Sow the second crop on a gentle hot-bed. the earth should be stirred up once a week. Sow celery for the first crop on a gentle hot- Carnations must be fresh potted, and sheltered bed, and draw earth up to blanch what remains from heavy rains by mats. Flowering shrubs in the ground, in dry weather. Sow coleworts and forest trees of all sorts, except ever-greens, for the first crop: cress and mustard every may be planted at the end of the month. Grass week on hot-beds. Cucumber beds must be walks, if intended to be made next month, constantly attended to, to keep them up to a should have the ground prepared by levelling it. proper heat, and another made for the plants Hot-beds for sowing amaranths, balsams, and raised last month: when they have three or other tender annuals, should be prepared, and four rough leaves, plant them out, three or four the seed sown at the end of the month. Hyato each light, and sow more seed. Tie up en- cinths which are above ground should be dive for blanching, and plant out some for seed. covered with mats supported by hoops. MigEschalots, garlic, and rocambole, should not be nonette must be sown on a hot-bed, or it will deferred planting, or the roots will be very do in a pot placed in a warm room where the small. Ground lying vacant should be digged sunshine comes; but let the seed be sown very and thrown up into ridges, to prepare it ready thin. Perennial-rooted flowers at the end of for sowing. Horse-radish should now be planted. the month may be removed from the seed-beds, Hot-beds for cucumbers, melons, and small and the old roots transplanted. Plant anemones sallading, prepare, and have plenty of dung. and ranunculuses. Shrubbery should be digged Sow leeks, and mark some for seed. Plant out over and raked smooth, to destroy the young lettuces from under glasses, if the weather be weeds beginning to shoot; but the trees should mild, and sow the second crop. Give plenty of first be pruned. Shrubs of all sorts should have air to the forced ones. Sow melons at the the suckers taken off, and, if small, be planted beginning of the month for the first crop, and, in beds a foot asunder until they are stronger; when about three days old, plant each in a and any sorts may now be planted. small pot. Plant mint in pots on a hot-bed. Defend mushroot beds from wet. Sow onions at the end of this month or beginning of the next for the general crop: weed those sown in autumn, and plant some for seed. Sow parsley for edgings, and some curled, very thin on a bed, to grow large for garnishing of dishes, and the large rooted. Sow parsnips on ground dig ged very deep. Peas out of the ground should have the earth drawn up to them, as they advance in dry weather, and will require sticking. Sow marrowfats and other large sorts, and the third crop of hotspurs. Plant asparagus for forcing, for the last crop: beans for a third crop: Windsors for the first: cauliflowers from under the glasses: endives for blanching and seed: eschalots, garlic, and rocambole: horse-radish: lettuces from under glasses: leeks, onions, and parsley for seed: potatoes in hot-beds for the first crop. Uncover radishes in mild weather, and put the straw on again at night. Sow fennel. Sow on hot-beds, cauliflowers, celery, cress, cucumbers, melons, mustard, radish, rape for sallads. Sow spinach, the first crop, and hoe the winter crop if it be too thick. Water should be carried away, if it stands after heavy rains, by cutting trenches. Flower garden and shrubbery.-Anemones and ranunculuses should not be deferred planting the first mild weather, or they will flower weak; and the beds should be prepared some time beforehand. Hardy annual flowers, such as sweet-peas, lark-spurs, candy-tuft, alysson, corn-bottles, persicarias, and some few others, may be now sown, and they will flower very early. Auriculas must be defended by mats from wet, the decayed leaves constantly pulled off, and fresh earthed. Box for edgings may be planted in mild weather. Bulbous roots of every kind unplanted should not be deferred the first opportunity which offers of mild weather; and let the beds be thrown up into ridges beforehand. Bulbous roots in boxes, pots, or glasses, require a regular attention to water them; and Fruit garden and orchard.-Apple and pear trees should be finished pruning the first mild weather. Plant cuttings of currants and gooseberries. Prepare grafts of apples and pears. Place hurdles against peaches, nectarines, and apricots, in the beginning of the month; they should be about two feet higher than the walls, that they may be set sloping; and must be fastened with stakes, and remain there till the fruit is set. Sow kernels of apples and pears, for stocks. Planting all sorts of fruit-trees should be finished early in the month, and the roots covered with mulch. Pruning wall-trees should be finished. Strawberries may be planted at the end of the month, and the old beds dressed; those on hot-beds must be frequently watered. Vines, finish pruning before they bleed. Wall-trees, as apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums, pears, should be finished pruning in the month, and those done in October must be examined, and the dead ends cut off. Greenhouse.-Admit air very freely in mild weather. Earth the top of the pots, but first take out the old an inch deep. Fire must be made in foggy weather to dry the house. Leaves this month decay very fast; therefore they will require picking off almost every day, but especially from the geraniums. Myrtles, oranges, winter cherries, and some others, water frequently, but not too much at a time. Succulent plants, as aloes, ficoides, &c., must not have any water given them in this month, for it will cause them to rot. Water the plants which require it frequently, but very sparingly; for too much moisture in the house will injure the plants. Windows may be opened for a few hours in the middle of the day, but should be shut again about two o'clock, or whenever it begins to be foggy. MARCH. The first week in this month, like the last in February, is very valuable to the good gardener and must be used industriously if he would have things in season. Necessary assistance must not be spared. Nature now waits for us, let us not neglect to attend upon her. Kitchen garden-Alisanders sown in autumn, should be hoed to a foot asunder, and more seed sown. Aromatic shrubs and herbs on beds, weed and fresh earth, early in the month; and sow and plant more of all sorts. Dress arti-, chokes, and take the suckers off for a fresh plantation. Asparagus seed must now be sown to raise roots for forcing, and for fresh beds: at the end of about twelve years destroy the old beds, but take up the roots and force them by now and then making one new bed, a constant succession may be kept up in full vigor. Plant out that which was sown last year. Fork up the beds, and rake them smooth, but do not leave the alleys above six inches lower than the top of the bed. Water the Feds in a morning in dry weather, early in the month, with the drainings from a dunghill, to forward them. Make fresh plantations in moist weather. Plant beans for the fourth early crop, and the second of Windsors: cut off the tops of those in flower. Finish sowing beets. Sow boorcole of various sorts for the first crop. Sow broccoli of the early sort for the first crop. Cabbages; sow the third crop of sugarloaf, the second of red, and the first of savoys. Sow carrots now for the principal crop. Sow capsicums, for pickling, on a hot-bed. Cauliflowers must be planted out, leaving two only of the strongest to each glass: draw earth up to the stems, and prop up the glasses. Prick out those sown last month, and sow the third crop. Prick out the last crop of celery from the seed-bed, and sow the second. Chardons must be sown, and cives planted. Prick out the first crop of colewort. Cress, mustard, radish, and rape, may now be sown in the open ground for sallading; and cover the seed for a few days with a mat, or place handglasses over it. Sow cress and mustard very thin for seed. Cucumber beds must be kept to a good heat, by cutting off some around the sides, and adding fresh hot dung instead of it. Plant out the second crop on a fresh bed. About the 20th sow seeds of the Turkey, and some for bell-glasses. Prepare hot-beds for planting cucumbers and melons. Plant Jerusalem artichokes. Sow leeks. Sow kidney-beans at the end of the month, on a warm border. Plant out lettuces, from under the glasses. Sow the third crop of Cos or other sorts. Plant out melons from the first hot-bed. Sow cantaleupes for the second crop, and some on a tan-bed, and for bell-glasses. Mint beds, weed and earth, and plant more. Mushroom beds make for summer use. Nasturtiums for pickling, sow at the end of the month. Carefully weed onion beds before the weeds are high; and finish sowing the principal crop. Sow parsley, both curled and large rooted. Finish sowing parsnips. Earth up peas in dry weather, and stick. Sow the second crop of marrowfats. Plant artichokes, asparagus, beans, cives, cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, lettuces, melons, mushrooms, potatoes, and tarragon. Plant aromatic herbs and shrubs; as balm, camomile, lavender, mint, pennyroyal, rosemary, rue, sage, savory, thyme, &c, Pot and sweet-herbs should now be sown. Slip potmarjoram, savory, and thyme. Weed potatoes, and plant the principal crop. Sow radishes, the fourth crop, and rampions. Sow angelica, basil, borage, burnet, celeriac, chervil, clary, corianders, cucumbers, dill, fennel, hyssop, marjoram, marygolds, melons, purslane, rampions, salsa fy, savory, scorzonera, sea-kale, skirrets, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, thyme, tomatoes. Weed spinach, and sow the second crop. Plant tarragon, and sow tomatoes. Turnips, sow the first crop. Sow water-cresses, in a moist place, or where it may be constantly supplied with waste water from the pump. Destroy weeds while small, which will save future trouble. Flower garden and shrubbery.-Anemones and ranunculuses, if any remain unplanted, must not be deferred longer than the first mild day. Anemones in flower should be covered with mats in windy or rainy weather. Annual flowers which are tender, if sown early in the month, will require a second hot-bed to be transplanted into; and, if not sown, should not be deferred any longer, to have them early and strong. Sow those also mentioned in sect. II. of the general catalogue, on a moderate hot-bed. Annual flowers of all the hardy sorts in the catalogue may be sown about the middle of the month in small patches where they are to remain; hollow the earth out in the form of a basin, fifteen inches over, and an inch deep, and sow the seeds very thin all over it, and not a small patch in the middle, as is too frequently the custom. Auriculas should be removed into the stand, and, if some flat oyster-shells be laid on the earth, they will keep it moist, and save trouble in watering them. Borders of the flower-garden will require to be hoed over or weeded, to destroy weeds which are beginning to shoot, and then raked, that they may appear neat. Box for edgings, in mild weather. Bulbous roots in beds should be covered with mats in rainy or stormy weather, and the earth stirred gently up with the fingers to destroy the weeds; those also in the house must be constantly attended to. Carnations, if not potted last month should be done the beginning of this. Evergreen shrubs, and trees of all sorts, may be planted in mild weather; then cover the roots with turf turned downwards, moss, fern, pea-straw, or some such things, to keep the ground moist, which is better, and gives less trouble than watering. Plant flowering shrubs and forest-trees of all sorts, early in the month, and cover the roots. Grass walks must be swept and rolled. Gravel walks will need turning and rolling, after being weeded, and cleaned from moss with a birch broom. Hyacinths must be covered with mats or canvas, to prevent their flowers from being spoiled, but not kept too close. Larkspurs, in beds or patches, must be thinned and not left nearer than eight or ten inches. Mignonette, sown last month, should be transplanted, and more of it sown. Myrtles, winter cherries, and other hardy greenhouse plants, planted against walls, should have the mats rolled up in fine weather, and the dust washed off from their leaves, but covered again at night. Perennial and biennial flowers must be sown on beds, very thin, that they may be strong; those sown last year should be transplanted, and the old roots of the perennials divided. Plant annuals from the first hot-bed: biennials and perennials from the seed-bcd: evergreens of all sorts: perennials, by dividing their roots, and seedlings of last year's sowing: shrubs and trees early in the month: strawberries and thrift for edging. Shrubberies should be pruned early in the month: the suckers taken off, and planted a foot at least asunder, and the rows two feet apart: the ground hoed or digged, and then raked over, that it may appear neat and clean. Plant strawberries, for an edging to the shrubbery, at six inches asunder; the flowers make a pleasing appearance and afterwards you will have very large fruit by their being in a single row. Plant strawberry trees, against a south wall, which will preserve the flowers, and ripen the fruit. Constantly destroy weeds by hoeing while small, with a Dutch hoe, made to cut both ways, by which method you may always keep your shrubbery in order, with very little trouble. Fruit garden and orchard.-Apricot, nectarine, and peach trees, should have hurdles placed before them, to defend the blossoms from hail; or else stick branches of yew, fern, or fir, amongst them, but hurdles are the best. Fig trees which have mats nailed over them should have them taken away by degrees, by first unnailing them at the bottom, towards the end of the month. Graft trees, and cut down the budded ones. Peach and nectarine trees ought to be finished pruning at the beginning of the month, if omitted till then; the heads of those lately planted should be cut off. Planting of all sorts should be finished at the beginning of the month. Strawberry beds should now be attended to; hoe them first to destroy the weeds, and stir up the earth between them; then spread some very rotten dung and earth over them. Those on hot-beds want frequent watering, and the dead leaves should be constantly picked off, to let the sun come to the fruit. New plantations may now be made. Vines may now be layered draw some strong bearing branches through the bottom of the pot, and plunge the pot into the ground; and then they may be transplanted the next season, and produce fruit the first year; plant cuttings. Finish pruning wall trees, and mulch those lately planted. Greenhouse. Give air freely in the middle of the day, except the wind be very cold. Place geraniums near the windows to prevent their being drawn up weak. Myrtles, winter cherries, and other hardy plants, will want fresh potting, and, if the weather be mild, may be taken out to make more room, but set them in a sheltered place at first. Orange trees, if their leaves be mildewed, will want washing with a sponge and warm water. Those with ill shaped heads should be cut down, and placed on a strong hot-bed. Sow kernels in pots, good strong seed, and, if they are set an inch asunder, they will grow faster. Succulent plants may now have a little water, but not much at a time. Water the plants in the middle of the day, and only when the sun shines; but the water should be set in the house for two or three days to take off the chillness, and use soft water. Windows may be opened for a few hours in the middle of all fine days. APRIL. If by any means the proper early cropping of the ground has been prevented, make no delay to finish and to get the garden into a complete state of cultivation. Let nothing now be met with that appears slovenly or disgusting. Kitchen-garden.-April being the latest time for sowing the principal crops of the kitchen garden, if any thing directed to be performed last month was omitted, or the weather would not permit, let it be done early in this. Aromatic herbs and shrubs of all the following sorts should now be planted, as balm, camomile, pennyroyal, peppermint, spearmint, tansey, lavender, rosemary, rue, sage, southernwood, wormwood, &c. Finish both sowing and planting asparagus early in the month. Let the beds be forked and raked smooth, and watered twice a-week with drainings of a dunghill. Cut off every bud, however small; for, if they be left on, they weaken the others; this method is in general only practised by the London kitchengardeners. Never suffer any weeds to remain after they are an inch high, for they weaken the asparagus very much. Beans in flower should have their tops cut off; and draw the stalks of the first crop close to the wall by strings, and earth them up. Plant the third crop of Windsors. Kale and broccoli should have the first crop pricked out, and the second sown. Cabbages of the early sort should have their leaves tied up to forward their cabbaging. Prick out from the seed-bed the third crop of sugarloaf, the second of red, and the first of savoys. Prick out capsicums from the seed-bed, to prevent their growing weak, upon another hot-bed. Weed carrots, thin the first crop, and sow the second to draw young. Search for caterpillars, upon cabbages and appletrees particularly. Cauliflowers should have the earth drawn up very high to raise the glasses, and a piece of brick put under each corner, and at the end of the month taken quite away. Break down the leaves when the flowers of any begin to appear; earth the second crop, and prick out the third. Celery, prick out the second crop, and sow the third. Sow cress and mustard every week. Cucumber beds must be attended to, and plenty of air given them, when mild; and, if the heat declines, fresh dung must be added to the sides. Make a gentle hot-bed within the ground for those that are to be under bell or hand glasses, and plant them on it at the end of the month. Sow more seed, that you may have plenty of plants. Endive planted out for seed should be earthed up, and the first crop sown. Sow finochio, in drills a foot asunder, for the first crop. Hot-beds for sowing of melons for bell glasses must be prepared, and loam and rotten dung procured, to be ready. Sow kidney beans, the second crop, and the first of the scarlet flowering. Tie up lettuces, to assist their cabbaging; those in beds should be thinned to a foot distance; others planted out, and the fourth crop sown very thin in an airy place. Melon beds will require to be kept up to a good heat, and the second and third crops planted out. Finish making mushroom beds early in the month, which will last till September. Onion beds must be attended to, to keep clear from weeds as soon as any appear, and sow the second crop to draw young. Thin parsley for garnishing dishes, and leave those plants which have the best curled leaves. Sow the large-rooted. Earth up peas frequently, and stick them as soon as any tendrils appear. Sow the third crop of marrowfats. Plant beans and mushrooms. Plant cucumbers and melons on fresh hot-beds. Potatoes should now be finished planting. Pot and sweet herbs may still be sown and planted; and weed and earth the beds. Sow purslane on a warm border in rich earth. Sow radishes for a fifth crop in a cool place. Slip and plant out last year's rosemary, rue, sage, savoy, and thyme. Search often for snails and slugs. Sow aromatic herbs and shrubs. Sow on a hot-bed cucumbers and melons. Sow spinach, the third crop, in a cool place. Turnips, hoe the first crop and sow the second. Weed all the beds of seedlings, while the weeds are small, and any other crops also. Flower garden and shrubbery.—Anemones in stormy weather will still require covering with mats. Annual flowers on hot-beds will require thinning, and some of the strongest must be planted into single pots. Hardy annuals, if not already sown as directed in March, should be deferred no longer, and sown very thin. Auriculas in bloom must be constantly attended to, and defended from violent winds, but yet have plenty of air in mild weather; the seed-beds will want frequent and gentle waterings. Balm of Gilead may be sown or slipped, but the strongest plants will be raised from seed. Biennial and perennial flowers, finish sowing early in the month. Weed or hoe the borders of the shrubbery and flower-garden, and rake frequently. Still plant box for edgings in mild weather. Bulbous rooted flowers, which were planted in boxes or glasses, as soon as the flowers are decayed, should be planted in the ground to strengthen the roots. Carnation seed may now be sown, and stir up the earth frequently of those in pots. Crocus leaves are by many persons cut off; but it greatly weakens the young roots, for the old ones decay, and new roots are formed every year; if they hang over in the walks tie them up in a knot. Finish planting evergreen trees and shrubs, and sow the seed. Grass walks must be swept, rolled, and mowed; if any places be bare, lay down some pieces of fresh turf, or sow some hay seeds. Prepare the ground by levelling, early in the month, where fresh walks are to be made. Gravel walks must be frequently rolled in dry weather, and turned if the top be dirty, but sweep them well first. Hyacinths in bloom, shade with mats or canvas. Kidney beans, with scarlet flowers, will form a pleasing shady walk towards the end of the summer; they must be sown on each side of the walk three or four feet wide, at six inches asunder, and sticks of eight or nine feet long placed to them, or sticks of five feet long will do with some osiers to form the arch at the top. Lark spurs must now be thinned for the last time, and left eight or ten inches asunder; if taken up carefully with a trowel, they may be planted again; by this method the flowers will be strong, and the seed abundant. Layer laurustinuses and various other shrubs, but omit the rose trees till June. Sow mignonette, on a warm border, Myrtles and hardy greenhouse plants against walls, towards the end of the month, may have the mats taken away, and fresh ones planted where necessary. Those from the seed-beds transplanted, and the old roots of the perennials divided. Plant the olive-leaved phillyreas, to make nosegays, as the leaves greatly resemble myrtle. Plant annuals from the hot-beds into pots, and plunge them into another hot-bed: biennials and perennials on the borders: myrtles, heaths, and other hardy green-house plants: hollies and quick for hedges: strawberries and thrift for edgings: shrubs and trees of all sorts early in the month: tuberoses in pots on a hotbed. Water seedling beds of flowers, shrubs, and trees, often, but very little at a time. Shrubberies should be finished digging and raking, and frequently hoed when any weeds appear. Shrubs or flowers in pots are best to be set in pans, which will save much trouble in watering. Sow balm of Gilead in pots: carnations and pinks in boxes or pots: evergreen shrubs and trees: mignonette; scarlet kidney beans: perennial flowers of all sorts: shrubs and trees of every kind on shady borders, or in boxes. Mix seeds which are small, first with some dry earth, that they may not be sown too thick. Sow tobacco very thin in a bed of fine rich earth. Plant tuberoses on pots on a hot-bed. Turf should be finished laying, and often watered in dry weather. Water seedling beds and shrubs lately planted, in a morning, during this month, on account of the frosts. Weeds should be destroyed while very small, to prevent their running up to seed, especially on beds of seedlings. Fruit garden and orchard.-Apricots commonly growing in clusters require to be thinned three different times: as soon, therefore, as they are the size of a horse bean, it is proper to begin. Budded fruit-trees, such as apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, must be examined to pull off all the shoots which come from the stock. Caterpillars may now be readily found in their webs, but more particularly on apple trees. Grafted fruit-trees, as apples, cherries, pears, must often be examined to take off the shoots below the grafts; and replace any clay which has cracked or fallen off. Apply hog's dung to any fruit-trees which are blighted. Take away hurdles when the fruit is set. Finish planting and pruning nectarines and peaches. Planting and pruning should be entirely finished early in the month; and, if any trees be removed so late, it should be those which have been planted in baskets and trained. Search for snails in the holes of walls. Finish dressing and planting strawberry beds, but plant only strong runners of the last year, and at the following distances-for, in general, they are planted too close, which causes the fruit to be mouldy for want of air. On beds, four feet wide, plant four rows one foot asunder, of the scarlet, alpine, wood, and green: hautboys, three rows, at sixteen inches asunder. Bath Chili, Devonshire Chili, Carolina and pine-apple Chilis, three rows, and each plant twenty inches asunder. Chilis, three rows at two feet asunder at least: these are but little known; the Carolina are generally taken for them, which are pale, hollow in the centre, and frequently woolly: when there are three rows, plant them in quincunx order in the following manner : Decayed leaves from the forced ones should be constantly picked off, and frequently watered. Vines should be examined when they first begin to shoot, and all buds pulled off which grow in improper places. Plant cuttings early in the deferred pruning longer than the beginning of month. Wall trees of all sorts should not be the month. Greenhouse. Give air, very freely by keeping the windows open all day, except in storms of hail. American aloes may have water very often, and should be fresh potted. Earth the tops of all the pots, with the compost which each plant requires; and shift those which are in too small pots. Geraniums should be removed as near as possible to the windows, to prevent their being drawn up weak; branches which begin to rot must be cut off, and decayed leaves constantly pulled off. Inarch orange and lemon trees. Constantly pull off decayed leaves from all plants, but especially the geraniums. Myrtles, if prevented from being set out last month, may be removed in this, but should be in a sheltered place. Prune and fresh-pot any plants that may need it. Orange trees must be fresh-potted after the myrtles are taken out; leaves which are mildewed must be cleaned with a sponge and water a little warm, and the stems well brushed. Seeds of any sort which are ripe may still be sown on a hot-bed. Succulent plants will require frequent watering, but give very little at a time. Water the plants only when the sun shines, and keep the windows shut for two or three hours after. Windows may be opened on all fine days, from about nine in the morning till four, except when it hails MAY. Let this delightful month be ushered in with due respect by the gardens being in excellent order, to which end let no help be spared, when the gardener is not competent to perform the work himself. It is often too much for the most industrious man. We now gather vegetables that have stood the winter, and have been the care of many months, with some of the products of spring also. Kitchen garden.-Aromatic herbs and shrubs may still be sown and planted. Artichokes should have the young shoots pulled off, lest they rob the principal one. Asparagus beds ought to be frequently weeded, as it prevents seeing the buds so readily, if the weeds be not pulled up; and in very dry weather watering them will be proper. Beans will require to have their tops cut off as they come into flower, and the earth drawn up to their stems. Prick out the second crop of kale, and be sure to have plenty of plants, for in all long frosty winters its utility is fully proved. Cabbages will often want hoeing and earthing up. Plant the second crop, and the first of red. Sow the fourth crop, and the second of savoys. Cabbage turnips, turniprooted cabbages, American and white Scotch cabbages, and Anjou boorcole, must now be sown; whether they are intended for feeding cattle, or for eating. They are most profitable when very large, therefore sow the seed very thin. Plant out capsicums, where they are to flower, and tomatoes into rich ground, or between be weeded before the weeds overtop them, and the bell glasses of cucumbers. Carrots should readily found in the webs, and particularly on thinned by hoeing. Caterpillars may now be apple trees. Cauliflowers to be cut from October to December and plant out the second crop. Prick out the third crop of celery, and sow the fourth. Plant out the first of coleworts. Sow cress and mustard every week on a cool border; and hoe that which is intended for seed. Cucumbers for the fourth crop may be planted out, and let some be against walls, both for seed and superior flavor. Sow now in the open ground. If plants be attacked with black flies, fumigate them with tobacco smoke. Endive, thin the first crop and sow the second. Eschalots, garlic, and rocambole, may have a for the second. Hoe or weed the beds of beets, few roots taken up for present use. Sow finochio carrots, leeks, lettuces, onions, parsley, parsnips, turnips, &c., and thin them before they are too crowded. Sow kidney beans the third crop of dwarfs, and the second of runners. Thin lettuces in beds, and then sow the fourth crop. Melons on the tan-bed must be thinned. Sow seed for an autumn crop; prick out each into a small pot, as soon as the rough leaves appear. Fumigate with tobacco smoke any that are attacked with red spiders. Mushroom beds will want to a foot asunder, and place some sticks amongst frequently gentle waterings. Thin nasturtiums them to prevent their trailing upon the ground. Those planted for seed will require stakes and strings to support them. Sow the third crop to draw young. thin to eight or ten inches asunder. Sow peas, Parsley for garnishing dishes, the fourth crop of marrowfats, and earth and stick those which require it. Hoe the ground before the potatoes appear. Pot-herbs and sweet herbs in beds must be frequently weeded, particularly seedlings. Prick out from the seedbeds, broccoli, cabbages, kale and melons. Radishes for seed should now be planted. Choose only the straight well shaped ones, and which are of a good color. Sage must still be slipped and planted. Seeds of all sorts nearly ripe will often require staking, and defending from birds. Slugs and snails may easily be found and destroyed after rain, or early in the morning. Sow broccoli, cauliflowers, cucumbers, melons, onions, purslane, and radishes. Sow spinach, the sixth crop, in a cool place. Sow turnips, the third crop, and hoe the other. Water often, in dry weather, beds of seedlings. Weeds of no sort should be suffered to seed, and many sorts when |
