crumbs and chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and, as soon as the fat begins to melt, sprinkle the parsley and bread-crumbs all over the surface of the roast. When it is done (it takes an hour), add a tablespoonful of vinegar to the gravy, and some capers, if you like the taste.

The roast should be very crisp.

The remains of a roast of lamb may be used in a blanquette (see Blanquette de veau, No. 302, page 120), but half an hour's boiling will be sufficient.

368. Carré d'agneau à la bourgeoise.

Have ready a breast of lamb; put it in a pan with four ounces of veal, and four ounces of raw ham cut in dice; salt and pepper. Let the whole take colour, and pour into the pan half a tumbler of hot water and as much white Burgundy or Bordeaux wine. Let the lamb boil slowly for an hour; add a handful of mushrooms, two or three truffles, if you have any, and some parsley and chives chopped together. Let the whole boil for another half-hour, then squeeze into the pan the juice of a lemon, and serve.

369. Épaule d'agneau à la Provençale (Shoulder).

Take the bones out of a shoulder of lamb and put it in a pan with two table-spoonfuls of olive-oil; let it take colour; pour upon it a tumbler of broth or water; salt and pepper. Add the bones, a large onion, two cloves of garlic, a little thyme, a bay-leaf and parsley tied together. Cover the pan and let the shoulder boil

slowly for an hour and a half. Take the bones, parsley, bay-leaf, thyme, garlic, and onion out of the pan; put in their stead a pound of stoned olives, and let them boil for five minutes in the sauce. Remove the oil from the surface of the gravy, and serve.

370. Épaule d'agneau en daube.

Take the bones out of a shoulder of lamb, lard it, and fasten it up. Put it over a sharp fire with four ounces of butter, and let it take colour on all sides. Take it out of the pan and put in its stead twelve large onions, which you toss over the fire until they are of a light brown; then sprinkle upon them a tablespoonful of flour and toss again. Pour into the pan a tumbler of boiling water; add the shoulder, the bones, some salt and pepper, a small bay-leaf, thyme and parsley tied together, and twenty small carrots. Reduce the fire and put some charcoal on the top of the pan, and let the whole boil slowly for two hours. Then remove the bones, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme out of the pan, and serve.

371. Croquettes d'agneau.

Have ready some consommé (see Consommé, No. 3, page 10) in which a calf's foot was boiled; if you have none, cut a calf's foot in dice and put it in a quart of broth, which you set on a quick fire to make it boil very fast. Do not cover the pan, but let the broth evaporate as fast as possible. When it is as thick as rich gravy keep it warm but do not let it boil any longer. Put in a pan four ounces of butter and two

table-spoonfuls of flour; move the flour about with a wooden spoon and do not let it take colour; when it is well mixed pour upon it half a tumbler of water and the broth through a fine sieve, a handful of mushrooms cut in slices, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and a pound of roasted lamb cut in dice. Let the whole boil together for five minutes, then pour it upon a dish and let it cool. When half done, take a small portion of it and roll it in your hands to give it the shape of an egg, and dip it in bread-crumbs. Do the same for all the contents of the dish; then beat four eggs together; dip your prepared croquettes into the beaten eggs, one after another, and roll them again in bread-crumbs. Fry them in hot olive-oil or lard.

This delicate dish is very easy to prepare if you take care to have the broth thick enough, that is the important point; for if it is not thick enough to hold the different ingredients together, it is impossible to proceed.

This dish is not much known, and may be served at a dîner de cérémonie.

372. Côtelettes, pieds, tête d'agneau (Cutlets, and Lamb's Feet).

Cook them in the way given for cutlets, and sheep's feet (see Nos. 355, 356, 357, 364, 365, 366).

373. Chevreau (Kid).

See all the recipes given for lamb.

CHAPTER XV.

LÉGUMES (VEGETABLES).

WE are accustomed in France to attach great importance to vegetables in our cooking; and we have several ways of preparing them to be eaten separately. They form quite a separate part in a dinner, not being served with the roast, but generally afterwards. In private, vegetables are brought on the table at the same time with the roast, but eaten separately, as having a different sauce of their own. The French are not fond of eating (as I have seen an English gentleman do at my own table) sweetened potatoes with a rôti mariné, and declaring that it is a delicacy.

It seems, at first, that we are very extravagant, both in spending so much time and ingredients for cooking vegetables, which are very good when plainly boiled; but a deeper examination of the subject will bring to the conclusion that vegetables cooked in the French manner are much more nourishing than if they were only boiled, and that they may replace agreeably, and even economically, one or two dishes of meat.

374. Pommes de terre en robe de chambre (Potatoes). Choose them large, round, yellow, and with a rough skin; these are generally the signs of a good mealy kind. Steam them, and serve them like boiled eggs, in the middle of a folded napkin, to keep them warm. Do not peel them, but put before each guest two plates-one for the potatoes, and the other for the skins. Be careful to have some very fresh butter, for each person takes a little of it to eat with his potatoes.

375. Pommes de terre à la maître d'hotel.

Choose the long red kind, and steam thein as above. Peel them, and let them cool; cut them in slices, and put them in a pan over a moderate fire, with six ounces of butter, some salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon (or a table-spoonful of vinegar), and some parsley and chives finely chopped. Toss over a moderate fire for five minutes, and serve.

376. Pommes de terre à la poulette.

Choose the long red kind; steam and peel them, and let them cool. When nearly cold cut them in slices. Put in a pan four ounces of butter and two table-spoonfuls of flour; move the flour about with a wooden spoon; pour upon it a gill of milk; salt and pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. When this sauce begins to boil, put the potatoes into it, and let. them boil slowly for a quarter of an hour; then remove the pan from the fire. Mix two yolks of eggs