REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF ATHENS. The bridge over the Ilissus. The Stadium. The private way. The Eleusinium, or temple of Ceres and Proserpine. I Mosques in the town. 2 A mosque, which served as a magazine. mosque, which was the Lutheran church. 4 A column then standing. 5 A church. 6 A church. 7 Temple of the Muses, according to Fanelli. 8 Sepulchres, styled by Fanelli the prisons of Areopagus. DIRECTIONS FOR THE PLATES. To face p. 23. p. 31. p. 257. p. 263. p. 295. P. 344. VOL. II. GREECE. A plan of Port Piræus. A plan of Athens. A chart of the Bay of Salamis, with the Piræus, &c. A plan of the harbour of Trozen, and of the A chart of the Isthmus of Corinth. TRAVELS IN GREECE. CHAP. I. OUR BARK-WE LEAVE SMYRNA-THE SAILS AND YARDSWE PUT INTO A CREEK-THE VINTAGE BEGUN-OF PSYRA -A STORM-THE NIGHT-WE GAIN A PORT IN EUBASAIL BY CARYSTUS-IN A CREEK OF ATTICA. THE bark, engaged for our voyage from Smyrna to Athens, was one belonging to Hydre, a small island, or rather rock, near Scyllæum, a promontory of the Peloponnesus, opposite to Sunium in Attica. It had two masts, with fourteen men. The hire was one hundred piasters; and we agreed to pay a piaster and a half a day, if we did not depart within ten days; and also, if we tarried beyond three days at Sunium or Ægina, at which places we purposed to touch in our way. Our baggage and provisions were put on board on Tuesday, August 20, 1765. A gentle land-breeze, as usual, sprung up about midnight. We bade adieu to our friends the English consul and Mr. Lee, who accompanied us to our boat; which rowed to the Frank scale, or quay for Europeans. We were hailed by a Turkish officer of the customs, and immediately dismissed. We reached our bark, and weighed anchor. Our vessel carried two triangular sails, each on, a CHANDLER, GREECE. B 9 very long yard, thick at bottom, tapering upwards, like a bulrush, and fastened to the top of the mast, so as to be moveable every way, like a lever on a pole, such as is used for drawing water out of wells. In tacking, the big end, which is always the lower, with the rigging, is shifted over to the opposite side. The sharp end is very often high in the air apeak. In the morning the inbat met us, and we put for shelter into a small creek on the right hand, near the mouth of the gulf. The boys, climbing up the masts with bare feet, and holding by two ropes, bestrode the yards, and gathered in the canvass, furling it quite to the extremities. A Venetian ship, which had sailed from Smyrna some days before, and was lying at anchor within the bay, afforded us an instance of the slow progress, and consequently tedious voyages, for which that flag is noted and ridiculed in the Levant. Between the mountains near us, by the seaside, was a small green valley, in which were scattered a few mean houses. There the vintage was now begun; the black grapes being spread on the ground in beds, exposed to the sun to dry for raisins; while in another part the juice was expressed for wine, a man, with feet and legs bare, treading the fruit in a kind of cistern, with a hole or vent near the bottom, and a vessel beneath it to receive the liquor. When morning approached, the land-breeze recommenced. The boys mounted the yards, and, as they descended, untied the knots of the sails very expeditiously. Our captain knew every island, rock, and cape, steering from promontory to promontory. One of the sailors, his brother, fell overboard; but swimming, he was soon taken up. We came be tween Lesbos and Chios, passed by the north end of the latter, and, as Nestor did on his return from Troy, toward Psyra. This little island was reckoned forty stadia, or five miles, in circuita; and fifty stadia, or six miles and a quarter, from Melæna, a promontory of Chios. It lay opposite to the rugged tract called Arvisia, once famous for its nectar. The wind was northerly and strong, and it was apprehended would become contrary; being remarked to set commonly into the gulf of Thessalonica during the day, at this season; and to go back again, as it were, toward morning; in the same manner as the inbat and land-breeze prevail alternately in the gulf of Smyrna. We endeavoured to get under the lee of Psyra, and succeeding, we sailed by a chapel of St. George standing on a head-land, when the captain and crew made their crosses very devoutly. The same ceremony was repeated soon after at one of the Panagia, or Virgin Mary. We then opened the harbour of the town, and were desirous to put in, but the wind would not permit. The day had been cloudy, and distant flashes of pale lightning in the south, with screaming voices in the air, as was surmised, of some sea-bird flying to land, seemed to portend a blustering and disagreeable night. The captain, who was skilled in the previous signs of foul weather, prepared his bark by taking down the triangular mainsail, and hoisting à latin or square one, as more manageable. The wind increasing, and the sea running very high, our vessel laboured exceedingly. It was now total darkness, a Strabo, p. 645. Cellarius has confounded the two islands, and made the city Chios, instead of Psyra, to be forty stadia in circuit, p. 12. no moon or stars, but the sky expanding terribly on all sides with livid flames, disclosing the bright waves vehemently assailing, and every moment apparently swelling to overwhelm us. It thundered also, and rained heavily. The poop of our boat was covered, and would contain three persons lying along, or sitting. It was furnished with arms, and in a niche was a picture of the Panagia, of a saint, and of the crucifixion, on boards, with a lamp burning in a lantern. This seemed an eligible retreat from the noise and confusion on the open deck, where all hands were fully employed. The vessel shook, and heeled to and fro excessively; the violence of its motion shifting me from side to side several times, though I strove to preserve my position unaltered. The captain at intervals looked in, and invoked his deities to assuage the wind, and smooth the waves; or, prostrate on his belly, inspected the compass by the glimmering light of the lamp, and gave directions to the man at the helm. The tardy morning, as it were, mocked our impatience, while we continued beating the waves and tossing. At length it dawned, when we found we had been driven from our course; but the gale abated, leaving behind a very turbulent swell. The following day was consumed in standing to and fro between the island Andros, and a cape now called D'Oro, but anciently Caphareus, the southern promontory of Euboea toward the Hellespont; once noted for dangerous currents, and the destruction of the Grecian fleet on its return from Troy. Before midnight we gained a small port beyond it; where we found at daybreak a couple of goatherds, with their flocks, traces of a wall, and of a chapel of the |