporter of a coat of arms, stood on each side of his nose; and two more guarded the corners of his mouth. The upper part of his beard was shaven close; but that which grew under his chin was drawn together, braided for an inch or two, and then tied in a knot, while the extremities below the knot spread out in curls like a tassel. A light kihei* was carelessly thrown over one shoulder, and tied in a knot on the other, and a large fan, made of cocoa nut leaves, in his hand, served to beat away the flies, or the boys, when either became too numerous, or troublesome.

Leaving Kairua, we passed on through the villages thickly scattered along the shore to the southward. The country around looked unusually green and cheerful, owing to the frequent rains, which, for some months past, have fallen on this side of the island. Even the barren lava, over which we travelled, seemed to veil its sterility beneath frequent

* Cloth worn like a shawl.

tufts of tall waving grass, or spreading shrubs and flowers. The sides of the hills, laid out for a considerable extent in gardens and fields, and generally cultivated with potatoes, &c. looked very beautiful. The number of heiaus and depositories of the dead, which we passed, convinced us that this part of the island must once have been exceedingly populous. The former were built with fragments of lava laid up evenly on the outside, generally about eight feet long, from four to six broad, and about four high. Some appeared very ancient; others had evidently been standing but a few years.

At Ruapua, we examined an interesting heiau, called Kauaikahaora, built of immense blocks of lava, and found its dimensions to be 150 feet by 70. At the north end was a smaller enclosure 60 feet long, and 10 wide, partitioned off by a high wall, with but one narrow entrance. The places where the idols formerly stood, were apparent, though the idols have been removed. The spot where the altar formerly stood, could be distinctly traced. It was a mound of earth paved with smooth stones, and surrounded by a firm curb of lava. The adjacent ground was strewed with the bones of ancient offerings. The natives informed us, that four principal idols were supposed to preside there; one of stone, two of wood, and one of red feathers. One of these idols, they said, was brought from a foreign country. Their names were Kanenuiakea, (great and wide-spreading Kane,) who was brought from Tauai; Kaneruruhonua, (earth-shaking Kane;) Roramakaeha, and Kekuaai

manu.

Leaving the heiau we had been examining, we passed by a number of smaller temples, principally on the same shore, dedicated to Kuura, a male, and Hina, a female idol, worshipped by fishermen; as they were supposed to preside over the sea, and to conduct or impel to the shores of Hawaii, the various shoals of fish, that visited them at different seasons of the year. The first of any kind of fish taken in

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the season, was always presented to them, especially the operu, a kind of herring. This custom exactly accords with the former practice of the Society Islanders.

At 2, P. M. we reached Horuaroa, a large and populous district. Here we found Keoua, the Governor's wife, and her attendants, who had come from Kairua for wauti, with which to make cloth. Shortly after we reached Karuaokalani, (the second heaven,) where was a fine heiau in good preservation. It is called Pakiha; its dimensions were 270 feet by 210.1 We could not learn to what idol it was dedicated,' but were informed that it was built in the time of Keakealani, who, according to tradition, was Queenof Hawaii about eleven generations back. The walls were very solid, thick, and nearly entire; and the singular manner in which the stones were piled upon the top, like so many small spires, gave it an unusually interesting appearance. Before we left Karuaokalani, the inhabitants pointed out to us a spot called Maukareoreo, the place of a celebrated giant of that name, who was one of the attendants of Umi, king of Hawaii, about twelve generations back; and who, they told us, was so tall, that he could pluck the cocoa nuts from the trees as he walked along; and when the king was playing in the surf, where it was five or six fathoms deep, would walk out to him without being wet above his loins; and when he was in a canoe, if he saw any fish lying among the coral at the same depth, would just put his hand down and take them. They also told us he was a great warrior, and that to his prowess, principally, Umi was indebted for many of his victories. The Hawaiians are fond of the marvellous, as well as many people, who are better informed; and probably this passion, together with the distance of time since Maukareoreo existed, has led them to magnify one of Umi's followers, of perhaps a little larger stature than his fellows, into a giant sixty feet high.

pied yesterday by those from Kau. The musicians, seven in number, seated themselves on the sand; and a curiously carved drum, made by hollowing out a solid piece of wood, and covering the top with shark's skin, was placed before each, which was beaten with the palm or fingers of the right hand.— At the same time, with a small stick in the left, each beat a neat little drum, made of the shell of a large cocoa-nut. When the musicians had arranged themselves in a line across the beach, and a bustling man, who appeared to be master of ceremonies, had, with a large branch of a cocoa-nut tree, cleared a circle of considerable extent, two interesting little children, (a boy and a girl,) apparently about nine years of age, came forward, habited in the dancing costume of the country, with garlands of flowers on their heads, wreaths around their necks, bracelets on their wrists, and buskins on their ancles. When they had reached the centre of the ring, they commenced their dance to the music of the drums, cantilating all the while, alternately with the musicians, a song in honour of some ancient chief of Hawaii.

The beach was crowded with spectators, and the exhibition was kept up with great spirit till the overspreading shades of evening put an end to their mirth, and afforded a respite to the poor children, whose little limbs must have been very much fatigued by two hours of constant exercise. We were anxious to address the multitude on the subject of religion before they should disperse; but so intent were they on their amusement, that they could not have been diverted from it. Mr. Ellis made a drawing of this scene.

A messenger now invited us to sup with the Governor, and we soon after joined him and his friends around his hospitable board. Their repast was not accompanied by the gladsome sound of "harp in hall," or "aged minstrel's flowing lay;" yet it was enlivened by an interesting youthful bard, twelve or fourteen years of age, who was seated on the ground,

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in the large room where we were assembled, and sung in a monotonous, but pleasing strain, the deeds of former chiefs, the ancestors of his host. His fingers beat, in a manner responsive to his song, upon a rustic little drum, formed of a calabash, beautifully stained, and covered, at the head, with a piece of shark's skin. The Governor and his friends were evidently pleased with his lay, and the youth seemed repaid by their approbation.

16th. In the morning Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood endeavoured to ascertain the height of Mouna Huararai, by means of two observations, at the extremity of a base line of 2,230 feet. They made the height of the mountain to be 7,822 feet; but their quadrant being an inferior one, we think the height of the mountain greater than that given above, though it is never covered with snow.-The accounts the natives gave us of the roads we were to travel, and the effects the short journeys already made had produced on our shoes, convinced us, that those we had brought with us would be worn out before we had proceeded half way round the island. We therefore provided a substitute, by procuring a tough bull's hide from the Governor's store-house, and making ourselves rude sandals; which we afterwards found very serviceable, as they enabled us to travel over large tracts of lava, with much more expedition and comfort, than we could possibly have done without them.

At 4 P. M. the musicians from Kau again collected on the beach, and the dancers commenced a hura similar to that exhibited on Monday evening. We had previously appointed a religious meeting for this evening, and about an hour before sun-set proposed to the Governor to hold it on the beach where the people were already assembled. He approved, and followed us to the edge of the circle, where we took our station just opposite the musicians. At the Governor's request the music ceased, and the dancers came and sat down just in front of us. We sang an