was soon cut through by our Indian scouts, and we managed to squeeze through at the expense of some of our outer garments, and an occasional refusal to proceed on the part of our mules. In this basin lies the bed of a creek, through which, in ordinary seasons, a lively stream must undoubtedly flow; but owing to the extraordinary drought which has visited the Pacific Coast during the past year, the creek was as dry as the travelers, and with a 66 same old story "muttered around, we gave our mules a spurring invitation to climb the mountain in front of us. Halting on the other side, we stopped in an immense rocky cavity, from which a beautiful view of the Sulphur Springs valley below us could be had through a sort of lunette about twenty feet wide. The rocks seemed to have been placed by a natural convulsion into an oval frame of the dimensions above given, through which the eye could gaze miles around into the valleys, and from which, undoubtedly, the Apache videttes watched the approach of the Mexican trains on their way to the more northern portion of the Territory. Our command tarried here quite a while, so enchanting was the contrast between the cragginess around us and the smooth undulation of the valley beyond. For a mile or so further the scenery partakes of no peculiar feature until the painted rocks are reached at the southwestern mouth of the cañon, as it opens into the San Pedro valley. The few rays of the setting sun that can penetrate the cañon were just tinging the tops of this peculiar formation, and brought out conspicuously the metallic colors which permeate these rocks in a multitude of crossing and recrossing filons, the whole presenting a picturesqueness seldom to be found among the freaks of nature. At the base of these painted rocks we found water in sufficient quantity to supply the wants of men and beasts, and immediately made the necessary preparations to camp there that night.

"The most interesting feature of our trip is now to be told. Indian nature, from time immemorial, has always been noted for the superstitious element which pervades its character. They are perfect children in that respect. They have their bug-a-boos, their good and evil spirits, their perennial appearances of ghosts, and their medicine man, who seems to exercise a general superintendency over the supernatural. One of their beliefs concerning the translation of the spirit into another world is, that the soul ascends with the smoke of the funeral pyre, and is wafted to a cave. Sometimes the spirit of the deceased enters the body of a coyote, or a nobler animal, according to his rank; but judging from the number of coyotes in

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Arizona, we are led to believe that the plebeian element preponderates largely among the Apache tribes, and that the "big chiefs " are few in number. Sometimes it so far materializes itself as to be seen by the medicine man. This is looked upon

as a good omen, and portends a successful hunt or a bountiful crop of Mexican ponies to be hereafter stolen from the valleys of Sonora. The entrance to the cave is generally supposed to be guarded by an immense toad or a serpent.

"During the course of the evening, and while seated around our fires, pell-mell with the red-skins, our conversation turned upon Cochise and his probable place of burial, which is supposed to be in this cañon. We naturally sought the information from one of our Indians, who spoke English passably, and who insinuated that, although he did not know where the great chief was inhumed, the medicine man could, nevertheless, show us a cave, not far distant, which Cochise's spirit had selected for its abiding-place, and where at times he appeared to his countrymen, and advised them regarding their intended actions and movements. One of the brave men of the party immediately contracted with the medicine man to show us to the grave for half a plug of tobacco, and slinging our Spencer carbines over our shoulders, five told him to proceed, and we would follow. Taking a torch in his hand, he led us back into the gulch, three or four Indians following us. After traveling a few hundred yards, we suddenly came to a fissure on the right hand side of the mountain large enough to allow the passage of a human being, and into it he directed his steps, the flickering light emitted from his mesquite torch throwing a lurid glimmer upon the rocks around. This fissure opened gradually into a cave about fifty feet in circumference, and barely of sufficient height to allow us to stand without slightly stooping. Planting his torch in the middle of the cave, he motioned us to stand back against the wall, and forming with his compan. ions a circle around the torch, commenced a mournful incantation, the principal words of which seemed to be "Hum hoo yay!" whatever that may have meant in the Apache dialect. After singing a few verses they began walking around the torch, and finally started into a little dog-trot, their utterances increasing in rapidity with their perambulation around the fire. A sudden "Hugh!" from the medicine man caused us to start, and direct our attention toward the side of the cave, to which he kept pointing, and uttering uncouth sounds, with a volubility and sharpness that was deafening, while the remainder of the Indians kept their heads bowed down, as it were, in a timid

and respectful attitude. We immediately understood that the spirit of the great Apache warrior was in our midst, and with a bold attempt at averting a slight shudder, strained our eyes into the darkness beyond, to catch a glimpse of the apparition, which seemed to have thrown our medicine man into a frenzied state, which could barely be termed human. But in vain did we gaze. To the unbelieving Californian, Cochise showeth himself not. It is only to his faithful descendants that he deigns to appear in this semi-ethereal form, to depart again and "revisit the glimpses of the moon." Suddenly our medicine man uttered a piercing cry and fell to the ground in a sort of convulsive stupor. The incantation was over, the spirit had vanished, but the terrible strain had had its effect, and the conjurer lay prostrate on the floor. A few minutes sufficed for him to recuperate; and taking up his torch, he led us back to the open air without uttering a word, a cold perspiration moistening our brows. The cool air of the night was a pleasant substitute for the smoky atmosphere of the cave, and having supped full of horrors we returned to camp, and rolled ourselves up in our blankets to dream of Cochise.

"The next day, on the way from the cañon to old Santa Cruz, our Indians killed twelve deer, and showed them to us with a triumphant smile at our skepticism in disbelieving the power of their regretted chief."

One of the peculiar features of the extreme eastern part of the region under consideration is an extensive deposit known as the Soda Lake, which is reported as 150 miles in circumference. It is certain at no distant day to become of commercial value, and will not then prove as now, a mere illusion to betray by the mirage that constantly arises in the morning, the inexperienced traveler. It has been described thus:

"There it was, sparkling and beautiful in the bright sunshine, with its white-capped waves lapping the shores, skirted by a light growth of forest trees, its deep blue waters affording a refreshing relief from the dusty plain and glaring sunlight— a very Will-o'-the-Wisp to the weary, thirsty traveler."

The north-eastern portion of Pima County is of an interesting character. Descriptions of Camps Bowie and Grant will be found elsewhere. The Arivaipa valley and cañon are likely to be the center of a considerable mining industry.

The town of Safford, a small but growing place, is to be found here, and Camp Thomas is situated on the Gila river, at a point about thirty-five miles from Camp Grant, A. T., by the nearest of several roads. The climate there (except in midsum

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mer) is delightful; water abundant and good, both in river and many springs; wood plenty in large cottonwood groves along the valleys; location very healthy; instances of sickness exceptional, and not severe; population, in the immediate vicinity, about 365. Land is fertile and rich, and being settled by an intelligent and industrious population; rich mines being constantly discovered, and many in course of development; scenery beautiful; the town is laid out with the customary plaza; business houses on the east and west sides, and dwellings on the north and south sides; the streets are wide, nicely graded, and shaded on either side with double rows of tall cottonwoods. There are valuable hot springs in the vicinity, within six miles, which possess medicinal qualities. The elevation is about 3,000 feet above sea level.

The Arivaipa cañon has its head about thirty miles northwest of Camp Grant, and twenty-five miles south of San Carlos, and is about thirty miles in length to its junction with the San Pedro river and valley. The upper twenty miles is a deep, wild gorge, with steep and abrupt cliffs on both sides of from 400 to 1,000 feet in height, reaching back to a height of 2,000 feet. The cañon has been cut out by running water in the long ages which have passed away, since the deposition of a drift that is plainly to be seen is mostly a conglomerate. The whole upper part of the cañon is a cemented conglomerate, and the lower part a sandstone conglomerate. The face of the cliffs, the angles, the side-cañons, the jutting and overhanging cliffs, are worn into all sorts of fantastic forms, such as forts, towers, churches, houses, thrones, pulpits, etc., which meet the eye at every turn for miles. At many points in this valley are the stone foundation walls of old ruins, surrounded by the same mystery attending similar remains so freely scattered throughout the territory. The future of this region seems to be now assured.

CHAPTER X.

THE TOWNS OF ARIZONA.

HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF YUMA, EHRENBERG, PRESCOTT, FLORENCE, TUCSON, WICKENBURG, PHOENIX. THEIR POPULATION, TRADE, AND SURROUNDINGS. THE TOWNS OF MOJAVE COUNTY. MINING CAMPS. MINERAL PARK. CERBAT. NEW VIRGINIA CITY. SIGNAL, ETC. A GENERAL REVIEW. WAGES. COST OF LIVING. MERCHANTS. IMPORTANCE, ETC.

In the year 1700 Father Kino established a mission on the spot now occupied by the post of Fort Yuma, upon the California side of the Colorado river, but it was soon afterwards destroyed by the natives, who, however, seem to have been well let alone until 1771, when Father Garces visited the Colorado river, and subsequently, in 1778, with others, established two missions-one at the intersection of the Gila and Colorado, on the site of Fort Yuma, and another nine miles below, on the same bank. In 1781 the horses of a score of soldiers there stationed did some damage to the crops of the natives, who thought there was insufficient alertness in making good the damage; and on Sunday, July 17th, when the soldiers and 150 Spanish people were nearly all at mass, the Indians took advantage of their piety to send the men where they would have an opportunity to secure its reward, taking away the women and children as captives. It does not appear that any further efforts were made by the Spaniards to occupy this region; and although a Catholic missionary had explored and described it, and compiled vocabularies of the Yuma and Mojave languages, it was not until Gen. Phil. Kearney marched his command through the Gila valley in 1847, during the war with Mexico, that something of the country began to be known to Americans. The gold discoveries in California following closely on the American acquisition of territory, attracted immigrants to the Pacific coast. The thirty-second parallel route, never impeded by snow, was seen to have great advantages over the northern route. The difficulty of crossing the Colorado was obviated in 1849 by the establishment of a ferry by Dr. Lincoln and others, near the present site of Yuma, the