That nothing may be lost of any inscription belonging to this place, we shall add every trace of this kind that we found upon the spot; however unworthy of notice in any other point of view. Upon a small stone we observed the following letters:

CHAP.

III.

III.

CHAP. These imperfect legends, and the vestiges of antient architecture in the walls of the buildings, are sufficient to prove that the monastery and its church occupy the site of some more antient shrine: and the allusion to the Games here solemnized in honour of the Muses plainly indicate its real nature. With Pausanias in our hands, we began a further examination of the place; comparing the different objects with his description. The sacred Grove, according to him, was in Helicon (év 'Exıxwvi), at a distance from THESPIA, which was not in Helicon, but beneath, that is to say, at the foot of the mountain'. In the time of Pausanias, the Grove was surrounded by inhabitants; and thither the Thespians annually resorted', to celebrate Games in honour of the Muses, which were called ΜΟΥΣΕΙΑ. It is to these games that the inscription we found within the church evidently relates and as the pillar, upon which it is written, perhaps remains upon or near to the spot where this festival was commemorated, we may thence proceed towards the FOUNTAIN AGANIPPE and the RIVER PERMESSUS, being

(1) Ὑπὸ τὸ ὄρος τὸν Ἑλικῶνα, κ. τ. λ. Pausan. Baot. c. 26. p. 761. ed. Kuhnii.

(2) Περιοικοῦσι δὲ καὶ ἄνδρες τὸ ἄλσος, καὶ ἑορτήν τε ἐνταῦθα οἱ Θεσπιεῖς καὶ ἀγῶνα ἄγουσι ΜΟΥΣΕΙΑ. Ibid. c. 31. p. 771.

III.

guided by the words of Pausanias; for the foun- CHAP. tain then occurs upon the left hand, exactly as he has described it'. From the monastery, a path, winding through the Grove now covering this part of the mountain, conducts to the spot where, upon the left hand, the water gushes forth in a clear and continued stream. The work about the fountain was, until lately, very antient: not long ago there was an antient cistern in front of it; but the present monks, finding the work in a ruined state, undertook to repair it, and thus destroyed much of its original and venerable appearance. In its present state of restoration it is not, however, without picturesque beauty: they have merely erected an arcade of stone, beneath which the water issues; and this arcade is already adorned by Extramoss and by creeping plants, as before de- ordinary scribed. The walks about the fountain, winding of the into the deep solitude of HELICON, are in the highest degree beautiful: all above is grand and striking; and every declivity of the mountain is covered with luxuriant shrubs, or pastured by browsing flocks; while the pipe of

beauty

Scenery.

(5) Ἐν Ἑλικῶνι δὲ πρὸς τὸ ἄλσος ἰόντι τῶν Μουσῶν, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ μὲν ἡ 'Ayzúsra anyá. Ibid. c. 29, p. 766.

CHAP. the shepherd, mingling its sound with that of the bells upon the goats and the sheep, is heard at intervals, among the rocks, producing an effect happily adapted to the character and genius of the place. Higher up the mountain, at the distance of twenty stadia (two miles and a half) from this Grove, and from the FOUNTAIN AGANIPPE, was the FOUNTAIN HIPPOCRENE, fabled to have sprung from the earth, when struck by the hoof of Pegasus': and here the inhabitants exhibited to Pausanias a most antient votive offering made of lead, " inscribed," says he, "with that poem of Hesiod's which is called "WORKS.'"

Situation

of the Fountain

Hippo

crene.

(1) Επαναβάντι δὲ στάδια ἀπὸ τοῦ ἄλσους τούτου ὡς εἴκοσιν, ἔστιν ἡ τοῦ "Ιππου καλουμένη κρήνη. ταύτην τὸν Βελλεροφόντου ποιησαί φασιν ἵππον, ἐπι Taúsavra óxλỹ rūs yñs. Pausan. Bævt. c. 31. p. 771. edit. Kuhnii.For the origin of this fable, sce Note (2), page 94.

(2) Καί μοι κόλιβδον ἐδείκνυσαν ἔνθα ἡ πηγὴ, τὰ πολλὰ ὑπὸ τοῦ χρόνου λιλι μασμένα γίγραπται δὲ αὐτῷ τὰ ἔργα, Ibid.

CHAP. IV.

GROVE OF THE MUSES, UPON MOUNT HELICON, TO LEBADEA.

Plants of Helicon-View from the Heights-Valley of Sagara-Ascra-Summit of Helicon-Descent of the Mountain-Kotûmala-Panori-Lebadéa-House of the Archon-Manners of the higher class of Modern Greeks-Order of their meals-Society -Paywdoì— Ceremony observed in holding a Divân - Low prideDresses Etiquette concerning slippers - Albanian Tenants-Joannina-Modern state of Lebadéa-Hieron of Trophonius-Uncertainty respecting the AdytumSources of the Hercyna-Validity of the remarks by Pausanias-Further account of the sources of the River -Water