where the boys and girls do merch: small value, and so learn to make av ing into the laws of this State I f each county to organise into tow? purposes. They generally do settled the township system con avoid confusion incorporated town. district called a township, are: villages. Any populous place of i may become a city; any place o. a village.

To go back to the farmers: simple but shrewd sort of farmers might be. They g paper and an agricultural some of them struck me as some had no separate livi houses first built in a newly prove, if the people are to

In these Western Sta names of places, marking a America, the French an not so long back was a re scene of French settlen long time ago; and the in West Pennsylvania. After this visit to Chicago, and there: more of the sights o I am more and of drinking wine ? here one sees no s table at meals the ! The bars too seem of drinks. At some was to be got to 'Murphy had been ment against dri the lower classes ently this abstine gathered that m may call the lot.

are

, families, and household goods. He considers Pennan farming first-rate; but good land there is very dear an cannot make much by it. The best of the Pennan country is in the eastern valleys. The western narrow and precipitous. The Pennsylvanian grow wheat and keep a good many cows, but he seems that they do not go in very much for dairy-farming. most paying crop of late has been tobacco: they have vered that they can grow it. A very large proportion. he well-to-do farmers in this part of the country are inans, called 'Dutch' by the Americans. There are also y Scotch-Irish; but the regular Irish are not so good. e Germans still speak very much among themselves a local erman, different from the school German. They all underand German. Most of them are Protestants. Here also e farmers generally own their own land; but some rent, and that case they prefer the share system. It answers very well with an honest man, but you are apt to be cheated. He has had experience of this system on a farm of his own, which has been long rented. The tenant gives him half of the corn and hay. He knows a farmer who gives two-thirds; but then the proprietor supplies the seed and the working stock. In this part of the country they have no trouble or ill-feeling about religious questions, though Catholic priests want to proselytise children when they can. I also talked to a German. He came out at the age of eighteen, and is substantially an American. He served in the Federal army during the war, and saved $500, also made little money in other ways, and now bitterly regrets that he did not put his savings into the land. If he had he would have been safe and well off now. As it is he seems to have lost his money. He has a good enough place as traveller for a machinist, with $3 a day and expenses; but, as he says, there is no knowing how long that will last, whereas land lasts for ever. He says the Germans work well, and have the great advantage that the women work as well as the men, while American women will not work. In the West, however, the women are comparatively few, and they have enough other work to do. German emigration has been much checked recently, but many Swedes and Norwegians come, and some people who are called Russians. I fancy these are Mnemonites.

Pittsburgh is a very smoky-looking place; but it is sur

good shops, neat villa-residences, and a quiet, decent-looking people.

In the morning I started again. Almost immediately after leaving Crestline the ground began to undulate, and eventually became quite hilly, with a good many streams, running more or less, but for the most part somewhat sluggish. This is the character of the country till we get towards Pittsburgh. There is always a great abundance of natural wood, principally hard wood, ash and suchlike, but comparatively few pines. A very large proportion of the fields had still stumps in them, even those in the middle of considerable towns. As we got on, however, the homesteads improved and became better-looking than most of those that I had seen in Illinois. Much of the route, with fine woods scattered about, is extremely park-like, and the autumn foliage is very pretty; indeed, altogether it seemed as smiling a country as one could wish to see; that is, for a country only partially cleared and cultivated. I began to realise the beauty of the American autumn foliage of which one has heard so much. The leaves certainly turn to very bright and showy colours, such as one never sees in Europe. I saw some very good specimens of this kind of thing; but in this particular respect I am told that I am not fortunate in the season, as there has not been the sudden change to frost which causes the most brilliant hues.

PENNSYLVANIA.

In the latter part of this journey we entered the State of Pennsylvania. As we came along towns and villages became more and more populous; in fact, the last hundred miles or so into Pittsburgh was full of manufacturing places forming what might be called an American Sheffield country joined to an American Birmingham at Pittsburgh. The country here becomes very hilly. We came into the valley of the Beaver River, then into that of the Ohio, then a little way up the Alleghany river, crossing which we came into Pittsburgh.

In the train I met a talkative old Pennsylvania gentleman, very like an Englishman in voice and manner-I think Pennsylvanians are often so. He had just come back from Iowa, which he thinks a good country; but he saw there a good many emigrants moving further West, with their

waggons, families, and household goods. He considers Pennsylvanian farming first-rate; but good land there is very dear

a man cannot make much by it. The best of the Pennsylvanian country is in the eastern valleys. The western valleys are narrow and precipitous. The Pennsylvanian people grow wheat and keep a good many cows, but he seems to say that they do not go in very much for dairy-farming. The most paying crop of late has been tobacco: they have discovered that they can grow it. A very large proportion. of the well-to-do farmers in this part of the country are Germans, called 'Dutch' by the Americans. There are also many Scotch-Irish; but the regular Irish are not so good. The Germans still speak very much among themselves a local German, different from the school German. They all understand German. Most of them are Protestants. Here also the farmers generally own their own land; but some rent, and in that case they prefer the share system. It answers very well with an honest man, but you are apt to be cheated. He has had experience of this system on a farm of his own, which has been long rented. The tenant gives him half of the corn and hay. He knows a farmer who gives two-thirds; but then the proprietor supplies the seed and the working stock. In this part of the country they have no trouble or ill-feeling about religious questions, though Catholic priests want to proselytise children when they can. I also talked to a German. He came out at the age of eighteen, and is substantially an American. He served in the Federal army during the war, and saved $500, also made a little money in other ways, and now bitterly regrets that he did not put his savings into the land. If he had he would have been safe and well off now. As it is he seems to have lost his money. He has a good enough place as traveller for a machinist, with $3 a day and expenses; but, as he says, there is no knowing how long that will last, whereas land lasts for ever. He says the Germans work well, and have the great advantage that the women work as well as the men, while American women will not work. In the West, however, the women are comparatively few, and they have enough other work to do. German emigration has been much checked recently, but many Swedes and Norwegians come, and some people who are called Russians. I fancy these are Mnemonites.

Pittsburgh is a very smoky-looking place; but it is sur

rounded by pretty hills, on some of which are vineyards, and altogether the scene looks a good deal like a European Continental town, the smoke apart. My guide-book directed me to the Union Depôt Hotel, but I found it had been burnt down. in last year's riots, and I went to the Seventh Avenue Hotel. The next day was Sunday, and it struck me that Pittsburgh was a singularly dull and uninteresting place on that day; nothing seemed to be going on. The people seem respectable enough; but very many men of various sorts were hanging about the streets in a moody kind of way. I can easily imagine it to be the sort of place for an outbreak like that which occurred last year. However, at present the place is as full of women and children as other places, and one sees wonderfully few signs of last year's destruction. The more I walk about the place the more smoky and grimy and dull-looking it seems to be. I observe many negroes about, many of the women in smart Sunday dresses. The relations between them and the whites appear quite good.

The next day a gentleman connected with the Pennsylvania Central Railway was kind enough to drive me about the town and show me some of the sights. I now learned that there was a special reason for the extreme dullness and want of motion yesterday. It seems that a great Sunday-closing movement has just broken out, an old Act of 1794 having been put in force against the publicans, or saloon-keepers, as they are called in America; and they in turn have put in force the law against everyone else. Almost all the street-cars were stopped and every sort of traffic. The saloon-keepers have established a 'Detective Association' to deal with Sunday-breakers, and are now the great promoters of the closing movement, which is the great question of the day. There used to be very many saloons and much drinking in Pittsburgh; but Murphy' has been very active lately, and is said to have had a great effect. He is here now. I am afraid it seems inconsistent with what I have said in detraction of the Pittsburgh people, but I am told that this is a very Presbyterian and Scotch-Irish place. Before the war many negroes took refuge here, but it is said there are hardly so many of them now as there were then.

This is a great railway centre. A very inconvenient peculiarity of American freedom is the great variety of railway gauges, which gives much trouble in regard to the through lines; but they have got over this difficulty by a system of