played upon their persons vast quantities of jewels, and all the court was habited in yellow, the favourite colour of the nation."

The neighbours of the Sikhs, the Scindians, from religious motives, wear garments of dark colour, and form their turbans of tight and round folds of cloth.

The weaving and embroidery of India are justly celebrated, and have been so for many ages. The stuffs of Mooltan and Bhawalpoor are now interwoven with gold, and frequently of a purple colour; and we read that Aureng-Zêbe had a tent lined with Masulipatam chintzes, figured with flowers, so natural in appearance, and of such vivid colours, that the tent resembled a real parterre.

The muslin drawers worn by the women in India are frequently most richly and beautifully embroidered with needlework, and some of them are of so fine a texture as only to allow of once putting on. Satins and silks are also embroidered in the hand, in great quantities. One of the garments worn by AurengZêbe is described as having been a vest of white delicately-flowered satin, adorned with a silk and gold embroidery of the finest texture and the brightest colours.

In this country men as well as women devote much time to embroidery; and it is not unusual to see several of the former seated cross-legged on a mat employed in a manner that in Europe would be considered effeminate, and quite below the dignity of the nobler sex. But in India the needle does not belong exclusively to woman; her prerogative is there

invaded; and the most delicate patterns of tinted flowers, or muslins fine as the spider's web, are ornamented in gold and silver threads by these industrious workmen.

THE

TOILETTE IN THE BIRMAN EMPIRE.

CHAPTER XLI.

HERE is no country in which a more minute attention is paid to the ornamental parts of dress than in this division of the East. The tsaloc, or chain, is the badge of the order of nobility, of which there are different degrees, distinguished by the number of strings or rows of precious stones which compose this ornament. These strings are fastened by bosses where they unite. Three strings of open chain-work mark the lowest rank; three of twisted wire is the next, then of six, of nine, and of twelve. No subject is allowed more than twelve; the king alone_wears twenty-four.

With the Birmans many articles of daily use, as well as of ornament, indicate the rank of the possessor. The shape of the betel-box, which is carried by an attendant after the people of distinction; the earrings, cap of ceremony, horse furniture, and even the metal drinking-cup,- all indicate the different degrees of society; and woe be to him who assumes the insignia of a rank to which he has no legitimate right!

The common dress of a man of distinction consists of a tight coat with long sleeves made of muslin, or of very fine nankeen, and a silk wrapper fastened at the waist. The court-dress of the nobility is very becoming it is formed of a long robe, either of flowered satin or velvet, reaching to the ankles, with an open collar and loose sleeves. Over this there is a scarf, or flowing mantle, that hangs from the shoulders; and on their heads they wear high caps made of velvet, or silk embroidered with flowers, according to the rank of the wearer. Ear-rings are an indispensable part of the attire. Some of them are made of gold tubes about three inches in length, expanding into a ball at the lower end; others consist of heavy masses of gold, the weight of which often drags the ear down to the extent of two or three inches.

Colonel Symes, in his account of an "Embassy to the Kingdom of Ava," thus describes the appearance of the Birman king :-" His crown was a high conical cap, richly studded with precious stones; his fingers were covered with rings; and in his dress he bore the appearance of a man cased in golden armour, whilst a gold wing on each shoulder did not add much lightness to his figure. He advanced but slowly, and appeared not to possess a free use of his limbs. I was informed,

however, that this appearance of weakness did not proceed from any bodily infirmity, but from the weight of the regal habiliments."

White is the royal colour, and the state umbrellas are always of a snowy hue, richly bespangled with gold. None of the Eastern courts display more splendour and magnificence than the Birman. A European is quite dazzled by the brilliancy of the officers of state, with their glittering garments, rich palanquins, and large gilded fans, as well as by the dancing girls, who are thus described by Moore :

"Around the white necks of the nymphs who danc'd
Hung carcanets of orient gems, that glanc'd
More brilliant than the sea-glass glittering o'er

The hills of crystal on the Caspian shore;
While from their long, dark tresses, in a fall

Of curls descending, bells as musical

As those that, on the golden shafted trees

Of Eden, shake in the Eternal Breeze,

Rung round their steps, at every bound more sweet,
As 't were the extatic language of the feet!"

The Birman women have their distinguishing ornaments as well as the men: their hair is tied in a bunch at the top of the head, and bound round with a fillet, the embroidery and jewels of which mark their respective ranks. Their dress consists of a short chemise, and a loose jacket with tight sleeves. Round their waist they roll a long piece of silk, or cloth, which reaches to the feet, and sometimes trails on the ground.

When women of distinction go abroad, they put on a scarf, or shawl, made of silk, which they throw around them with much grace and elegance. Women in full dress stain the palms of their hands and their