gloves and embroidered stomachers, the same as those "usually worn by gentlemen in these countries." The annexed cut represents the costume of a lady of Florence.

"The dress of the inhabitants of Sardinia," says Pinkerton," is a vest of white or scarlet woollen, covered with a long coat, or a short jacket, made out of four sheep-skins; this garment is without sleeves. The woman's dress has nothing peculiar."

THE

TOILETTE IN SICILY AND MALTA.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

ARTIN thus describes the dress of the Maltese: "They are clothed in a loose cotton shirt, over which is a wide vest or jacket, with silver, sometimes gold buttons;

a long twisted scarf wound several times round the body, with very

often a sheathed knife placed therein; loose trousers, leaving the legs bare from nearly the knees downwards; and very peculiar shoes, called korch, which is a leathern sole fastened with strings or thongs to the foot and leg, nearly like the old Roman sandal. The head in winter is covered with a

woollen cap of different colours, having a hood attached, and falling down on the back; in summer large straw hats are worn. The women are attached to their primitive dress, consisting of a short cotton shift, a petticoat generally of a blue colour, and upper robe opening at the sides, and a corset without sleeves." The higher classes among the Maltese follow the French and English fashions; but we must not omit to mention the faldetta, a black silk veil, their usual coiffure when abroad, which almost rivals in grace and elegance the

the

much admired mantilla of the Spanish.

Denon, in his "Travels in Sicily and Malta," in

year 1787, says: "Large breeches, a shirt of blue linen, a broad sash, and the arms and feet left naked, form the whole description of the light dress and ornaments of the Maltese." Speaking of the women, he remarks: "Their dresses display more of coquetry than magnificence; elegance and neatness constitute their luxury."

The accounts given by old authors of the magnificence of the ancient inhabitants of Sicily, are truly amazing. Plato, when he visited this island, was so struck with the luxury of Agrigentum, that he exclaimed, "They build as if they were never to die, and eat as if they had not an hour to live." Diodorus also, speaking of the riches of this island, mentions one of the citizens returning victorious from the Olympic games, and entering his city attended by

three hundred chariots, each drawn by four white horses, richly caparisoned; and gives many other instances of their profusion and luxury.

Brydone, in his "Tour through Sicily and Malta," says of the ladies of Palermo, "The ladies here have remarkably fine hair, and they understand how to dress and adorn it to the greatest advantage. It is now only used as an embellishment, but in former times, we are told that, like that of Samson, it was found to be the strength and protection of the country. Their historians relate (in whose reign, I believe, is rather dubious), that this city had suffered a long siege from the Saracens, and was greatly reduced by famine; but what distressed them still more, there were no materials to be found for making bowstrings, and they were on the point of surrendering. In this dilemma a patriotic dame stepped forth, and proposed to the women that the whole of them should cut off their hair, and twist it into bowstrings: this was immediately complied with. The besieged, animated by this gallant sacrifice of the fair, renewed their defence with so much vigour, that the assailants were beat off; and a reinforcement soon after arriving, the city was saved. The ladies still value themselves on this story. The hair of our ladies,' says one of their quaint poets, ' is still employed in the same office ; but now it discharges no other shafts but those of Cupid; and the only cords it forms are the cords of love."

In Denon's "Travels" we read: "Historians relate, that the ancient Argyrians cut off their hair to sacrifice it to Hercules, in token of gratitude for the water with which that hero furnished them, Argyrium

before being totally destitute of water.

Whether it be from tradition, or for their greater convenience, the modern inhabitants still cut their hair almost entirely off, preserving only two locks on the temples."

Brydone mentions some statues, which, though of marble, gave a good idea of the dresses worn in the last century, for they were formed of pieces of different colours. The shoes were black, the stockings red, and the garments of blue, green, and almost every hue, ornamented with a rich lace of giall' antique. The periwigs of the men, as well as the head-dresses of the ladies, were white, and the flowing ruffles were of the same colour.

In this island is found a fish called Pinna marina, from which is extracted a fine thread, much resembling silk, which the inhabitants make into beautiful gloves and stockings.