about three quarters of an hour from the sea, where nearest, the track narrow and rough. The houses are mean, in number about four hundred, rising on the slope, with flat roofs and terraces of gravel. It is remarkably free from gnats and other troublesome insects. The wells afford good water, but the air is accounted unhealthy. On a summit above the town are some windmills, and cisterns or reservoirs, with the rubbish of a fortress erected by the Venetians in 1654. The houses, which in 1676 amounted to about fourscore, have been demolished, with the two churches; one of which was for the Latin or catholic Greeks, and had in it a monument of a Venetian governor, of marble. The Æginetans have a bishop, and so many churches, scattered over the island, that, as they affirm, the number equals the days in the year. We had this place in view at the temple of Jupiter, and afterwards I passed two days in it with a Greek of Athens, the governor; no Turk residing there. I then revisited the ruin, and was near an hour and a half riding to it, though in a straight line it is not far off. I was mounted on a low mule, with a guide on foot, the track rough and bad.

The soil of Ægina is, as described by Strabo, very stony, especially the bottoms, and naked, but in some places not unfertile in grain. Besides corn, it produces olives, grapes, and plenty of almonds. Perhaps no island abounds more in doves, pigeons, and partridges. Of the latter, which have red legs, we sprung several covies; and our caraboucheri, or captain, caught one with his hands. It has been related, that the Æginetans annually wage war with the feathered race, carefully collecting or breaking their

eggs, to prevent their multiplying, and in consequence a yearly famine. They have no hares, foxes, or wolves. The rivers in summer are all dry. The vaiwode, or governor, farmed the revenue of the

About half this

grand signior for twelve purses 9. sum was repaid yearly by the caratch-money, or poll-tax.

CHAP. V.

WE ARRIVE IN THE PIRÆUS-OF THE PORTS OF ATHENSPHALERUM AND MUNYCHIA-REMARK ON PHALERUMPIRÆUS-THE TOWN-THE LONG WALLS-OTHER FORTIFICATIONS THEIR STATE UNDER THE ROMANS-PRESENT STATE OF PHALERUM AND MUNYCHIA-OF THE PIRÆUS— INSCRIPTIONS.

THE vicinity of Ægina made Pericles style it the eyesore of the Piræus. It was distant only twenty miles. We sailed in the afternoon with a fair wind, and in the evening anchored in this renowned haven. We were hailed from the custom-house, and the captain went on shore. On his return, we had the satisfaction to hear that the plague had not reached Athens. We intrusted our recommendatory letters to a person departing for the city. Some Greeks, to whom the captain had notified his arrival, came on board early in the morning. The wine circulated briskly, and their meeting was celebrated, as usual among this lively people, with singing, fiddling, and dancing. We left them, and were landed by the custom-house, exceedingly struck with the solemn

A purse is 500 piasters.

silence and solitude of this once crowded emporium.

Athens had three ports near each other, the Piræus, Munychia, and Phalerum. Of these the Piræus is formed by a recess of the shore, which winds, and by a small rocky peninsula spreading toward the sea. A craggy brow, called Munychia, separates it from the Phalerian and Munychian ports, which indent the narrow isthmus, on the opposite or eastern side. It was an ancient tradition, that this whole peninsula had been an island, lying before the coast. The city was not more than twenty stadia, or two miles and a half, from the sea by Phalerum; but the distance is perhaps increased. From the port it was thirty-five stadia, or four miles a quarter and a half; and more from Munychia, which is beyond. From the Piræus it was forty stadia, or five miles, and, it is related, the city port was once as far.

Phalerum was said to have been named from Phalerus, a companion of Jason in the Argonautic expedition. Theseus sailed from it for Crete; and Menestheus, his successor, for Troy; and it continued to be the haven of Athens to the time of Themistocles. It is a small port, of a circular form, the entrance narrow, the bottom a clean fine sand, visible through the transparent water. The farm of Aristides and his monument, which was erected at the public expense, were by this port. Munychia is of a different form, or oval, and more considerable; the mouth also narrow.

The traveller accustomed to deep ports and bulky shipping may view Phalerum with some surprise '; if he does not recollect that it is almost choked up with sand.

R.