and water, of the above receipt, by champagne; no doubt it is good, but it is also very expensive.

271. Fambon au vin (Ham with Wine).

Cut some thin slices of raw ham and put them in a frying-pan, with a little butter, over a quick fire. Sprinkle a little pounded sugar upon the slices, and let them take colour on both sides. Take them out of the pan immediately, for they would become tough, and pour two wine-glasses of red Bordeaux or Burgundy wine into the pan. Let it boil quickly for two minutes, and pour it upon the slices of ham.

272. Fambon rôti (Roasted Ham). See Épaule de Porc, No. 268, page 105.

273. Oreilles de porc (Ears).

They must be put into boiling water and well scraped; then washed in cold water, and carefully wiped.

When cleaned, put them in a pot with four cloves, two onions, two carrots, a little garlic; a bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley tied together. Cover them with cold water, and let them boil until they are tender, and serve with a tomato-sauce (No. 56, page 29), or a sauce piquante (No. 54, page 29).

274 Oreilles frites (Fried Ears).

When cleaned and boiled as above, let them cool; dip them in a pâte à frire (see Index), and fry them

in hot lard, then serve with a tomato-sauce (No. 56, page 29), or a sauce robert (No. 44, page 25).

275. Rognons (Kidneys).

See Rognon de Veau, No. 321, page 128.

If the pig is old it is better not to use the kidneys, as they generally contract a very bad taste.

276. Pieds de porc sur le gril (Broiled Feet).

When cleaned and boiled, like ears (see No. 273, page 107), let them cool. When half cold, open them by the middle, remove the small hairy balls, and powder the feet well all over with bread-crumbs. Put them on the gridiron over a moderate fire, and when done, serve with a tomato-sauce (No. 56, page 29), or with a sauce piquante (No. 54, page 29).

277. Pieds de porc farcis (Another way).

Proceed as above. When the feet are half cold, remove all the bones, and chop the flesh with a little parsley and a few truffles, salt and pepper, and incorporate with it a table-spoonful of bread-crumbs; then give it an oblong shape, and cover it all over with a piece of caul, and rub it well with bread-crumbs, and broil for a quarter of an hour over a moderate fire. You may use sausage-meat instead of truffles; it will be plainer, but still very good.

278. Queues de porc (Tail).

Proceed as for oreilles de porc (Nos. 273, 274, age 107).

279. Saucisses (Sausages).

Put some lard or butter in a frying-pan over a quick fire. When it is very hot put the sausages in it, and turn them frequently about. When done, pour half a tumbler of water upon them, and let them boil for five minutes longer.

280. Saucisses aux pommes (Sausages with Apples).

Cut some apples in thin slices and put them in a frying-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and the sausages. Move the whole about frequently with a wooden spoon; add a wine-glass of water; mix it well with the apples. When sufficiently done, serve the sausages on the top of the apples.

281. Boudin (Black Pudding).

Prick it in several places with a fork to prevent it from bursting, and broil it over a moderate fire,

CHAPTER XIV.

VIANDE DE BOUCHERIE (BUTCHER'S MEAT).

Bœuf (Beef).

Ox beef is the best. It ought to be of a bright red colour, with streaks of white fat; if it is pale, it comes from a cow; if it is rough, of a dark red with yellow fat it comes from a bull, and is sure to be tough.

It is quite necessary to know which are the pieces best adapted for the different ways of cooking them ; no doubt several pieces may be stewed, roasted, or boiled indifferently, but it is also a fact that some of them will be much better cooked in a particular way, than if they were cooked otherwise.

The best pieces for roasting are the fillet and ribs ; for soup use the neck, tail, the top of the ribs, and all the inferior parts, and the rest for stewing.

282. Bouilli en boulettes.

If any meat remains after boiling it for a soup, chop it with a shalot and some parsley; put the whole in a basin, add to it salt, pepper, two eggs, and four potatoes previously steamed and pounded in a mortar. Mix the whole perfectly; then take a small quantity

of it in your hand and give it the shape of a ball about as large as a small apple. Roll it in flour. Do the same until no meat remains, then fry the boulettes in hot lard and drain them in a sieve.

Be careful to rub the inside of your hands with flour, to prevent the boulettes from sticking.

283. Gâteau de viande (Meat Cake).

If you have to employ the remains of a roast, or any boiled meat, chop it with a shalot and some parsley, and mix with it eight eggs and six ounces of sausage-meat; salt and pepper. Put six ounces of butter or lard into a pan over a quick fire. When very hot, pour the meat and eggs into it and let it harden at the bottom, so as to form a crust. When the crust is formed, which you ascertain by driving a fork through the meat to the bottom of the pan, cover the fire, and put some red charcoal on the top of the pan. Let the cake simmer for half an hour, then put a round deep dish on the top of the pan, which you turn quickly topsy-turvy. The meat-cake will then be in the dish with a nice crust on the top.

This cake is easily made, only the pan in which it is cooked is to be larger at the top than it is at the bottom, to allow the cake to come out without difficulty.

If the cake seems to stick to the pan, make an incision in the crust, and put a little butter into it.

284. Aloyau rôti (Roast Beef).

Use the ribs and fillet, and cut off the top part of the