From this period English costume is so familiar to our readers as to render any description of it quite unnecessary.

THE TOILETTE IN SCOTLAND.

CHAPTER XIII.

N all the early annals of the Scotch, it is stated that they were a rude and hardy race of men; that they loved war; and were for the most part nearly destitute of clothing. Afterwards we find that they adopted the skins of beasts. Pitscottie, in his "Chronicles of Scotland," speaking of the ancient style of dress, says: They be cloathed with ane mantle, with ane shirt, fachioned after the Irish manner, going bare-legged to the knie."

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The author of a work on Scotland, published in 1603, writes thus: "They (the Highlanders) delight much

in marbled cloths, especially that have long stripes of sundry colours; they love chiefly purple and blue; their predecessors used short mantles, or plaids of divers colours, sundrie ways divided, and among some the same custome is observed to this day; but for the most part now they are brown, most near to the colour of the hadder, to the effect when they lye among the hadders, the bright colours of their plaids shall not bewray them, with the which, rather coloured than clad, they suffer the most cruel tempests that blow in the open fields, in such sort, that in a night of snow they sleep sound."

Pinkerton, speaking of the dress of this people, says: "The kilt is not ancient, but singular, and adapted to their savage life." He also adds, "that it was unknown among the Welsh and Irish, but that it was the dress of the Saxons who could not afford breeches."

The Highlander's dress consisted of the breaconfeile, simply a chequered covering; in original form now almost entirely in disuse. It was a plain piece of tartan, about six yards long and two yards wide. This plaid, or kilt as it was called, was SO arranged that it surrounded the waist in folds, and was held firm by a leathern belt, in such a manner that the lower part fell to the middle of the knee, and then, while the plaid was in folds behind, it was doubled in front. The upper part was fastened on the left shoulder with a large brooch, or pin, so as to give it the most graceful appearance possible, and the two ends were allowed to hang down; frequently, however, that on the right side, as it was much the longest, was permitted to be tucked under the belt.

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Thus the right arm was uncovered, except in cold weather, when the plaid being thrown loosely on, it covered all the body.

Although this plaid was peculiar to the Highlanders, it was, till the end of the last century, frequently worn by the Lowlanders also. As, of course, it had no pockets, a purse, of goat's or badger's skin, or of leather, supplied their place; it was called a sporan, and people of rank and wealth had it or namented in the most gaudy manner, with a silver mouth-piece, tassels, and silver fastenings.

Formerly the Highlanders wore on their feet a piece of untanned hide, cut to the shape and size of the foot, and held fast by leathern thongs. This fashion still continues in the Shetland Isles; and to this day the Scotch dislike any covering on their feet so much, that they always go barefooted when not ashamed of being seen; and an author who wrote a century ago affirms, that he visited a well-educated laird in the north, who wore neither shoes nor stockings. At a still later period, respectable people of both sexes might be seen walking to church barefooted, carrying their shoes and stockings in a bundle; when they arrived at or near the churchyard, they quietly sat down, put them on, and, when the service was over, took them off again, and walked home without them. The stockings, generally of the same pattern as the plaid, were formerly not knitted, but cut out of the web, a custom which still prevails in some of the Highland regiments. The garters worn by the men were of rich patterns, very broad, and often ornamented with tassels.

The buskins formerely worn by the Highlanders

were of undressed deer's hide, which, as the hair was worn outwards, procured for them the title of redshanks; but the present brogue is made of untanned leather, with holes to admit and let out the water. Thus we read:

"Speed, Malise, speed! the dun deer's hide

On fleeter foot was never tied."

To finish the national costume, we must mention the bonnet, generally of blue cloth, of a round, flat shape, sometimes ornamented with an eagle's feather. A dirk, a knife and fork, a spoon, and a pair of pistols, were essential accompaniments to this garb, which, however, differed according to the rank of the wearer.

The short coat and waistcoat, which formed the dress of the wealthy, was adorned with silver buttons, tassels, embroidery, and lace, according to the fashion of the day; and it is remarked by General Stewart, that silver buttons frequently came to them from an inheritance of long descent. The reason they gave for wearing buttons of such massive silver was, that if the wearer died in battle, or at a distance from his home, their value would defray the expense of a handsome funeral.

For a great many years shirts were unknown among this people; and it is an old saying among them, that shirts and rheumatism came together.

It is asserted by many authors, that of all national garbs there is not one that can be compared to the Highland costume for beauty and gracefulness. Certainly in these peaceful times its utility may be ques