IV.

the city is built," and came to a precipice CHAP. corresponding with the words of the Evangelist. It is above the Maronite Church, and probably the precise spot alluded to by the text of St. Luke's Gospel.

Christi.

But because the monks and friars, who are most interested in such discoveries, have not found within the Gospels a sufficient number of references to Nazareth, upon which they might erect shops for the sale of their indulgences, they have actually taken the liberty to add to the writings of the Evangelists, by making them vouch for a number of absurdities, concerning which not a syllable occurs within their records. It were an endless task to enumerate all these. One celebrated relic may however Mensa be mentioned; because there is not the slightest. notice of any such thing in the New Testament; and because his Holiness the Pope has not scrupled to vouch for its authenticity, as well as to grant very plenary indulgence to those pilgrims who visit the place where it is exhibited. This is nothing more than a large stone, on which they affirm that CHRIST did eat with his Disciples, both before and after his resurrection. They have built a chapel over it; and upon the walls of this building several copies of a printed

IV.

CHAP. certificate, asserting its title to reverence, are affixed. We transcribed one of these curious documents, and here subjoin it in a Note'. There is not an object in all Nazareth so much the resort of pilgrims as this stone,--Greeks, Catholics, Arabs, and even Turks; the two former classes on account of the seven-years' indulgence granted to those who visit it; the ́two latter, because they believe that some virtue must reside within a stone before which all comers are so eager to prostrate themselves.

As we passed through the streets, we heard loud screams, as of a person frantic with rage and grief; which drew our attention towards a miserable hovel, whence we perceived a woman issuing hastily, with a cradle containing an infant. Having Having placed the child upon the area

(1) While the author was engaged in making the following transcript of the Papal Certificate, the Greeks and Catholics who were of the party busied themselves in breaking off pieces of the stone, as relics.

"Tradictio continua est, et nunquam interrupta, apud omnes nationes Orientales, hanc petram, dictam MENSA CHRISTI, illam ipsam esse supra unam Dominus noster Jesus Christus cum suis comedit Discipulis, ante et post suam resurrectionem a mortuis.

"Et sancta Romana Ecclesia INDULGENTIAM concessit septem annorum et totidem quadragenarum, omnibus Christi fidelibus hunc sanctum locum visitantibus, recitando saltèm ibi unum Pater, et Ave, dummodo sit in statu gratiæ."

before her dwelling, she as quickly ran back again; we then perceived her beating something violently, all the while filling the air with the most piercing shrieks. Running to see

what was the cause of her cries, we observed an enormous serpent, which she had found near her infant, and had completely dispatched before our arrival. Never were maternal feelings more strikingly pourtrayed than in the countenance of this woman. Not satisfied with having killed the animal, she continued her blows until she had reduced it to atoms, unheeding any thing that was said to her, and only abstracting her attention from its mangled body to cast, occasionally, a wild and momentary glance towards her child.

CHAP.

IV.

of the

In the evening, we visited the environs; and, Environs walking to the brow of the hill above the town, Town. were gratified by an interesting prospect of the long valley of Nazareth, and some hills, between which a road leads to the neighbouring Plain of Esdraelon, and to Jerusalem. Some of the Arabs came to converse with us. We were surprised to hear them speaking Italian: they said they had been early instructed in this language, by the friars of the Convent. Their conversation was full of complaints against the rapa

CHAP. cious tyranny of their Governors. One of them said, "Beggars in England are happier and

IV.

better than we poor Arabs."

said one of our party.

"WHY BETTER?"

Happier," replied the

Arab who had made the observation, "in a good Government: better, because they will not endure a bad one.'

The plants near the town were almost all withered. We found only four of which we were able to select tolerable specimens. These were, the new species of Dianthus mentioned in the account of our journey from Sephoury; the Syrian Pink, or Dianthus Monadelphus1; the Ammi Copticum; and the Anethum graveolens3: these we carefully placed in our herbary, as memorials of the interesting spot on which they were collected. We observed the manner of collecting the harvest: it is carried upon the backs of camels: and the corn being afterwards placed in heaps, is trodden out by bullocks walking in a circle; something like the mode of treading corn in the Crimea, where horses are used for this purpose.

The second night after our arrival, as soon as

(1) Ventenat.

(2) Linn.

(3) Linn. et Dill.

it

CHAP.

IV.

Ordinary

in the Holy

Land.

grew dark, we all stretched ourselves upon the floor of our apartment, not without serious alarm of catching the plague, but tempted by the hope Penance of of obtaining a little repose. This we had found Travellers to be impracticable the night before, in consequence of the vermin. The hope was however vain; not one of our party could close his eyes. Every instant it was necessary to rise, and endeavour to shake off the noxious animals with which our bodies were covered. In addition to this penance, we were serenaded until four o'clock in the morning, the hour we had fixed for our departure, by the constant ringing of a chapel bell, as a charm against the plague; by the barking of dogs; the braying of asses; the howling of jackals; and by the squalling of children.