the latitude of 64° 55'. The bay, in which we were now at anchor, lies on the S.E. side of it; and is called by the na tives Chacktoole. It is but an indifferent station, being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a harbour in all this Sound. But we were so fortunate as to have the wind from the N. and N.E. all the time, with remarkable fine weather. This gave us an opportunity to make no less than seventy-seven sets of lunar observations between the 6th and 7th inclusive. The mean result of these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side of the Sound, to be 197° 13'

Latitude

Of the tides, it was observed, that the night-flood rose about two or three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable.

Having now fully satisfied myself, that Mr Stehlin's map must be erroneous; and having restored the American continent to that space which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was high time to think of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for my people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulow ska, or the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschal. ka, did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the other for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time. The first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I had to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would have been the necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts. No place was so conveniently within our reach, where we could expect to have our wants relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, I determined to proceed. But, before this could be carried into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With this view I resolved to search the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding along it to the southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey of this part of it with that lying immediately to the north of Cape Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there, my plan was then to pro

ceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon as our place of rendezvous, in case of separation.

SECTION XI.

Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound.—Stuart's Island. Cape Stephens.-Point Shallow-Water.-Shoals on the American Coast.—Clerke's Island.—Gore's Island.—Pinnacle Island.-Arrival at Oonalashka -Intercourse with the Natives and Russian Traders.-Charts of the Russian Discoveries, communicated by Mr Ismyloff.-Their Errors pointed out.-Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians.-Account of their Settlement at Oonalashka.-Of the Natives of the Island.-Their Persons.-Dress.-Ornaments.-Food.—Houses and domestic Utensils.—Manufactures.-Manner of producing Fire.-Canoes.- Fishing and Hunting Implements.-Fishes, and Sea Animals.-Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.-Land Animals and Vegetables.- Manner of burying the Dead.- Resemblance of the Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Esquimaux.-Tides.-Observations for determining the Longitude of Oonalashka.

HAVING weighed, on the 17th in the morning, with a light breeze at east, we steered to the southward, and attempted to pass within Besborough Island; but though it lies six or seven miles from the continent, were prevented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but little wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and the night was spent under an easy sail.

We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along the coast. At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the latitude was 63° 37'. Besborough Island now bore N., 42° E.; the southernmost land in sight, which proved also to be an island, S., 66° W.; the passage between it and the main S., 40° W.; and the nearest land about two miles distant. I continued to steer for this passage, until the boats, which were ahead, made the signal for having no more than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the island; and made the signal for the Resolution's boat to keep between the ships and the shore.

VOL. XVI.

2 A

This

This island, which obtained the name of Stuart's Island, lies in the latitude of 63° 35', and seventeen leagues from Cape Denbigh, in the direction of S., 27° W. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some parts of it are of a middling height; but, in general, it is low; with some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is, for the most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. It forms a point, opposite the island, which was named Cape Stephens, and lies in latitude 63° 33′, and in longitude 197° 41'. Some drift wood was seen upon the shores, both of the island and of the continent; but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might anchor, upon occasion, between the N.E. side of this island and the continent, in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerly, southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wholly exposed to the northerly winds, the land, in that direction, being at too great distance to afford any security. Before we reached Stuart's Island, we passed two small islands, lying between us and the main; and as we ranged / along the coast, several people appeared upon the shore, and, by signs, seemed to invite us to approach them.

As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W., for the southernmost point of the continent in sight, till eight o'clock in the evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less than four, I tacked, and stood to the northward, into five fathoms, and then spent the night plying off and on. At the time we tacked, the southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was named Point Shallow-Water, bore S. E., seven leagues distant.

We resumed our course to the southward at day-break next morning, but shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length, we got so far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a N.N.W. course, meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at E.N.E. it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast, upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deepened the water to eight fathoms. At the same time we hauled the wind, we were at least twelve leagues from the continent, and nine to the westward of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point Shallow-Water, which I judge to

lie

lie in the latitude of 63°. So that, between this latitude and Shoal Ness, in latitude 60°, the coast is entirely unexplored. Probably, it is accessible only to boats, or very small vessels'; or at least, if there be channels for large vessels, it would require some time to find them; and I am of opinion, that they must be looked for near the coast. From the mast-head, the sea within us appeared to be chequered with shoals; the water was very much discoloured and muddy, and considerably fresher than at any of the places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, that a considerable river runs into the sea in this unknown part.*

As soon as we got into eight fathoms water, I steered to the westward, and afterward more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, which, at noon the next day, bore S.W. by W., ten or eleven leagues distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at north, with showers of hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea; so that we got clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named it Clerke's Island. It lies in the latitude of 63° 15′, and in the longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to be a pretty large island, in which are four or more hills, all connected by low ground; so that, at a distance, it looks like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a small island, remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not only the greater island, but this small spot, was inhabited.*

We got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about six o'clock, and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought-to during the night. At day-break, next morning, we stood in again for the coast, and continued to range along it in search of a harbour till noon; when, seeing no likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered S.S.W. for the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July, ha

Mr Arrowsmith has filled up the coast betwixt the two points now mentioned, and supplied it also with rivers, according to the conjecture of Captain Cook. But it is obvious, that this is not sufficient authority; and therefore, unless better be given, Mr Coxe seems to have done more correctly, in indicating the space by a dotted line, the usual mark of an unexplored region.-E.

2 It is somewhat singular, that neither Arrowsmith nor Coxe mentions Anderson's Island. The former, on additional authority, has marked but one island in the position specified, under the name of Eivoogiena, or Clerke's Island.-E.

ving a fresh gale at north, with showers of sleet and snow. I remarked, that as soon as we opened the channel which separates the two continents, cloudy weather, with snow showers, immediately commenced; whereas, all the time we were in Norton Sound, we had, with the same wind, clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by the mountains to the north of that place attracting the vapours, and hindering them to proceed any farther?

At day-break, in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned appeared in sight, bearing S.W., six or seven leagues distant. From this point of view it resembled a group of islands; but it proved to be but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N.W. and S.E.; the S. E. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The island is but narrow; especially at the low necks of land that connect the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly unknown to the Russians; and therefore, considering it as a discovery of our own, I named it Gore's Island. It ap peared to be barren, and without inhabitants; at least we saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about it as when we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters; an animal which we had not met with to the northward of this latitude. Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of S., 72° W., lies a small island, whose elevated summit terminates in several pinnacled rocks. On this account it was named Pinnacle Island. At two in the afternoon, after passing Cape Upright, I steered S.E. by S., for Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at N.N.W., being resolved to spend no more time in searching for a harbour amongst islands, which I now began to suspect had no existence; at least not in the latitude and longitude where modern map-makers have thought proper to place them. In the evening of the 24th, the wind veered to S.W. and S., and increased to a fresh gale.

We continued to stretch to the eastward, till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 191* 10, we tacked and stood to the west; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were reduced to two courses, and closereefed main top-sails. Not long after, the Resolution sprung a leak,

3 Mr Arrowsmith, as in the case of the island mentioned in the last note, has given the native name to this island, viz. Matwi, retaining also however, the name of Gore.-E.