In

wherein we be like to the polypus or chameleon. woman, also, it is much to be lamented that they do now far exceed the lightness of our men (who, nevertheless, are transformed from the cap even to the very shoe), and such staring attire as in time past was supposed meet for none but light housewifes only, is now become an habit for chaste and sober matrons. What should I say of their doublets, full of jags and cuts, and sleeves of sundry colours? Their galligascons to make their attire sit plum round (as they term it) about them-their fardingales, and diversely-coloured nether stockes of silk, and such like, whereby their bodies are rather deformed than commended. I have met with some of these in London so disguised that it hath passed my skill to discover whether they were men or women. Certes, the common wealth cannot be said to flourish when these abuses reign, but is rather oppressed by unreasonable exactions made upon rich farmers and poor tenants, wherewith to maintain the same. Neither was it ever merrier with England than when an Englishman was known abroad by his own cloth, and contented himself at home with his fine carsie hosen and a warm slop, his coat, gown, and cloak, of brown, blue, or putre, with some pretty furniture of velvet or fur, and a doublet of sad tawnie or black velvet, or other comely silk, without such cuts and gawrish colours as are worn in these days, and were brought in by the consent of the French, who think themselves the gayest men when they have most diversities of iagges and change of colours about them. Certes, of all estates our merchants do least alter their attire, and, therefore, are

most to be commended; for, albeit that which they wear be very fine and costly, yet in form and colour it representeth a great piece of the antient gravity appertaining to the citizens and burgesses. Albeit the younger sort of their wives, both in attire and costly housekeeping, cannot tell when and how to make an end, as being women, indeed, in whom all kinds of curiosity is to be found and seen, and in far greater measure than in women of higher calling."

Stubbs tells us that the doublets were so hardquilted, stuffed, bombasted, and sewed, that men could neither work nor yet play in them.

THE TOILETTE IN ENGLAND.

CHAPTER VII.

It was during Elizabeth's reign that Sir Thomas Gresham introduced the manufacture of pins and ribands. Knitted worsted stockings, too, were first made about the year 1565, by a London apprentice, named William Ryder, who having seen some that came from Italy, imitated a pair exactly, and presented them to William, earl of Pembroke.

In Stowe's "Chronicle" we find the following: "In the 2d yeere of Queene Elizabeth, her silk-woman, Mistress Montagu, presented her Majestie, for a new yeare's gift, a pair of black silk knit stockings, the which, after a few day's wearing, pleased her highness so well, that she sent for Mistress Montagu, and asked her where she had them, and if she could help her to any more; who answering, said, I made them very carefully of purpose only for your Majestie, and seeing them please you so well, I will presently set more in hand.' 'Do so (quoth the queene), for indeed I like silk stockings so well, because they are pleasant, fine, and delicate, that henceforth I will wear no more

cloth stockings.' And from that time unto her death the queene never wore any more cloth hose, but only silk stockings; for you shall understand that Henry the 8th did wear only cloth hose, or hose cut out of ell-broad taffaty, or that by great chance there came a paire of Spanish silk stockings from Spain."

From this extract it appears that silk stockings were now first made in England, and not first imported, as is generally supposed.

"At this day," says Stowe, "men of meane rank weare garters, and shoe roses of more than five pounds price." Stevens also observes, that very rich garters were worn below the knee. And Shakspeare, in "Hamlet," says, "Two Provençal roses on my razed shoes;" probably alluding to the mode of wearing ribands made in the form of a rose, fastened to the middle of the shoe, to conceal the string. In an old song we find

"Gil-de Roy was a bonny boy,
And roses tull his shoon."

They are, also, frequently mentioned by old dramatic

authors.

Stubbs, speaking of the chaussures now in fashion, says "They have puisnets, pantoffles, and slippers, some of black velvet, some of white, some of green, and some of yellow; some of Spanish leather, and some of English, stitched with silk, and embroidered with gold and silver all over the foot, and other gewgaws innumerable." Of the cork shoes, we read in the same author, "They beare people up two inches or more from the ground." The boots now worn were large, and turned back at the top.

Stowe informs us that poking sticks were now first invented; they were made of steel, and, when heated, were used for plaiting the ruffs. Until this time, sticks of bone or wood had been employed for the same purpose.

Now, too, the English began to make costly washes and perfumes: the latter had been introduced into England by Edward Vere, earl of Oxford. He also brought Elizabeth, from Italy, a pair of embroidered gloves, scented with sweet perfume. They were trimmed with four tufts, or roses, of coloured silk, and her majesty was so much delighted with this new fashion, that in one of her pictures she is painted with them on her hands.

Wharton says that gloves were during this reign often presented to guests of distinction.

Fans, which also came from Italy, according to Stevens, in the time of Henry the Eighth, were now used both by men and women. We are informed, "that even young gentlemen carried fans of feathers in their hands, which," continues the author, "in wars our ancestors wore on their heads." The most costly were made of ostrich-feathers, fastened into handles composed of gold, silver, or ivory, curiously worked. In the Sydney papers mention

is made by Wharton of a fan presented to Elizabeth, the handle of which was studded with diamonds.