The number of his pupils is about 150; but they are all very young, and their education is little more than elementary. In addition to this esta blishment, the Greek Youths of Smyrna have no other means of acquiring knowledge, than what is furnished by very inferior Day Schools, and by private instruction.1 Smyrna will ever be to the Christian a most interesting spot. The conflict which was here maintained was one of no common description. It was not only Polycarp himself, who was the gainer by his sufferings on the firmness of the Christian Martyrs depended, under Divine Providence, the transmission of the truth to the latest generations. Had they yielded to the fury of their foes, and denied the Lord who bought them, we should have been still immersed in the ignorance of our forefathers, without God and without hope in the world. We do well, then, to cherish the memory of these faithful Servants of God. It is just for us to bless the Most High, for His grace bestowed upon them. I must confess that I tread the ground which has been signalized by the death of a Christian Martyr, with unspeakably more delight than I should visit the Plain of Marathon. Here was a conflict, not for the liberty which is merely coexistent with the span of human life, but for a 'The Schools of the Rev. Mr. Brewer have been established since the above was written, and have been remarkably successful. freedom which is eternal! Here-without arms, without allies-the world and its god were vanquished! Here was honour won-not that empty shadow which fallen man admires, but that exceeding and eternal weight of glory, which God has prepared for His faithful servants. FROM SMYRNA TO EPHESUS. March 28, 1826-We entered on our Journey this afternoon. I am favoured with a companion in the Rev. Mr. Arundell, British Chaplain at Smyrna, and Rector of Landolph in Cornwall. The rest of our party consists of Mehmet, a Janissary of the English Consulate; Milcon, an Armenian, the Surigee, or, in other words, the man who provides and takes charge of the horses; Mustapha, a Turk, who gives help to Milcon; and Nicolas, a native of Thessaly, my own servant. The immediate environs of Smyrna are interesting, from the thick groves of cypress which adorn, with pensive beauty, the Turkish Burial-grounds. Christians might learn an advantageous lesson from the attention of the Turks to their places of interment. I know of no churchyards, in England, which will bear a comparison with the cemeteries of Smyrna. Close to Smyrna, we were gratified with the improvements of Suleyman Aga; but, afterwards, observed nothing which merits attention. After a ride of little more than two hours, we arrived at Sebdikioi, and spent the night at the country-house of Mr. Arundell. In this village there are three summer retirements, possessed by opulent European Families resident in Smyrna. A Missionary would find it an excellent retreat during the heat of summer; and would here, not only be able to obtain that retirement for devotional exercises which is so important to a Christian, but would find abundant opportunity of usefulness by his intercourse with the Greeks of the village. The number of Greek houses is estimated at 300: the Turks have 40, with one Mosque. March 29, 1826-We have had a most perilous journey to-day. On leaving Sebdikioi, the clouds threatened rain; but transient gleams of sunshine emboldened us to proceed. We had not advanced far before the rain overtook us; nor could we for several hours find any other shelter except what was afforded amidst the ruins of Olanizzi. This was, a few years ago, a flourishing Greek Village; but, since the Revolution, a party of Turks passing that way utterly destroyed it; the very trees have not escaped the fire. After leaving it, the rain descended upon us with more fury than ever. we During the former part of the day we passed some moderate elevations; but afterwards entered on one of those immense plains, for which Asia Minor is celebrated. Our first essay on this extensive level was of an appalling description. For full a quarter of a mile, we had to contend with a terrible morass: perceiving, however, the Janissary pushing on manfully, I followed him; and, at length, after continual sinking and plunging, we emerged upon firmer ground. About two o'clock, we arrived at a miserable hovel, in which we were glad to obtain shelter and spend the remainder of the day and the whole of the night. The owner is a poor negro. He informs us that his hut is called "the Arab's Coffee-house." Here we are surrounded by smoking Turks; the rain penetrates through the roof, while we have to spread our mattresses on a dirty floor; and, what is most shocking to European delicacy, we are excessively annoyed by the vermin, always met with in such situations: yet we find cause of gratitude in the protection we enjoy. March 30, 1826-This morning, we had a ride over the plain, rendered more agreeable by the contrast of yesterday's difficulties. We left a small village to the left, which has received the name of Fregata, from some fancied resemblance which it bears to the hull of a frigate. On the right, we saw, shortly afterwards, the remains of the Ancient Metropolis: near them is the Village of Tourbali. The scenery here is exceedingly beautiful. On the right is Mount Gallesus, clothed in many parts with beautiful forests, and in some places exhibiting 66 stupendous precipices; and the plain through which you travel has been called, by Van Egmont, one of the most delicious in the world." On the other side is the Pagasean Lake of antiquity: even at this season, we saw a considerable sheet of water in that direction, and in winter the greater part of the plain is inundated. We passed through a beautiful defile, having lofty mountains on both sides, and the River Caïster flowing through the valley. The Caïster is of course highly calculated to gratify those who remember the simile of Homer.1 It added also to my pleasure, though I did not observe any of the swans he describes, to notice great numbers of storks, stalking about upon the banks, with that majestic gait which is natural to them. EPHESUS. We reached Aiasaluck about half-after one o'clock. It was with feelings of no common interest, that my eye caught, from a distance, the Aqueduct and the Castle; and, with still greater delight, that I afterward proceeded to examine the Ruins. Ephesus had, at one period, extended to Aiasaluck; but the principal ruins of that celebrated city are a mile 1 Τῶν δ ̓, ὥστ ̓ ὀρνίθων πετεηνῶν ἔθνεα πολλὰ, Iliad. B. 459. |