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ing to kalf that distanc used in hanging the do coping. Fig. 607, No.

To make a rule

ing flap.

Fig. 606, No. 1. L^ gles to the flap, shutt the hinge, and the pi a radius, cb, descri. The knuckle of the hi it is inserted, the mo right angle, as in F placed the least with space, which would },

To form the jos knuckle of the i rebate.

Fig. 608. Let e be side, c b the depth of perpendicular to in bisect il at k, join through the points! be the true joint. Fig. 609 repres the hinge being l the sash-frame. is let into the sl made thinner.

It may here hinge must b ter, or beyou

How to c Fig. 614. perpendicu hinge, with the joint r Anoth meeting sect a c the hig

Figs &c. readi

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No. 1. A Back.-B Flush skirting, separated from the back by flush reeds, and showing the same depth of plinth as the blocks of the pilasters.-C C Blocks or plinths to pilasters.-D D Pilasters.-E E Patteras. -a a a a Inside bead of sash-frame.-b b b rounded edge of boxing-stile. No. 2. Plan of sash-frame, shutters, pilasters, and the different parts are explained in the figures.

No. 3. a thickness of the pilaster or architrave; b the rounded edge of the boxing-stile; c the breadth of the shutter; d bead of the sash-frame; e under sash; f top ditto; g parting bead; h outside lining and bead. i the breadth of the reveal or outer brick-work; k k lintels made of strong yellow deal or oak; the head of the ground; m the architrave or pilaster fixed upon the grounds; n the soffit, tongued into the top of the sashframe-head; and, on the other edge, into the head of the architrave m ; o the sash-frame head; p the elbow; q capping; sash-frame cill; s sashcill; t stone-cill.

The face of the pulley-stile of every sash-frame ought to project about three-eighths of an inch beyond the edge of the brick-work; that is, the distance between the face of each pulley-stile ought to be less by three quarters of an inch than in the clear of the reveals on the outside; so that the face of the shutters ought to be in the same plane with the stone or brick-work on the outside.

Fig. 616 shows a plan of a sash-frame and shutter on the same principle as the foregoing, and which may be applied to a similar window.

As the thickness of the wall is here conceived to be less than in the foregoing example, another back-flap is introduced:-a the outside lining; b the pulley-stile; c the inside lining; d the back lining; e f the weights; g parting slip of weights; h parting bead to sashes; inside bead; k back lining of boxing; ground, or boxing-stile, grooved to receive the plastering; m front shutter hung to the inside lining, c, of the sashframe by the hinge n; o p back flaps hinged together at q, and to the shutter at r; s architrave or pilaster.

Fig. 617. Is a vertical section of the cill, &c. of the same sash-frame; a bottom rail of sash; b cill of the sash-frame; c back of recess of window; d coping bead, or capping let into the sash-frame cill; e inside bead, tongued on the top of the cill; h outside lining ; ƒ space for the topsash to run in; g parting bead.

STAIRS.

This is one of the most important subjects connected with a joiner's art, and should be attentively considered, not only with regard to the situation, but as to the design and execution. The convenience of the building depends on the situation; and the elegance, on the design and execution of the workmanship. In contriving a grand edifice, particular attention must be paid to the situation of the space occupied by the stairs, so as to give them the most easy command of the rooms.

With regard to the lighting of a good staircase, a skylight, or rather lantern, is the most appropriate; for these

unite elegance with utility, that is, admit a powerful light, with elegance in the design; indeed, where the staircase does not adjoin the exterior walls, this is the only light that can be admitted. Where the height of a story is considerable, resting places are necessary, which go under the name of quarter-paces, and half-paces, according as the passenger has to pass one or two right-angles; that is, as he has to describe a quadrant or semi-circle. In very high stories, which admit of sufficient head-room, and where the space allowed for the staircase is confined, the staircase may have two revolutions in the height of one story, which will lessen the height of the steps; but in grand staircases only one revolution can be admitted, the length and breadth of the space on the plan being always proportioned to the height of the building, so as to admit of fixed proportions.

The breadth of the steps ought never to be more than 15 inches, or less than nine; the height not more than seven, or less than five: there are cases, however, which are exceptions to all rule. When the height of the story is given in feet, and the height of the step in inches, you may throw the feet into inches, and divide it by the number of inches the step is high, and the quotient will give the number of steps.

It is a general maxim, that the greater breadth of a step requires less height than one of less breadth: thus, a step of 12 inches in breadth will require a rise of 51⁄2 inches, which may be taken as a standard, to regulate those of other dimensions.

Though it is desirable to have some criterion as a guide in the arrangement of a design, yet workmen will, of course, vary them as circumstances may require. Stairs are constructed variously, according to the situation and destination of the building.

Geometrical stairs are those which are supported by having one end fixed in the wall, and every step in the ascent having an auxiliary support from that immediately below it, and the lowest step from the floor.

Bracket-stairs are those which have an opening or well, with strings and newels, and are supported by landings and carriages; the brackets are mitred to the ends of each riser, and are fixed to the string-board, which is moulded below like an architrave.

Dog-legged stairs are those which have no opening, or well-hole, and have the rail and balusters of both the progressive and returning flights falling in the same vertical

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planes, the steps being fixed to strings, newels, and carriages, and the ends of the steps of the inferior kind terminating only upon the side of the string, without any housing. In taking dimensions and laying down the plan and section of stair-cases, take a rod, and, having ascertained the number of steps, mark the height of the story, by standing the rod on the lower floor: divide the rod into as many equal parts as there are to be risers, then, if you have a level surface to work upon below the stair, try each of the risers as you go on, and this will prevent any excess or defect; for any error, however small, when multiplied, becomes of considerable magnitude, and even the difference of an inch in the last riser, will not only have a bad effect to the eye, but will be apt to confuse persons not thinking of any such irregularity. In order to try the steps properly by the story rod, if you have not a level surface to work from, the better way will be, to lay two rods on boards, and level their top surface to that of the floor: place one of these rods a little within the string, and the other near or close to the wall, so as to be at right angles to the starting line of the first riser, or, which is the same thing, parallel to the plan of the string; set off the breadth of the steps upon these rods, and number the risers; you may set not only the breadth of the flyers, but that of the winders also. In order to try the story-rod exactly to its vertical situation, mark the same distances of the risers upon the top edges, as the distances of the plan of string-board, and the rods are from each other.

In bracket-stairs, as the internal angle of the steps is open to the end, and not closed by the string as in common doglegged stairs, and the neatness of workmanship is as much regarded as in geometrical stairs, the balusters must be neatly dove-tailed into the ends of the steps, two in every step. The face of each front baluster must be in a straight surface with the face of the riser, and, as all the balusters must be equally divided, the face of the middle baluster must stand in the middle of the face of the riser of the preceding step and succeeding one. The risers and heads are all previously blocked and glued together, and when put up, the under side of the step nailed or screwed into the under edge of the riser, and then rough brackets to the rough strings, as in dog-legged stairs, the pitching pieces and rough strings being similar. In glueing up the steps, the best method is to make a templet, so as to fit the external angle of the steps with the nosing.

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