ported his body to that spot; that it was found by Sisyphus, king of Corinth; and that he interred it on the isthmus.

Some green samphire, which we gathered on the Scironian rocks, made part of our repast at noon, after which we slept in the shade. We embarked again, and coasted a flat shore, and in the evening landed about half a mile from a rivulet running into the sea with a shallow and lively current. There also were marble fragments, a deserted church, and among the thickets heaps of stones, as by Megara; relics of the town of Sidus, which was situated between Cromyon and the isthmus. This region also was once a portion of Ionia or Attica. After filling our water-casks we made a fire among the bushes, and lay down by it until the moon was set.

CHAP. XLV.

LAND ON THE ISTHMUS OF CORINTH-AT EPIDAURUS AND METHANA-ON THE ISLETS IN THE GULFAT ÆGINAON THE ISLAND OF SALAMIS.

WE now were near the isthmus of Corinth. Soon after daybreak we landed at the port of Schoenus, and ascended to some ruins. We met two or three goatherds, who conducted us to their station, and protected us from their dogs, which were most exceedingly fierce. They lamented, that wild beasts often assailed their fold, and rendered a strong guard necessary. They treated us with new cheese, curdled milk made sour, and with ordinary bread toasted on embers. They spared us some provisions for our boats, and we selected a fat kid from the flock feed

ing among the pine-trees and thickets. We saw several large lizards, or chameleons, of a vivid green colour. A low root of mount Oneius extends along the isthmus, and from the brow I had a view of the two gulfs, the Saronic and the Corinthian; the latter shining and placid, and seeming to promise a happy passage from desolation and barbarism. The port of Schoenus was three hundred and fifty stadia, or fortythree miles and three quarters, from the Piræus.

One of the goatherds assisted in flaying and roasting the kid by the sea-side. We retired, after eating, to our boats; and, an hour or two before daybreak, began fishing. We then set sail, and, leaving the port of Cenchreæ and Corinth on our right, coasted by a range of lofty mountains reaching into the water to Epidaurus, a city of the Peloponnesus, and from thence we crossed the bay to Methana.

We passed from Methana to the mountainous island Anchistre, on which are a few cottages of Albanians, who till the scanty soil. We touched likewise on several of the uninhabited rocks and islets in the gulf, as directed by the wind, rowing where the channel was narrow; often becalmed, or waiting for a smoother sea; and sometimes reduced to a smaller allowance of bread, wine, and water than was agreeable. We slept away the heat of noon in the shade, and were employed in rambling over our little territory, in searching the transparent waves along the shore for shellfish, or in spreading our nets during the absence of the moon. We discovered by the light of a cedar-torch a muræna, a fish said to copulate with serpents; resembling an eel, with bright yellow spots. It was in shallow water, and was killed by the Albanian, who attacked

it with a knife, but cautiously, fearing its bite, which is reputed venomous.

At length a brisk gale springing up wafted us to the island of Ægina, and increasing became very neavy, attended with rain. We had reason to rejoice on reaching the shore, though it afforded no hospitable cave or shelter from the weather. We made fast to some rocks in the lee, not far from the barrow of Phocus, and spreading our sails on poles, tent-wise, over our boats, remained there all night, wet and uncomfortable, tossed on the waves and incommoded with the smoke of our fires, especially while our fish were dressing. The next day, the gale abating, we sailed on, and, leaving our boats, ascended to the town of Ægina, where we tarried two days, the wind continuing strong and contrary,

A calm ensuing, we reembarked, intending for the island of Salamis, distant by computation twelve miles from Ægina. The sun was set, and we had rowed above half way, when we began to hear the hollow-sounding fury of the north-west wind, or Sciron, reigning afar off. The sea heaved, with the surface lightly dimpled. The swell increased gradually, and became very formidable to small open wherries; the tempest still raging remote from us. The moon shined bright, disclosing the headlands and promontories; the sky blue and starry. Our men struggled with all their might to get under the lee of the island of Salamis; fearing, if the gale overtook us, we should be forced out to sea; and, after great labour, succeeded, much to our satisfaction in general, and more particularly to that of the young Albanian, who was exceedingly terrified, making his

crosses, and calling fervently on the Panagia, or Virgin Mary, to deliver him from the danger he was in. We lighted a fire and supped on the shore, and afterwards lay down to sleep among the masticbushes. A heavy dew fell in the night.

CHAP. XLVI.

OF SALAMIS-ISLETS-FRAGMENTS ON CYNOSURA-TROPHY FOR THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS-THE CITY-VILLAGE OF ALBANIANS-OLD SALAMIS-THE FLOWER OF AJAX.

THE island Salamis is of a very irregular shape. It was reckoned seventy or eighty stadiaf long, reaching westward as far as the mountains called Kerata, or the Horns. The Athenians and Megarensians contended for it with obstinacy; and Solon or Pisistratus interpolated Homer to shew it had belonged to the Athenians, adding, in the catalogue of the ships, after "Ajax came from Salamis with twelve 66 vessels," that he stationed them with the Athenian squadron. The city was within Cynosura, or the Dog's Tail, on the opposite side of the bay.

1

In the morning we coasted, and, passing by a church on the shore of Salamis, dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron of fishermen, came to Cynosura. We touched on Lipsocatalia, a rocky and barren islet, anciently called Psyttalia. It was supposed to be frequented by the god Pan. There was no image of him formed with art, but only rude representations. Near Psyttalia was an islet named Atalante; and toward the Piræus, another, alike rocky and barren.

Eight miles and three quarters, or ten miles.

I landed on Cynosura, and examined some remains, consisting of a few stones with a fragment or two of white marble, while the wherries doubled the cape. We then crossed over to the opposite coast of the bay, where are vestiges of the city.

In Salamis, says Pausanias, on this side is a temple of Diana, and on that has stood a trophy for the victory obtained by Themistocles, and there is the temple of Cychreus. The trophy was probably a column adorned with arms, which had been thrown down before his time. The remnants on Cynosura, it has been supposed, belonged to this monument; and the defeat of the Barbarians, as those enemies of Greece were styled, may have given rise to the name Punto Barbaro, by which the cape is now distinguished. The church of St. Nicholas perhaps occupies the site of the temple of Cychreus. A serpent, which was seen in the Athenian ships while engaging the Medes, was believed, on the authority of Apollo, to have been this hero.

The city of Salamis was demolished by the Athenians, because in the war with Cassander it surrendered to the Macedonians, from disaffection. In the second century, when it was visited by Pausanias, some ruins of the agora, or market-place, remained, with a temple and image of Ajax; and not far from the port was shewn a stone, on which, they related, Telamon sate to view the Salaminian ships on their departure to join the Grecian fleet at Aulis. The walls may still be traced, and, it has been conjectured, were about four miles in circumference. The level space within them was now covered with green corn. The port is choked with mud, and was partly dry. Among the scattered marbles are some with