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VI. CLOTHING.

What should be Worn next the close and even. Pass the hand lightly Skin?-The primary consideration in in the contrary direction to the nap, dress is what should be worn next to and if the feel is soft and silky withthe skin? We answer - wool, de-out harshness, you may conclude the cidedly, and for the following reasons: cloth is made of fine wool. Very -Linen, by all its compactness retains "satiny" cloths spot with the rain. the perspired matter, so that shirts Take up a piece of cloth in both hands, worn for some days will exhale a sen- and fold a little piece between the sation of coolness, indicating an ob- thumb and forefinger of one hand; structed circulation. Silk attracts less pull the cloth sharply with the other humidity than linen, and is, therefore, hand, and if the sound produced by still more objectionable. Wool, by the slipping of the fold is clear and the gentle friction and moderate heat sharp, the cloth is of good quality. which it excites, promotes perspira- Do not choose large patterns if you tion, and absorbs the matter thrown are short, and if you are stout do not out from the skin, without clogging wear checks or plaids. the pores. Cotton increases warmth and perspiration; but having the property of retaining the discharged humours, is too apt to throw the same back again into the system, and thereby hurting the animal fluids. It is, however, during active exercise that the different effects of the substances are more plainly seen. When the body is covered with woollen, though perspiration is increased, the matter thrown out passes through the flannel into the air, leaving the skin dry and warm. If, under the same circumstances, linen is warm, the perspiration instead of being dispersed, remains, and causes a disagreeable sensation. Flannel has also this advantage: those who perspire profusely will not easily catch cold on going into the open air. This is not the case with linen shirts, which will produce chilliness, followed by fever. Flannel when first used is apt to irritate the skin, and so cause an uneasy feeling; this soon goes off, and it becomes at length comfortable and even pleasant. Flannel is suitable to all seasons. Worsted socks and stockings, varied in thickness, according to the season, are on all accounts the best.

In Choosing Cloth for Clothes see that the fabric is fine and the texture

Clothes for Travelling.-Every traveller should wear flannel next the skin both in hot and cold climates. Linen is very improper, for when the wearer is wet with rain or perspiration, it strikes cold to the skin; coarse calico sheets, for fine, hot, dry weather, and flannel for damp, windy, or cold, may be considered generally appropriate. A poncho is very useful, for it is a sheet as well as a cloak, being simply a blanket with a slit in the middle to admit the wearer's head. Cloth is made waterproof, as directed (see Receipt) and also by rubbing soapsuds into the wrong side, and working well in; when dry do the same with a solution of alum. A thick tweed shooting costume is the most comfortable and best dress for all except damp or tropical climates. If you are likely to have much riding, leather or moleskin trousers are useful, or tweed trousers may be covered down the insides of the legs with leather. A blouse or jacket, cut short to clear the saddle, is capital either for walking or riding. Another "indispensable" is a thick lined dressing gown. It is equally good to wear in the evening and for sleeping in. Thick worsted socks only should be worn, whether the climate be hot or cold,

It is im

portant to keep the clothes as dry as possible, and if on the water a capital plan is to dip the wet clothes in the salt water, wring them out, and put them on again. This, we are told on good authority, feels like a change of dry clothes.

To Brush Clothes.-If a coat be wet let it be quite dry before brushing it. Rub out the spots of dirt with the hands, beat it lightly with a small cane. Then lay it out on a board or table, the collar to the left hand, and brush, briskly and smoothly, the right way of the cloth. Brush first the shoulders, back and sleeves, and then the skirts. Last the insides and the collar. Waistcoats and trousers are brushed straight down, taking care they are quite dry, and rubbing out spots of mud, &c., before brushing down. You should have two brushes, one hard and the other soft, the former of which should be used as little as possible, and never for "faced" cloth. Should there be spots of tallowgrease on the clothes, take it off with the nail; or, if that cannot be done, take a hot iron, cover the part where the grease is with some thick brown paper, and run the iron over the spot. This will draw the grease into the paper. Repeat this process until no more grease comes. Ordinary grease-spots or marks on the collar or lappels may generally be removed by a little soft soap, or a little ox-gall or curd soap. Fruit and wine stains may frequently be taken out by holding the part over an ordinary brimstone match, lighted; or by water with a little salts of lemon, muriatic or oxalic acid in it. These last must not, however, be applied to delicate colours. For the stains of acids wash the part with a little spirits of hartshorn or liquid ammonia. Ox-gallisone of the most valuable articles for cleansing woollen and other articles; it combines readily with all greasy substances, and assists powerfully the action of soap, which may in many cases be dispensed with. Silks and all other articles of even the most delicate colours may be cleaned with it. The chief objection to its use is its disagreeable smell; this is

got rid of thus: Boil a quart of the gall, skimming it frequently, then add one ounce of powdered alum; leave on the fire until thoroughly combined. Set the mixture to cool, and pour it, when cold, into a bottle which is to be loosely corked. Proceed exactly in the same way with another quart of gall, using one ounce of common salt instead of alum. The two bottles are to be put by for three months in a room of moderate temperature; a thick sediment will be deposited, but, as a good deal of yellow colouring matter still remains, the contents of the two bottles, carefully poured off from the sediment, are to be filtered separately, and then mixed in equal parts, a portion at a time. The colouring matter will be precipitated, leaving the gall perfectly pure and colourless. It is then to be again filtered, bottled and tightly corked, and kept in a cool place for use. In this state it preserves all its detergent properties, is free from smell, and does not spoil with keeping.

Mending Clothes. Things neatly mended last four times as long as those carelessly repaired. Too much pains cannot, therefore, be expended on the prosaic but very necessary operation of "mending clothes." A piece of each material should be reserved, in making up dresses, &c., for repairing when needed. All things should be periodically examined, and rents sewn up before they go farther. When the linen is looked out for the wash it should be examined to see if there is anything wrong, and after washing, &c., all buttons should be looked to, and made tight and secure. If chamber towels are wearing thin in the centre, cut them in halves, sew the edges together, and hem the cut-now the outside edges. Sew up torn linings, rebind frayed edges, and replace broken strings, buttons, and hooks, directly seen, or the trouble will be greatly increased. Never forget the well-known aphorism, "A stitch in time saves nine."

Altering Clothes.-In altering clothes for children from those of adults take the pattern of the best fitting things and copy exactly. Some practice,

knowledge, and physical strength are required to do this tailors' work, and therefore without these essentials it had becter be left alone. The right way to proceed cannot be taught in books, and even when learned is seldom worth the trouble.

Clothes Closets, Drawers, &c. When moths have infested these places rub ther: well with a strong decoction of tobacco, and sprinkle them often with spirits of camphor.

Black Clothes may be Restored if threadbare about the elbows, cuffs, knees, &c., by the following process: -The clothes must be soaked in cold water for half an hour, then taken out of the water, and put on a board, and the threadbare parts of the clothes rubbed with a teazel, or half-worn hatter's " card," filled with flocks. When this is done, hang the coat up to dry, and with a hard brush lay the nap the right way. This is said to be the method which is pursued by the dealers in old clothes, and it greatly improves the appearance of the garments. Ladies' Dress.-The secret of dressing well, simply consists in knowing the three grand unities of dress--your own position, age, and pecularities, and no woman can dress well who does

not.

surd, as to dress a babe or young child in tight garments; but they should be of materials suited to the season. It is not necessary to give direction for the cutting or making of children's dresses, as almost every mother or elder sister knows how to cut out and make simple frocks, jackets, &c.; and when that knowledge has not been obtained in youth, a few lessons from a practical dressmaker will suffice. Carefully avoid the absurdity of swaddling a child's body in heaps of flannel and warm stuffs, and leaving its legs and arms bare. Too many clothes, however, are as mischievous as too few. Contrast in colours is of no slight importance. Light colours and thin materials for summer; bright warm colours, and stout cloth for winter. The head should be cool, and the feet well shod. Long clothes and caps for infants are happily going out of fashion, and a more rational style of dress adopted by all sensible mothers.

Tight Lacing.-Avoid all tight bandages-as stays, garters, belts, &c. They impede the free circulation of the blood, and in thousands of cases produce disease and deformity. More harm has been done by tight-lacing, than by all the other vagaries of fashion put together.

The Covering of the Head should be very light, as well for men as for women, and if children were more often allowed to go bare-headed into the open air, the practice would much invigorate their constitutions, and render them less susceptible of cold. No one, however, should go uncovered in sunshine. Black hats, though generally worn, are not so good a defence against the power of the sun as hats or caps of any other colour.

Dress should be simple, elegant and becoming, without appearing so expensive as to evidently be beyond the circumstances of the wearer. Consider well before you purchase whether the new silk, Lonnet, shawl, or ribbon matches your complexion, is adapted to your height and figure, and, above all, that it is graceful and pretty-not merely fashionable. You must also adapt, as much as possible, your new purchases to the things you already have, so as to show no bad contrasts. Dress with regard to your station in life, your age, and your ap- Keep your Feet Warm.-If you do pearance. not do this, the blood accumulates toChildrens' Clothing should be well-wards the head, and sensation of chilcut, but sufficiently loose to allow fair liness is felt over the whole body, and play to the limbs. Nothing is so ab- the general comfort interfered with.

!

VII. GARDEN MANAGEMENT.

Practical Hints for Keeping a

Garden.

THE chief and most important matters to be attended to by cultivators, whether on a large or small scale, are comprised in the following simple and essential rules :

every implement and tool not in use, both in winter and in summer.

12. Allow no blanks in edgings, rows, single specimens, drills, beds, and even when practicable, in broadcast sown pieces. Keep edgings and borders cut to the utmost nicety. Keep all the walks in perfect form, free from weeds, dry and well rolled, and lawns and grass-plots of a close texture and a dark-green velvety appearance.

Simple Directions for Each

1. Let every thing be done in its proper season and in the best manner. 2. This is to be accomplished only by intelligent practice. For example, in digging over a piece of ground, it is not uncommon to throw the weeds and stones on the ground or on the adjoining alley or walk, with Month in the Year. the intention of gathering them up The following is a brief summary of afterwards. The best way is to have such things as are most needful to be a wheelbarrow, or large basket, in done by amateur gardeners in the vawhich to put the weeds and extra-rious months of the year. The temneous matter, as they are taken out of the ground.

3. Complete every part of your work as you proceed.

4. Finish one job before beginning another.

5. In leaving off work at any job, leave the work and tools in an orderly manner. In leaving off work for the day, make a temporary finish, and carry the tools to the tool-house.

6. In passing to and from work, or on any occasion, look out for leaves, or any other deformity, and remove them.

7. In gathering a crop, remove at the same time the roots, leaves, stems, or whatever else is of no further use, or may appear to be decaying, or offensive.

8. Let no crop of fruit, or vegetables, go to waste on the spot.

9. Cut down the flower-stalks of all plants.

10. Keep every part of the garden perfect in its kind.

11. Attend at all times to implements and tools, keeping them clean, sharp, and in perfect repair. House

perature, and the state of the weather must be taken into consideration, but as nearly as can be the work set down for the month should be done in it.

January.-Dig and manure when the frost will permit; let the digging be deep, and rough, or raised into ridges. Trenching is noble work for winter, and need not be hindered by pretty hard frost. Plant in mild weather, and prune in any weather, all manner of trees and bushes. Walltraining, which requires much time, may be greatly advanced at this season. A little may be done in sowing on warm borders, for an early crop, a few early peas and beans, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuces, and parsley. Hot-beds may be prepared for forcing plants. Cauliflowers and early cabbages may be sown in them. Protect by mats, or branches of spruce fir, delicate shrubs, and also new-sown beds. Care must be taken of dahlia roots and stored bulbs, that they do not suffer by exposure to frost, or become mouldy from damp and want of air. Walks may be formed, fruit and other trees and hedges pruned, palings made

or repaired, deciduous trees and shrubs planted.

Here we may remark on the value of wood-charcoal as an ingredient of manure. It has the effect of absorbing both the beneficial and harmful gases, &c., that the soil of previous growing crops have produced; in the one case storing food, and in the other preventing injury to the growing plant. Hence the common but less beneficial use of coal-ashes, the mineral constituents of which, together with those of charcoal, afford potash, silica, and other minerals, for the use of the plant. In setting plants a common error is to put them in too deep. The roots will always find their own way downwards in search of moisture and food. A good rule is to plant so, that the top of the radiating branch of the root shall only be two or three inches below the surface of the soil. It should be remembered that all the vitalizing influence of the soil depends on the ready access of air. Sticks, labels, &c., for spring use may now be prepared.

February.-In frost, the same work as directed in the previous month. In mild weather dig, trench, ridge, and prepare such ground as has been well exposed to frost, and sow in dry weather for a succession of crops, peas, beans, onions, carrots, parsnips, spinach, every sort of sweet herbs and salad, celery, cauliflower, cabbage, and savoys. Plant early cabbages; cut a few early potatos, and put them in a warm place, with some dry earth, that they may sprout and form roots; then plant at the foot of a south-wall, where a few spruce branches will keep off the frost. Form walks, plant boxedging, or dress borders and shrubberies. The pruning of vines should be concluded during February; also prune gooseberries and currants, standard and espalier trees; dress and tie up raspberries, erect espalier rails, and continue the training of wall-fruit-trees, keeping back such as are too luxuriant, and stimulating those which are backward by judicious manuring. In hotbeds, or under glass frames, set slips, or cuttings of various plants this month,

such as fine wall-flowers, delicate shrubs, and China roses; sow stocks, and a variety of the stronger annuals that agree with transplanting. Plant bulbous roots, ranunculuses, hazelnuts, filberts, &c., in deep trenched beds. Lose no time in having everything ready for the operations of March, the principle seed-time of the year. Green fly and other insects in hot-beds, &c., should be destroyed by smoking.

March.-Sow all manners of seed for a principal crop; beans, peas, leeks, onions, early turnips, Dutch turnips, vegetable marrows, carrots, parsnips, turnip radishes, asparagus, celery, cauliflower, brocoli, borage, beet, Brussels sprouts, and spinach. Plant early, late, and red cabbage, and seakale, and take cauliflowers from the frame, with a little ball of earth, and plant them on the earliest and richest border. Strawberries may also be planted now, but the best season is in autumn. Dress strawberry beds and flower borders. Divide and straighten flower edgings, form walks, plant shrubs and shrubbery flowers next the walks. Engraft fruit-trees, and, on the common brier, various sorts of roses. Make layers of roses and shrubs, sow perennial and biennial flowerseeds, and some of the more hardy annuals. Protect all early blossom on walls by woollen nets, tender plants and flowers with mats or green branches. Hoe early peas, and fill up blanks in the drills, by transplanting from the thicker parts. By the end of this month you should have finished all grafting, pruning, and training.

April.-Begin early by sowing and planting whatever has been prevented by unfavourable weather. Plant artichokes, asparagus, seakale, cabbages, and German greens; sow peas and beans for a succession; also carrots and turnips. Transplant lettuces, water cauliflower plants, and seedling beds. Dress box-edging; plant evergreens, and make layers of fine shrubs. Propagate by cutting wall-flowers, lavender, and primrose, and by separating the roots of all sweet herbs. Form flower edgings of dwarf-gentian, sea

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