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THE

TOILETTE IN WALES.

CHAPTER XV.

HE ancient costume of
Wales greatly resembled
that of Ireland; cloaks or
mantles were always worn,
and the feet were gene-
rally naked.
The Rev.
W. Bingley, speaking of

this country, says: "The women wear long blue cloaks, that descend almost to the feet; they are seldom to be seen without them. In North Wales they all have hats similar to those of the men, and blue stockings, without any feet to them, which they keep down by a kind of loop, that is put round one of the toes. In the unfrequented parts they seldom wear any shoes except on Sundays."

In Warrington's "History of Wales," we read that the ancient Welsh "had no expensive riches in their cloaths. The same garb that the people were used to wear in the day, served them also in the night; and this consisted of a thin mantle, and a garment or shirt worn next to the skin. They either went with their feet entirely bare, or they used boots of raw leather, instead of shoes, sewed together with raw skin."

THE TOILETTE IN FRANCE.

CHAPTER XVI.

[graphic]

O France is universally conceded the palm in the race of fashion; and she is unwearied in her exertions to retain the distinction.

The dress of the ancient Gauls was,

we are told, very simple, and, like that of most other European nations, consisted of skins, formed into a rude kind of tunic, and in winter a cloak of the same, fastened on one shoulder, and descending to the heel. Though these garments could not well fetter their movements when they went to battle, still we find that, either for lightness or bravado, when in the presence of an enemy, the Gauls divested themselves of all covering as far as the waist. On the head they usually wore a skin cap, of a very

primitive shape: and even these few garments were simple in form and coarse in texture. The dress of the women only differed from that of the men in having the tunic longer, and the cap shaped like a triangle.

But though habited in so simple a manner, the love of ornament which has characterised the French in later times, appears, even at the early period of which we speak, to have been remarkable. They covered themselves with chains, rings, necklaces, and bracelets. In the "Eneis," we read:

"The approaching Gauls,

Obscure in night, ascend and seize the walls.
The gold, dissembled well their golden hair:

And golden chains on their white necks they wear."

There are still extant many monuments of the Gauls; one of the most ancient was dug up in the cathedral church of Paris in 1711; it represents six figures, all dressed in tunics, with sleeves reaching to the wrist; over this is worn a saye, which is exactly the same as the Roman sagum, whence its name, only it has sleeves. The heads of these figures are covered with caps, which bend forward much like the Phrygian bonnet. Considerable difference as to the lesser details of dress is frequently met with in these statues, and no doubt various fashions were employed, both for forming and ornamenting the habiliments of the Gauls, even though their attire is described as so simple. Long garments, adorned with a border of sable, ermine, or miniver, formed, during several ages, the dress of persons of distinction.

Clovis and his successors for many generations wore a tunic, and a mantle resembling the Greek chlamyde. On the door of the church of St. Germain des Prés, are to be seen figures of most of the ancient French kings. There stands Clovis, and by his side Clotilde, his queen. The former has a long beard, moustaches, and short hair; his dress is a tunic and chlamyde, and his shoes are very échancré. Clotilde wears a crown, her tunic resembles the côte-hardi of later

Loviss (lotilds years; it fits tight to the shape

as far as the throat, where it is confined by a broad band of jewels, another band encircles her waist, and a third forms the pointed shape of the côte-hardi to below the waist, where it seems joined to a petticoat with numerous folds. girdle is ornamented with jewels, and from it hangs a long cord also ornamented with jewels. The chlamyde falls nearly to the ground, and a broad jewelled band encircles the waist.

[graphic]

The

Montfaucon in his "Mon. Fran." gives drawings of several

old statues of Clovis, and other

royal personages. He has copied two or three of the

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