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ish pirate, named Tangripermes, settled there. But the Greek admiral, John Ducas, defeated him in a bloody battle, and pursued the flying Turks up the Mæander. It 1306 it was among the places which suffered from the exactions of the grand duke Roger; and two years after, it surrendered to sultan Saysan, who, to prevent future insurrections, removed most of the inhabitants to Tyriæum, where they were massacred. The transactions, in which mention is made of Ephesus after this period, belong, as has been already observed, to its neighbour and successor Aiasalúck.

Ephesus appears to have subsisted as an inconsiderable place for some time. The inhabitants being few, and the wall of Lysimachus too extensive to be defended, or too ruinous to be repaired, it was found expedient or necessary to contract their boundary, by erecting an ordinary wall, which descends from near the stadium on one hand, and on the other, from the wall on mount Prion °, toward the morass or port, not including the market-place. The difficulty of rendering even this small portion tenable seems to have produced the removal to Aiasalúck, as a situation more safe and commodious. A farther motive may be added, that the port through time and neglect was changed, and become a nuisance, rather than of public utility.

The Ephesians are now a few Greek peasants, living in extreme wretchedness, dependence, and insensibility; the representatives of an illustrious people, and inhabiting the wreck of their greatness;

• Revett has struck his pen through the words "from near the "stadium on one hand, and on the other," and in the next line, after "mount Prion," has added, "and passes by the theatre."

some, the substructions of the glorious edifices which they raised; some, beneath the vaults of the stadium, once the crowded scene of their diversions; and some, by the abrupt precipice, in the sepulchres, which received their ashes. We employed a couple of them to pile stones, to serve instead of a ladder, at the arch of the stadium, and to clear a pedestal of the portico by the theatre from rubbish. We had occasion for another to dig at the Corinthian temple; and sending to the stadium, the whole tribe, ten or twelve, followed; one playing all the way before them on a ride lyre, and at times striking the soundingboard with the fingers of his left hand in concert with the strings. One of them had on a pair of sandals of goat-skin, laced with thongs, and not uncommon. After gratifying their curiosity, they returned back as they came, with their musician in front.

Such are the present citizens of Ephesus, and such is the condition to which that renowned city has been gradually reduced. It was a ruinous place when the emperor Justinian filled Constantinople with its statues, and raised his church of St. Sophia on its columns. Since then it has been almost quite exhausted. Its streets are obscured and overgrown. A herd of goats was driven to it for shelter from the sun at noon; and a noisy flight of crows from the quarries seemed to insult its silence. We heard the partridge call in the area of the theatre and of the stadium. The glorious pomp of its heathen worship is no longer remembered; and Christianity, which was there nursed by apostles, and fostered by general councils, until it increased to fulness of stature, barely lingers on in an existence hardly visible.

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CHAP. XXXVII.

THE SELENUSIAN LAKES-A FISHERY-THE CAYSTER-ROAD ON GALLESUS-NEW LAND-PORT PANORMUS-THE ISLAND SYRIE.

In the plain of Ephesus were anciently two lakes P, formed partly by stagnant water from the river Selinus, which ran near the Artemisium, or temple of Diana, probably from mount Gallesus. The kings had taken from the goddess the revenue arising from them, which was great; but it was restored by the Romans. The publicans then forced her to pay taxes. Artemidorus was sent ambassador to Rome, and pleaded successfully her privilege of exemption, for which and his other services the city erected a statue of him in gold. A temple in a bottom by one of the lakes was said to have been founded by Agamemnon 9.

The reader may recollect, that, coming from Claros, we crossed the mouth of a lake, and afterwards rode along by its side. This was the lower Selenusia. Near the ferry we discovered the other, a long lake, parallel with the first, and extending across the plain. The weir, which we saw, will inform us what were the riches of these waters. Ephesus was greatly frequented, and the receptacle of all who journeyed into the east from Italy and Greece. A fishery, so near to so populous a mart, must have been an article equally convenient to the city, and profitable to the proprietor. Some pieces of build

P Templum Dianæ complexi e diversis regionibus duo Selinuntes. Pliny.

4 Strabo, p. 387. 642.

ing, with cement, remain by the river side above the ferry.

The river Cayster, after entering the plain, runs by Gallesus, and crosses above the lakes, opposite the square tower. Lower down, it leaves but a narrow pass, obstructed with thickets at the foot of the mountain it then becomes wider and deeper; and mingles, the stream still and smooth, with the sea. On the banks, and in the morass or port, and in the lake near the ferry, we saw thick groves of tall reeds, some growing above twenty feet high; and it is observable, that the river-god is represented on the Ephesian medals with this aquatic as one of his attributes.

An ordinary bridge of three arches is built over the river, at the foot of Gallesus. The road on that mountain has been hewn in the rock. Our Armenians told us the work was done by St. Paul, with a single stroke of a cimeter. Some caravans still use it; crossing the plain and the mouth of the morass or port to the gap below the square tower, or ferrying over the Cayster lower down in a boat with a rope, and proceeding to Scala Nova, without touching at Aiasalúck.

The Cayster has its rise up in the country among the hills formerly called Cilbianian. It brings down many rivers, with a lake once named the Pegasean; which was driven into it by the Pyrrhites, a furious stream, as may be inferred from the name. The slime, which is collected in its course, propagates new land. The sea once acted by its flux and reflux on the port of Ephesus, which has been diPerhaps that which was seen from mount Gallesus north

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minished in proportion as the soil has increased and become firm ground. The river also has perhaps gradually changed its own bed, while it has augmented the plain.

The arrangement of this portion of the coast, given by Strabo, is as follows. After Neapolis, now Scala Nova, and Phygela, going northward, was port Panormus, which boasted the temple of the Ephesian Diana; then the city, which had arsenals and a port; beyond the mouth of the Cayster was a lake, called Selenusia, made by water which the sea repelled; and in the same direction another, communicating with it; then mount Gallesus. normus, it is likely, was the general name of the whole haven, and comprised both the Sacred Port, or that by which the temple stood, and the City Port, now the morass. The former is perhaps quite filled up.

Pa

Pliny mentions, that, in consequence of the encroachments of the river on the sea, the island Syrie was then seen in the middle of a plain. That island was, I suspect, the rock of Aiasalúck t.

CHAP. XXXVIII.

OF THE TEMPLE OF DIANA THE IDOL-ACCOUNT OF ITTHE PRIESTS, &c.-SELF-MANIFESTATIONS OF THE GODDESS-AN EPHESIAN DECREE-REMARKS.

WE would close our account of Ephesus with the preceding chapter, but the curious reader will ask,

t the rock of Aiasalúck] Revett has drawn his pen through these words, and substituted in the margin, " the mount near the "banks of the Cayster, between the ferry and the mouth of that 66 river."

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