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On our arrival, the circumstance pliments, said, with an air of triumph, that particularly struck us, as a fea- i. Ci noi avete lasciate Schiavi, e ci ture entirely different from all that noi trovate uomini liberi !” The peowe had observed on a former visit, ple had all encouraged their dark was the military appearance of the mustaches; and those who were people, every barber, every dapper dressed in the uniform of the nashopkeeper, every vain and lazy Sig- tional guards, green faced with red, norino, was metamorphosed into made a very gallant appearance. A soldier ;
We now leave Toledo, and take Full of strange oaths, and bearded like the our way to the Largo del Palazzo, pard ;
a large open place, which will be Jealous in honor, sudden and quick in rather fine, if the range of buildings quarrel ;
in front of the palace be ever finishSeeking the bubble reputation,
ed; we found it, however, in the not, indeed,“ in the cannon's mouth," same condition that we had left it, but in the coffee-houses, which were encumbered with scaffoldings, and filled with noisy Neapolitans bawl- screens, and heaps of stonet One ing politics, and breathing defiance. passes from the Largo del Palazzo
The “Giornale delle Due Sicilie,” the by a broad way looking over the only newspaper they ever had, had arsenal and the sea, which is called now adopted the more spirited title “Strada del Gigante;" it is so called of “ Giornale Costituzionale, and from an immense and hideous statue, was bearded by a host of rivals, as which once deformed the place, and 6. Lo Spirito del Secolo," “ L'lnde- of which the head and trunk are now pendente," “ L'Amico della Costitu- deposited in a lumber room of the zione," “ La Minerva Napolitana,” Studj. Turning round to the right &c. &c. The streets were taken up, from this street, we reach Santa Luevery here and there, by knots of cia, which is another broad way
well people engaged in loud and arrogant flagged, and having on one side a dispute ; every third word was Li- row of large irregular houses that bertà, or Tedeschi, Parlamento, or look over the bay; and on the other, Armata, &c. We heard continually ranges of stalls, covered with slopsuch questions, and such salutations ing canvas roofs, where fish, “ frut
« Nè ci vedremo alla vendita sta ta di mare," shells, &c. are sold ; sera." “ O' Signor Gran Maestro!” these are flanked by a low dirty wall, We were met in Toledo by an old and by several ugly and ridiculous acquaintance, who, after a few com- fountains, some of which are no
Vidc p. 517, last Vol. + These buildings are a church to be dedicated to San. Francesco di Paolo, and a colonnade forming a crescent. The church is in the middle of the colonnade ; it is to have a cupola in imitation of St. Peter's at Rome, which will be peculiarly ill placed here, and out of harmony with the near objects. The colonnade is too low, it is fronted and flanked by lofty plain palaces, and high buildings that rise immediately behind it on the hills of the Solitario and Santo Spirito, seem quite to smother it. The architect is Bianchi, an Italian Swiss, from Lugano; a Roman sculptor, but a very poor workinan, is employed on the exterior figures ; and Schweigle, a German, and an artist of great merit, is to do one or two principal statues.
longer furnished with water: these ancient, we consider them as deservcontemptible things are mentioned by ing no great attention. Two or three poor Giannone, the best historian of edifices adorn, or are intended to Naples, as great ornaments to the adorn this promenade ; there is a sort city, and memorials of the taste and of circular temple on one side, in magnificence of various viceroys. A which there is a very poor and unparticular " ceto," or class of people faithful bust of Tasso ; and on the inhabits this neighbourhood ; thou- other side there is a much larger sands of them live in narrow vicoli, building, where it is intended to which run backward from Santa Lu- place a statue of Virgil, but which, cia, and which are seldom entered as yet, is without any inhabitant. by any but the “ Santa-Luciani ;” The pleasant part of the villa is at these people are nearly all pescatori the end towards Posilippo, where, to and pescevendori (fishermen and sel- the right of the grand path, it is lers of fish), they are particularly formed into shady bosquets, called distinguished by their loyalty, and “ Il Giardino Inglese.” the costume of their women. At the The great beauty of this promeend of Santa Lucia we turn another nade, the beauty which renders it, angle, still keeping along the shore, perhaps, superior to any public walk and reach Chiatamone; at this corner in Europe, and which no labour could the hill of Piazzafalcone, which is very well spoil, is the view to which seen above the houses on Santa Lu- it gives access : towards the end is a cia, is cut down precipitately, and terrace, which has been erected withalmost looks like a wall. Just here in the last three or four years, projectwe pass the causeway conducting to ing into the sea; the view thence is the Castello dell' Uova; it is a long enchanting, particularly when the sun narrow ledge, and the memorable goes behind the long green hill of castle itself stands on a rock in the Posilippo, and throws its purple rays sea. On Chiatamone there is a pleaover the bay full on that part of the sant palace with a little garden, at town, now called the “ Pizzafalpresent belonging to the king, and cone” (the ancient Mons Echia, where there are several good houses, which the luxurious Lucullus had one of are generally let out to foreigners. his many habitatious), which throws The continuation of this terrace, itself out in a bold and lofty headcalled La Vittoria, leads to the Villa land. Reale. This public garden is, in- Mr. Hobhouse has unwarily and deed, a pleasant place; a broad walk incorrectly censured Mr. Eustace, on leads down the middle; on either side account of the latter gentleman's are two paths shaded by acacias : having asserted, that the Villa was there are also parterres of flowers, and adorned with orange-trees. When fountains ornamented with statues, Mr. Hobhouse was in Naples there which, like a great number that are were certainly no orange-trees there; ranged along the length of the Villa, but it is equally certain, that when are copies from the antique. In the Mr. Eustace was, there were ; inmiddle of the great walk stands the deed, there was scarcely any thing celebrated group of the Toro : an else but oranges and vines; but the imitation of rocks is placed in a circu- French, who entirely altered, and lar trough, at the base of the pedestal considerably extended the gardens, on which it is raised, and several removed them, and planted acacias little jets d'eau, which spirt out from in their stead. It may, perhaps, be the rocks, are collected in the trough, considered unlucky that this circumwhich is adorned by some aquatic stance was not known, or did not plants, and in which a number of occur to the defenders of Mr. Eudirty coloured ducks are kept. Of stace's accuracy, among whom, howthis group enough, perhaps, has been ever, we cannot on every occasion said, but we cannot forbear observ- enrol ourselves. ing, that, to us, it seems (in its The grand Corso runs along close present state) little to be admired; the to and parallel with the Villa, and is head of the bull is certainly very fine, a wide well paved street, or rather but the hinder quarters are faulty; row, since there are no houses on and as for the figures that surround the side of the Villa, and in this range it, which are half modern and half are the best and almost the only pleas
sant habitations of which Naples can summer about ten; bút no incon boast. Of this Neapolitans are well venience can shake the uniformity of aware, and compel foreigners to pay custom ; her laws are here immutaan extravagant price for lodgings in ble and undisputed: it is a pity, this quarter ; an English family often really, that a few virtuous customs pays as much for a suite of apart- cannot be established. ments on the Riviera di Chiaja, as The Corso is a fine exhibition of would be paid for a whole house in Neapolitan pride and folly, and is a fashionable square in London. often amusing enough for a pedesThere is something curious in letting trian, who takes no part in these fourhouses at Naples; the nobles in wheeled or two-wheeled excursions, former times occupied the whole of and who is incited to observation by their immense palaces, but in these that feeling, half envy and half con days of retrenchment and humility tempt, which finds its way into the they condescend to let out their piani breast of him who goes on foot. The (floors), only taking care to secure coaches roll in two lines, one adexorbitant prices, thus “ hiding their vancing and one returning ; and as honor in their necessity," or rather there is always an immense quanpropitiating their pride by procuring tity, the lines extend the whole length means to indulge their luxury: but of the Corso, about a mile, and are some of these not only let out their so compact, that when the files are floors, but also furnish their lodgers once formed, no straggler can well with dinners, suppers, &c. for simi- enter them : they roll on slowly, very lar considerations.
slowly, and stop ever and anon, for The Corso extends beyond the they are subject to many little interVilla ; and leaving on the right the ruptions. Now and then a miserable straight road which leads to the horse in a miserable corribilo falls grotto of Posilippo, sweeps round down, and until he can be restored the shore towards Strada Nuova, to the position which nature assigned passes under the tomb of Virgil, and to him, the whole procession, Princes winding along Mergellina, ends a and Dukes, Knights and Ladies, Gelittle below the church which con- nerals and Lawyers, and Bishops, tains the tomb of Sannazarius. This must wait. On Sundays and other is the prescribed Corso, and hardly giorni di festa, the facchini, mechanics, any Neapolitan thinks of extending and other people, from Bosso lo Molo, his ride to the beautiful Strada Il Borgo di Sant'Antonio, Il MerNuova, that commands such fine cato, &c. adorn the Corso with a views of the bay, but turning short new grace; the men are usually acround, by a contemptible fountain companied by their fair ones, and of lions, returns the way he came, are very closely crammed into their and goes backward and forward as respective carriages, or corribili, yet long as there is sufficient light to see they appear equally, if not more, and be seen. Day after day he re- pleased than the every day visitors. peats his ride, with a constancy which On particular feasts, such as Easter is highly amusing. The time for this and Whitsuntide, the lines are reperiodical exercise is venti tre ore, inforced by the country people from and winter or summer, at the hour Fuori Grotta, &c.: the carriages confixed, the Neapolitans repair thither taining these worthies are generally in crowds. In summer this hour is distinguished by being overloaded ; good enough, for it is that glorious by the company in them, men and hour which sees the sinking of the women, being generally pretty drunk; sun, and in which a sweet twilight by their being covered with boughs, and a refreshing breeze begin to suc- and by the gilt jackets of the women. ceed to the intense glare, and op- All these pass on, admiring and pressive heats of the day ; but in win- commenting on the beauties of the ter it is almost the worst time that show. The lines being, as we have could be selected: the Neapolitans, said, very close, at every interruphowever, persevere through good and tion the pole of one coach is thrust through bad. There is the same wise between the footman's legs on the regulation with respect to the the- coach before ; and as it is impossible atres, which open at due ore di notte, to draw up in a moment, this somes: in winter about seven o'clock, in times happens to ten or twelve cara
riages following, and elicits various not lead anywhere. It sweeps round explanations, between coachmen and the end of Posilippo, and stops abfootmen, which are always very pithy ruptly at a steep. It was intended and emphatic, and we have observed, that it should descend to Pozzuoli consist chiefly of adjectives, nouns, and afford an easy and agreeable and a few favorite verbs, receiving communication with that interesting very little assistance from other in- part of the neighbourhood of Naples, ferior parts of speech: now and then at the same time avoiding the long a soldier, one of those placed to pre- dark cold gloomy grotto of Posilippo, serve order, volunteers his opinion which was then, and is now the upon the matter in debate, and ge- only road to the country towards nerally testifies the same singular Baja, Cuma, &c. This road, which contempt for connectives; his elo- would be so useful, so necessary, and quence is sometimes illustrated in a so beautiful, stops at the edge of the remarkably familiar manner, which, hill, at a point which commands one though not admitted in the schools, of the most beautiful views in the envi. is much used in vulgar life, and al- rons of Naples, especially in autumn ways produces instantaneous convic- and in spring, when in the evening all tion. The soldiers, however, it must the scene around is radiant with the be confessed, show a very unjust glories of the setting sun. Ischia, partiality for the humbler members Procita, Baja, Pozzuoli, the mounof the Corso, and usually bestow their tain of the Camaldoli, shine out in the most impressive remarks upon the warm mellow hues, and the exaggemeanest classes of the community. ration of evening; the little island of
The vehicles collected here are of Nisita, black in shade, is just beneath almost every fashion, colour, and con- the eye, being but a very small disdition; we have carriages, landaus, tance from the Capo di Posilippo; and landaulets, tandems, droskies,canestre, the broad flat land below, which ends corribili, and dog-carts; some are at the slope of the hills that shut in
elegant and gay, some are old and the Lago Agnano and the Solfatara, decayed; a family coach wheeled is adorned by an impressive variety out with care, and drawn by two of shade and colour. The road is bare-boned horses, with two ancient partly cut out in a sort of ledge in codgers mounted behind, furnish- the hill, and partly built up on the ed with bits of red cloth for their side towards the sea; the cutting of collars and sleeves, to show they are the hill, however, cannot have been in livery, is perhaps followed by a attended with much difficulty, as it light dashing English landau, and is composed of a soft tufo, which may that by a corribilo with a foundered, be separated by a common knife; and one-eyed horse, fastened by a rotten this circumstance makes the long harness of ropes.
Such is the corso perforation of the grotto of Posilippo of Naples ; but we have not yet men- less extraordinary than it would have tioned a trifling circumstance which been in almost any other mountain. deserves to be remarked ; at the end In several parts the road is carried by towards Mergellina it passes a row of bridges over deep ravines. A few mean half-ruined houses, the babita- paces after leaving the corso we leave tions of fishermen, whose black pitch- also the pavé, and soon arrive at the ed boats lie just opposite on the large ruined palace about which M. sands, and whose children, some Dupaty was so sentimental; this half-naked, some stark-naked, meet palace is called by the common peothe eye wherever it turns, and con- ple Il Palazzo di Donna Anna, and by tinually clamour" date ci qualche cosa the polite that of the Regina Gio
vanna. That lady had a palace at But let us leave this scene, and take Posilippo, and on the sea-shore; but a silent walk along the Strada Nuova; according to some old Neapolitan this is certainly a fine road in every gentry who are skilled in these matrespect, but particularly in its situa- ters, it certainly was not near bere; tion, and as a most agreeable walk it was situated at the end of the hill, or ride; it is not at present of much beyond the little village of Mareuse, as it has the defect incidental to chiano, very near the Roman ruins, passages in old castles which we called, we know not why, La Scuola have sometimes seen, that is, it does di Virgilio, and there indeed we find the shell of a palace which very pro- could make solitude beautiful, or ease bably was hers. The building in luxurious : indeed, we are not the question was the work of one of the only travellers who have remarked Viceroys, but, like many other large the felicity of selection by which undertakings in this country, the plan those reverend gentlemen were so exceeded the means appropriated for distinguished. its execution, and after the death of In one beautiful point, just by two the Viceroy it was abandoned and little rocks, called by the country peosuffered to fall into ruins without ple Li Scogli di Pietro e Paolo, stands ever having been finished. It is, the house of Domenico Cirelli, the however, a very picturesque object, victim, perhaps the most to be dethough it must be deprived of the in- plored, of the revolution of ninetyterest which would attach to it as nine; it remained unoccupied until the residence of beauty, misfortune, lately, and the person who then took and vice. It stands on the edge of it, found the portraits of the physithe road, which indeed it formerly cian's family, things which probably crossed, and with which its middle he had esteemed as much as all his stories still communicate ; its upper house possessed besides, left to negstories rise above, and its lower de- lect, and damps, and ruin, as if of scend to the shore, and some rooms, so little value that no one thought or rather caverns contained within them worth the trouble of removing. the massy walls, admit the sea, and The road continues to rise gently: in probably were intended to serve as some places the descent to the sea is baths; in one of the immense halls sudden and precipitous, but geneopening on the shore, there is during rally it consists in pleasant slopes, the fine season a Neapolitan taverna, planted with fine vines which hang in where people go and eat fish by thick festoons. At about the highest moonlight; there are also a few rooms, point of the ascent there is a small used by persons who resort there in flat, which was given by the court, summer for sea-bathing, and these with some land on the declivity, to are all of this immense palace which the Margravine of Anspach, and that ever serves as a shelter for man. lady has erected a pleasure house on There is a darkness and desolation in the spot. It were to be wished that the interior, in its wide halls, its ruin- an edifice in such a beautiful and reed arches, and vaults, and spiral stair- markable situation should be classicases, and its dismal heaps of rul- cal and appropriate, but we think the bish, which will furnish materials building in question is neither the for meditation, founded on grander one nor the other: the land is sepa< and more solemn subjects than the rated from the road by a wooden railvices of a queen or the crosses of a ing, and the first object that catches lady's love.
the attention is a porter's lodge, low, On leaving this palace, we keep dark, and heavy, and fronted by coalong the road, enjoying the open and lumns made in imitation of the ponbeautiful view; the green descent be- derous pillars of the temples of low the road leads the eye down to the Pæstum: the house itself is a dull edge of the sea : the indented shore urmeaning square building, which is thickly scattered with houses, once seems by its heaviness, and discordthe resort of the gentry of Naples, ance with all the aerial objects proving that once even Neapoli- around, to be sinking into the hill. tans were sensible of the beau- The lodge is such a silly and solemn ties of nature, and of the charms edifice that the Neapolitans call it the of solitude, and showing by their Sepolcro della Margravia ; indeed, present desolation and ruin that a report was spread when it first they are sensible of such things no reared its grim head, that it was inlonger. There are also two or three tended as a sepulchre for that lady,ruined monasteries most delightfully nobody once suspected it was a pleasituated; the spots which nature sure house. seems to have been most careful and A little beyond this, there is a road curious to adorn, have been common- which leads to the top of Posilippo, ly those chosen by the heedful monks, going along which, we pass two for the erection of their retreats, in villages; the one nearest to Naples is order that they might enjoy all that called in the true Neapolitan dialect,