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Southampton Street, STRAND to COVENT GARDEN MARKET, was so called in compliment to Lady Rachel Russell, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and wife of William, Lord Russell, the patriot. Eminent Inhabitants.—Mrs. Oldfield, the actress ; Arthur Maynwaring, in his will (dated 1712), describes her as residing in "New Southampton Street, in the parish of St. Paul's, Covent Garden.” David Garrick in No. 27, from his marriage in 1749 until 1772, during the most brilliant part of his career, intermediately between King Street and the Adelphi.

and will be easily recognised.

The house still bears the same number

It is on the west side near the top; is

Dick Estcourt,

of red brick, and has four front windows in each of the upper storeys. Thomas Linley, the composer, and father of Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, died, 1795, at No. 11 (pulled down in 1890). the actor, died (1713) at his lodgings on the west side. Dr. Lemprière, of Classical Dictionary celebrity, died at a house in this street in 1824. No. 31, Godfrey and Cooke's (established 1680), the oldest chemist and druggist's shop in London,-is now occupied by a publisher,-lasted till about 1860, when the firm discontinued this house and retained the business in Conduit Street. There was a bar at the south end of the street which was taken away about thirty years ago.

Southwark, Borough of, on the south of the Thames, long known as the Borough, takes its name from being originally the fortification of London on the south. Being on the high road to London from the Continent it appears to have been inhabited from the earliest times. During the Roman occupation many villas were built here for the wealthier Roman colonists. George Gwilt's Map, compiled in 1819, shows some twenty distinct finds of Roman remains about 10 feet below the present surface, and connected with villas and burial-places, and more have been discovered since. In the construction of Southwark Street evidences of dwellings built on piles (like lake dwellings) came to light.

Southwark was at the first confined to within a short distance of the river, known as the gildable manor, and was from time immemorial a borough. "The burgesses in 1356 say they had formerly a charter franchise which was destroyed by fire, they pray an exemplification of the same, and it was allowed." Bit by bit Southwark came under the City jurisdiction, but never completely so; and although made a wardBridge Ward Without-it was never like other wards, it conferred no citizenship on the inhabitants and gave them no privileges.1 On a vacancy in Bridge Ward Without it is offered to the senior alderman, as being in the category of an honorary dignity. [See Bridge Ward Without.] The ward has no representatives in the Common Council. The Borough is in shape somewhat like the map of Italy, St. George's Road and Bethlem being at the toe of the boot. It lies entirely south of the Thames, having Lambeth to the west and Deptford to the east.

1 The first alderman of the ward was Sir John Ayliffe, barber surgeon, who was appointed in 1550.

The older borough comprised the parishes of St. George, St. John, Horselydown, St. Olave, St. Thomas and St. Saviour, exclusive of the Clink and Christ Church (Paris Garden); later on it included, as it does now, Christ Church, the Church Liberty, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe. In 1631, during a time of scarcity, the Lord Mayor counted 16,880 mouths in Southwark, but the area then was so much smaller than it is now that it can scarcely be compared with the Southwark of the census of 1881, which showed a population of 221,946.

The town or village which had grown up in Saxon times where the Roman villas had previously stood was burnt by William the Conqueror, and little seems to have remained of it when the Domesday Survey was made. Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, then had "a monastery and tide-way in Southwark." These he seems to have acquired by somewhat sharp practice. In Edward the Confessor's time "of the produce of the port where ships resort, the King received two parts, Earl Godwin the third," but now the Bishop seems to have appropriated the whole to himself. Edward III., by a charter of the first year of his reign (1327), granted the vill of Southwark to the citizens of London who, as recited, in a petition to the King in Parliament had complained that malefactors escaped there out of the jurisdiction of the City, and prayed that such vill might be given to them. With consent of his Parliament the King grants the said vill in fee farm. The grant—against which the inhabitants of Southwark petitioned in vain- -was confirmed in a second charter of the 11th year (1337), and in fuller terms in a third of the 50th of the same King's reign (1376). Several charters in later reigns confirmed, extended, or varied the terms of the grant, the last, which vests the entire control of the borough in the Lord Mayor and Corporation of London, being that of 5th Edward VI., 1551.1 Southwark sent representatives to Parliament from the 23d of Edward I., 1296.2

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Southwark, from the earliest times, was the chief thoroughfare to and from London and the southern counties and towns, including Canterbury and the cities of the Continent. This is sufficient to account for the large number of inns, such as the Bear at the Bridge foot, the King's Head, the Talbot or Tabard of Chaucer's "Canterbury Pilgrims [see Tabard], and the White Hart, which was the headquarters of Jack Cade during his brief occupancy of the City and Borough (1450). Cade's inn was destroyed in the great Southwark fire of 1676, but was rebuilt, and it was at this White Hart that Sam Weller was first introduced to a world of admirers. The inn was cleared away in 1889.

The Duke of Hamilton of the time of Charles I., while knocking for admittance at an inn gate in Southwark, about four in the morning, was arrested by a party of soldiers searching for Sir Lewis Dyves.

He told them a very formal story of himself and his business, which at first satisfied them; but they observed that as he took a pipe of tobacco by them, he burned several great papers to fire it, whereupon they searched him, and found such

1 Manning and Bray, and Brayley's Surrey; Liber Albus; Riley's Memorials; Norton. 2 Manning and Bray, vol. iii. p. 649.

papers about him as discovered him.-Burnet's Memoirs of the Dukes of Hamilton, P. 384.

Some of the inns bore odd signs. Andrews, in Anecdote History of Great Britain (1794), mentions that "in the borough of Southwark is a sign on which is inscribed The Old Pick-my-toe." Mrs. Piozzi, who long dwelt in the Borough, wrote in the margin, "So it is: I knew the sign and was probably then the only person who could have guessed the derivation." The figure represented the ancient statue of the Roman slave seeking for the thorn in his foot.1 In the 16th century there were here many town houses of persons of importance, such as abbots, priors and others. There were Suffolk House, by St. George's Church, for Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and his wife, the Princess Mary; and Winchester House for the Bishops of Winchester. West of the latter place were playhouses, bear and bull baiting circuses, and stews or licensed brothels.

In the old poem of "Cock Lorell's Bote," printed by Wynkyn de Worde in the reign of Henry VIII., the Bankside, Southwark, is called "The Stewes Banke." They were of very old standing. As early as the reign of Edward I. there was an ordinance of the City providing

That no boatman shall have his boat moored and standing over the water after sunset; but they shall have all their boats moored on this [the City] side of the water that so thieves or other misdoers may not be carried by them under pain of imprisonment : nor may they carry any man or woman, either denizens or strangers, unto the Stews [of Southwark] except in the day-time under pain of imprisonment. Liber Albus, B. iii. pt. ii. p. 242.

Southwark had also an unenviable celebrity for its prisons. These prisons were the King's Bench (Queen's Prison), the Marshalsea, the White Lion, the Borough Compter, and the Clink, or prison of the Clink Liberty, as the Manor of Southwark was of old called. [See those names.] "I live," said Mr. Highland, member for Southwark, speaking in the House of Commons, June 6, 1667,-"I live amongst prisoners. In three prisons near me there are above one thousand prisoners." 2 Taylor, the Water Poet, thus refers to these prisons :

Five jayles or prisons are in Southwark placed,
The Counter, once St. Margarets church defaced,
The Marshalsea, the Kings Bench and White Lyon-
Then thers the Clinke, where handsome lodgings be,
And much good may it do them all for me,

It is pleasanter to remember that the first English Bible printed in England was "Imprynted in Southwarke for James Nycolson," 1536. Southwark being the last stage towards London was necessarily the chosen resort of reformers, disturbers, and lovers of change. Godwin and his sons made incursions in 1052. Simon de Montfort was here in 1264 during the Barons' Wars; attempts were made to take him by surprise at his lodgings, but they failed. In 1554 Sir Thomas Wyatt found his way to Tower Hill through Southwark. In 1666 Colonel Thompson and 2000 of people gathered here "for King Jesus."

1 Piozziana, p. 183.

2 Burton's Diary, vol. ii. p. 191.

A great change was made in the appearance of Southwark when George Dance the younger, R.A., "Clerk of ye City's Works" at the end of the last century, laid out the Bridge House estate of the Corporation in St. George's Fields. Since then changes have been continuous, and very little of the old-fashioned character of the Borough is now left. [See also Bankside, Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, Bear Garden, Bridge Ward Without, George (St.) the Martyr, Globe Theatre, Guy's Hospital, Hope Theatre, Horselydown, Mint, Olave (St.), Paris Garden, Rose, Saviour (St.), Thomas (St.) à Waterings, Thomas's (St.) Hospital, Winchester House.]

Southwark Bridge, a bridge over the Thames, was of three castiron arches, resting on stone piers, at the narrowest part of the river, between London and Blackfriars Bridges. It was designed by Sir John Rennie, and erected by a public company, at an expense of about £800,000. The first stone was laid April 23, 1815, by Admiral Viscount Keith. The bridge was opened without any public ceremony at midnight of March 24, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 240 feet, of the side arches each 210 feet. The entire weight of iron employed in upholding the bridge is about 5780 tons. The roadway is 700 feet long and 42 wide. The approach from the City is by Queen Street, Cheapside. Southwark Bridge was purchased by the Corporation of London in 1866 for £218,868, and made free of toll. A good general account of the bridge and its erection will be found in the Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, pp. 7 and 22-26.

Southwark Fair, called also the Lady Fair and St. Margaret's Fair. It was one of the three great fairs of special importance described in a Proclamation of Charles I., "unto which there is usually extraordinary resort out of all parts of the kingdom."1 The three fairs were Bartholomew Fair, Sturbridge Fair, near Cambridge, and Our Lady Fair, in the borough of Southwark. Liberty to hold an annual fair in Southwark, on September 7, 8, and 9, was granted to the City of London by the charter of 2 Edward IV. (November 2, 1462), but it was probably held long before in a loose informal manner. The charter was confirmed by that of 5 Edward VI. (April 23, 1551), together with a Court of piepoudre for the determination of all suits and offences occurring during the fair. [See Bartholomew Fair; Piepowder Court.] The fair was held. in the public ways, courts and inn-yards from above the Tabard to St. George's Church. Though the allowed time for its continuance by charter was only three days, it generally continued, like other fairs, for fourteen days. It was famous for its drolls, puppet shows, rope dancing, music booths, and tippling houses.

September 21, 1668.-To Southwark Fair, very dirty, and there saw the puppetshew of Whittington, which was pretty to see; and how that idle thing do work upon people that see it, and even myself too! And thence to Jacob Hall's dancing

1 Rymer, vol. xix. p. 185.

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on the ropes, where I saw such action as I never saw before, and mightily worth seeing; and here took acquaintance with a fellow that carried me to a tavern, whither came the music of this booth, and by and by Jacob Hall himself, with whom I had a mind to speak, to hear whether he had ever any mischief by falls in his time. He told me, 66 Yes, many, but never to the breaking of a limb." He seems a mighty strong man. So giving them a bottle or two of wine, I away.-Pepys.

Before going into the fair Pepys had taken the precaution to leave his purse with Bland his waterman, "at the Beare," for "fear of his pocket being cut."

September 13, 1660.-I saw in Southwark at St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and apes dance and do other feates of activity on ye high rope; they were gallantly clad à la mode, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their hatts; they saluted one another with as good a grace as if instructed by a dauncing-master. They turn'd heels over head with a basket having eggs in it without breaking any; also with lighted candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them, and with vessells of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on ye high rope to admiration; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man who tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. (sic) weight with the haire of his head onely.—Evelyn.

It was studied for its low life by Hogarth and Gay, who have left us the celebrated picture of Southwark Fair and the popular Beggar's Opera. Powell, Booth, and Macklin were all three introduced at the fair.

His [Boheme's] first appearance was at a Booth in Southwark Fair, which in those days, lasted two weeks, and was much frequented by persons of all distinctions, of both sexes; he acted the part of Menelaus in the best droll I ever saw, called the Siege of Troy.-Victor's History of the Theatres (1761), vol. ii. p. 74.

Timothy Fielding, the actor (who has been confused with Henry Fielding, the author), had a booth at Southwark, Fair. [See BLUE Maid ALLEY.] The bellman by order of the Justices cried down the fair in 1743, and it was prohibited for the future by the Common Council in 1762, having long been scandalous for its scenes of riot and immorality; it was finally suppressed by the Corporation in September 1763.

Southwark Park, of 63 acres, was formed by the Metropolitan Board of Works and opened to the public in 1869. The name has the same misappropriateness as that of Finsbury Park. Southwark Park is situated immediately west of the Commercial Docks and the Deptford Lower Road, with the whole of Bermondsey between it and Southwark, The park is in the midst of a dense and very poor population, to whom it is a great boon, and by whom it appears to be thoroughly appreciated. It cost about £96,000. There was an old Southwark Park, an appendage to Suffolk House and a part of the King's Manor, which was excepted from the grant of the borough of Southwark to the City of London in the charter of Edward VI.1

Southwark Place, SOUTHWARK. [See Suffolk House, Southwark.] Southwark Street, a broad and handsome street (but disfigured at its western end by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway

1 Norton, p. 388.

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