CHAP. LXXIV.

SET OUT FOR OLYMPIA-ARRANGEMENT OF THE COAST

AT A MONASTERY-THE NIGHT—A TREE-FROG—AT PYRGO-PITCH OUR TENT BY A RUIN-GNATS.

WE had been visited in the garden at Gastouni by a Turkish aga called Mulah, or the virtuoso Solyman, a person of some knowledge, uncommonly polite, and of a graceful deportment. He informed us, that he had seen ruins by Miraca, near the Rophia, a very large river. The site and distance agreeing with Olympia, it was hoped that spot would prove more important than Palæopolis. We left Callivia in the evening, and passing by some barrows, which probably were not far from the gate next Olympia, and afterwards by one in the plain, travelled with Gastouni behind us toward the sea.

The arrangement of the coast to the south of Cyllene was as follows. After the mouth of the Peneus was Chelonatas, the most westerly promontory of the Peloponnesus, distant two miles from Cyllene; near which was a mountainous point called Hormina, or Hyrmina. Next was point Pheia, with an inconsiderable river of the same name near it; and before it an islet; and a port, distant one hundred and twenty stadia, or fifteen miles, from Olympia, going the nearest way from the sea. A cape succeeded, called Icthys, extending far out westward. This was one hundred and twenty stadia from the island Cephallenia, which was eighty stadia, or ten miles, from Cyllene. After Icthys was the mouth of the river Alpheus, distant two hundred and eighty stadia, or thirty miles, from Chelonatas, with a temple near it and a grove of Diana, eighty

stadia, or ten miles, from Olympia. The whole region abounded in places sacred to Venus and to Diana; and, being well watered, in caves of the Nymphs. By the roads were frequent statues of Mercury; and on the capes, of Neptune. The islands called Strophades were thirty-five miles from Zante.

We came to the sea-side below Chelonatas, and travelled southward to a monastery of the Panagia Scaphidia, or Virgin of the Skiffs, situated on an eminence not far from point Pheia, on the north; the beach so insecure, that it is customary to load the boats on shore, and then push them into the water. Near it is a lake fed by a small stream, probably the stagnant water mentioned by Pausanias, measuring about three stadia, on the road from Olympia to Elis by the plain. The supper-bell rung as we approached. We rode into the court, and saw the priests and monks seated at their respective tables, or in companies on the ground. We dismounted, wondering that nobody stirred, or took any notice of us. We were informed afterwards, that they had mistaken us for Frenchmen, and that their usual courtesy had been withheld from national prejudices. The society was in a flourishing state, and had partly completed their design of rebuilding the monastery.

We were conducted to a good apartment, in which we supped. Afterwards some preferred sleeping in the court, hoping to find the air cooler, and to be less molested by vermin; but innumerable gnats, which arise from the lake, disturbed us with their continual buzzing, and preyed on us exceedingly. The poultry, which roosted close by in a

mulberry-tree, at dawn of day fluttered down from the branches in long succession; and at our next stage we discovered that myriads of large fleas had taken possession of the folds of our garments.

In the morning we made our early repast, as usual, on fruit, bread, and coffee. We were ready to depart, when one of my companions found a treefrog in the garden. The back so exactly resembled in colour the green leaf of a lemon-tree, on which it was sitting, that the reptile was not easily to be distinguished, except by its lively eyes. It was small, and in shape like a toad; the belly of an ugly pale, speckled, the hinder legs long. The toes, which are clammy, enable it to raise or let down its body, as it occasionally does, sometimes hanging by one foot, and to travel without danger over the bending foliage. It was unwieldy and inactive. On our shaking the bough to put it in motion, it fell to the ground, tired perhaps with a former exertion; and lay as dead. Its chirping or silence are said to be among the prognostics of changes in the weather. The Greeks call it Spordaca. The species is mentioned by Pliny.

In two hours we came to a village named Pyrgo, from a house in it with a tower. Upon a mount on the right hand was a castle called Katacoli, near which vessels of burden are laden; at the port, it is likely, mentioned as fifteen miles from Olympia. The whole plain from Elis affords but scanty shade. Sheds, covered with boughs, are the shelter of the cattle at noon. The peasants were busy at their harvest-work. The wheat-sheaves were collected about the floors; and horses, running abreast round a stake, were treading out the grain. The

habitations were very mean, chiefly low mud-built huts, many of an oval form, with a fence before them. We tarried at Pyrgo in a garden, while our men procured bread and other necessaries, it being expected that our next conac, or resting-place, would be destitute of every thing.

When the heat of noon was over, we crossed a hilly country, and had frequent views of the Rophia, or Alpheus, at a distance. This portion of the road to Olympia was called the mountainous, to distinguish it from that nearer Elis, which was in the plain. The track by the bank of the river was deepworn in a ridge of the mountain. From it we turned to the left up a valley, which there becomes more contracted; and in about four hours were near a ruin. The sun was set, and we pitched our tent in a field which had been sown with corn.

Here gnats swarmed around us innumerable, infesting us, if possible, more terribly than ever before k. We endeavoured to sleep, in vain. Our Greeks too called on their Panagia, but were not relieved. It is related, Jupiter on a like petition from Hercules, whom they molested while sacrificing at Olympia, drove them all beyond the river; from which exploit he acquired the title of Apomuius, or the fly-expeller: and the Eleans, at the season of the games, invoked him, sacrificing a bull; when, it is said, the gnats all perished; or, which is recorded as extra

i near a ruin] near a ruin of a temple with other remains of buildings. The aspect of this temple was the Peripteros, and the order Doric. This temple is upon the Alpheus in the territory of Elis, and probably that of Jupiter Apomaius. See p. 359. R.

And here the accident happened that set fire to our tent in three or four places. See Travels in Asia Minor, p. 209. R.

ordinary, no insect being less docile and intelligent, retired in clouds out of the Olympic territory.

CHAP. LXXV.

OF PISA OF OLYMPIA OF THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER-THE STATUE-THE GREAT ALTAR-OTHER ALTARS-RICHES OF

OLYMPIA-SOLEMNITY OF THE GAMES-HERODES A BENEFACTOR-RUIN OF OLYMPIA.

OLYMPIA was in a region named Pisatis, from a city which had been subdued by the Eleans. The site of Pisa was on an eminence between two mountains called Ossa and Olympus; but in the time of Pausanias no wall or building remained, and it was planted with vines. This place had been rendered excessively illustrious by the power and reputation of its ancient princes, among whom were Enomaus and Pelops; by the oracle and temple of the Olympian Jupiter; by the celebrity of the grand panegyris, or general assembly, held at it; and by the renown of the agon, or games, in which to be victorious was deemed the very summit of human felicity.

The glory of Olympia was not diminished by the ruin of Pisa. The Altis, or sacred grove, was surrounded with a wall. Within was the temple of Jupiter; and also a temple of Juno, sixty-three feet long, with columns round it, of the Doric order; and a metroum, or temple of the mother of the gods, a large Doric edifice; with holy treasuries, as at Delphi. These, and the porticoes, a gymnasium, prytaneum, and many more buildings, chiefly in the enclosure, with the houses of the priests and other inhabitants,